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PCV fitting

Posted By DryLakesRacer 2 Weeks Ago
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DryLakesRacer
Posted 2 Weeks Ago
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I think I found something not mentioned or missed by me when adding a PCV system using the factory fitting that screws into the rear of the valley cover. It hits a dual quad manifold right at the screw that secures it. I’m going cut and make a step in it to keep the tube which is attached to it. I might make another baffle near the bottom too.

Also included in my revision was to replace the right side exhaust manifold to a 57 since it was still a 55-6 while left one was a 57 when I bought the car. I found a perfect one years ago and because I removed the under hood heater parts for an AC unit I thought this was the time to change it too.

Seems there is always something. I’ll post a photo after I get it revised...

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
Daniel Jessup
Posted 2 Weeks Ago
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I am interested in the photo - even the before and after if you have them. I have a 57 dual four barrel intake and the E code valley pan - both parts are just about ready to go, and I was just thinking that I would use the same PCV setup I have on a B intake and regular valley pan with that same rear provision for crankcase fumes. I guess the 57's had the long crankcase ventilation tube that exited at the bell housing? I never have compared but if so it sounds like there is a height difference between that small "teapot spout" PCV adapter and the fitting for the long crankcase ventilation tube?

this is what I have now underneath my B intake...
.http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/bfa7d730-4946-4f38-aa8b-687d.jpg

Daniel Jessup

Loveland, Ohio

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" w00t
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com


DryLakesRacer
Posted 2 Weeks Ago
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Yep that exactly what mine looks like. My intake is an Edelbrock and doesn’t need the dipped valley cover. I test fit my new Blue Thunder and it missed. I just don’t want to give up my dq yet.
I’m going to step it with the tube to the back because of the dq set up. Not much room, hoping to put the valve at the back of the front carb with a 90 degree fitting.
You’ve got to remember these PCV fittings didn’t come until 1962 and dqs were long gone. I remember the breather tube from the rear In 57- up and I thought it was 1” in diameter and it should have been on 57 dq Thunderbirds.
I’m buying a 3/8” and 1/2” diameter fuel lines with multiple bends to make this work. I did the same thing in my sons GMC with 3/2’s on a Howard log manifold and it works perfect with a 65 scrubelle PCV valve. It feeds to the center carb from the oil fill tube on the right side of the crankcase/block.
I’ll have a photo tomorrow if all goes well..

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
Florida_Phil
Posted 2 Weeks Ago
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FYI.  I tried both dual quad and three deuce Edelbrock intakes on my Tbird.  At the time, I still had the stock down draft tube on my engine.  The back of the multi-carb Edelbrock intake contacted the down draft tube, which required cutting a notch out of the top of the tube.


http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/82ad85c1-6def-4eb4-a085-3dd2.jpg

DryLakesRacer
Posted 2 Weeks Ago
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Finished product. Cut with a cut off disc in my 4” grinder. I’m showing it as I made it. I could kept the original top but the metal is stretched pretty thin on the bend. I welded it with my oxy/act unit. Didn’t trust my mig skills and don’t have tig. Steel parts are close to .060” because I had it. A lot of work for something no one will ever see.


56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
Daniel Jessup
Posted 2 Weeks Ago
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Now that looks pretty nice! 

Daniel Jessup

Loveland, Ohio

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" w00t
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com


DryLakesRacer
Posted 2 Weeks Ago
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I’ve completed the engine work and it seems the minor oil leaks have been found and fixed for now. The engine runs great and the UniSyn readings are equal and higher than they have ever been.

The tapped fitting between the 2 carbs is my vacuum source where I’m planning on placing a screw in PCV valve.

I’m wondering from the guys who have installed the valve checked the vacuum “leak” thru the one they installed.

According to every thing I’ve read with the engine running and everything sealed there should be a 2-3 inches of vacuum on the oil dipstick tube which is an ez place to check.

I’ve heard if it can hold a piece of paper on the breather or oil fill tube it was good.


This is the PCV I’m going to use. It’s part number is PV 580 and listed for a 1961-2 Ford or Mercury 292.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
FORD DEARBORN
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The paper trick should work OK if you can get it to seal. That PCV looks just like the original valve that was on my 64 F100 which worked fine.  What I often do to check the system is hold the palm of my hand over the oil filler pipe for about 5 seconds or so. A slight vacuum should be felt and a woosh of air should be heard when uncovering the filler pipe.  Don't forget to block the dipstick tube. BTW, nice work on modifying the PCV hose connector. Hope this helps, JEFF...........


64F100 57FAIRLANE500
DryLakesRacer
Posted 2 Weeks Ago
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Thanks Jeff, I have heard that too. The 2-3 inches of vacuum was off the internet on a conversion made for 50’s GM inline 6 cylinders. The person knew the engineering of the valves and 5”
Is considered too much. I have a vacuum gauge so once it’s on I’m going to tape off the oil fill and give the dipstick hole a try.
I have already added a rubber washer to the dipstick for a seal.
Also thank on the PVC info.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
Florida_Phil
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You guys are great.  I just installed a PCV in my TBird.  I used a Casco kit that uses a PCV in the down draft tube hole in the valley tray and a plate under the carburetor. I was wondering how I could tell if it was working when I read this post. Awesome! 


http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/82ad85c1-6def-4eb4-a085-3dd2.jpg



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