A lot of discussion has taken place here and other places about the issues with "modern" SFI rated oils, and especially synthetics, related to premature cam/lifter failure in flat tappet engines.  As I do more research, I tend to beleive the threat more.... BUT.

I have about 10k miles on my 292.  I broke it in with conventional oil, and after a brief period converted to Mobil 1, and have been running that ever since.  See the problem??  What do I do now?  CW says you cant convert from Synth TO conventional.  Is there a specific additive i should look for?  Is there a synthetic diesel oil that would work instead?  HELP!

Please, any recommendations, and be specific about oils/brands/weights.  I really need the help from all the brain power on this board!!!

THANKS

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

Shell Rotella will lose it's high zinc content after January 2007 in order to conform with Federal Government mandates. Zinc is what keeps flat tappet cams alive. GM makes an additive called "Lifter Prelube" part # 12345501 that according to a recent article in Hot Rod magazine will protect engines running flat tappet cams (that's us) with reduced zinc oils. As stated in the article just add a bottle at oil change and you are good to go.

                                                                         Pete

rgroove,

We are having the same problems here  in Oz. At present I am using Pennzoil 15w 40 with a Comp Cams running -in additive in my rebuilt 292. The old (rebuilt ) 272 that was in my Vicky .lasted about 5000 mile .The cam was totally worn out . .That was a very expensive lesson . I wonder if Shell or Castrol would refund my money for a rebuild ???? A few engine builders I know , have been caught here as well .It seems ALL of the oil companies failed to mention that they removed the zinc ??? The lead has been taken out of the gas , now the zinc has gone from the oil .What next ???

Regards Lon

yblocksdownunder

[quote]petew (12/7/2006)

---

Shell Rotella will lose it's high zinc content after January 2007 in order to conform with Federal Government mandates. Zinc is what keeps flat tappet cams alive. GM makes an additive called "Lifter Prelube" part # 12345501 that according to a recent article in Hot Rod magazine will protect engines running flat tappet cams (that's us) with reduced zinc oils. As stated in the article just add a bottle at oil change and you are good to go.

 So if I understand this correctly, adding a bottle of the GM prelube per Mobil 1 oil change will provide suitable protection?  Is this like an assembly lube?  I would have thought that it shouldnt be run all the time?  Interesting.

So it sounds like I need to buy a bunch of the prelube and add it on every synth oil change?  I guess now I need to figure out if i have trashed my cam by running synth for 9k miles....rat farts.

Thanks to all for the replies very much.  Any other thoughts or advice?  These engines are such a pain to get to the cam/lifters, i really dont want to have to pull it and rebuild them again!!

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

Also, are there any recommendations on oil weight with Mobil 1?  car is only driven in the summer, and I really havent given the oil much thought until now...recommendations on that?

THANKS.  I am always amazed at the expertise and helpfulness here.  I just wish I knew more to contirbute back!

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

This is from the Crane Flat Tappet Break-in Procedure:

"Due to the EPA’s mandate for zinc removal from most motor oils, proper flat tappet camshaft break-in procedure is more critical than ever before. This is true for both hydraulic and mechanical flat tappet camshafts. As a point of interest, the most critical time in the life of a flat tappet camshaft is the first 20 minutes of “break-in” during which the bottoms of the tappets “mate-in” with the cam lobes.

There are some oils with additive packages that are better for camshaft “break-in”. These include: Shell Rotella T oil; Chevron Delo 400; and Mobil DELVAC oil. These oils are listed as diesel oils, but work great for flat camshaft “break-in”. We also recommend the use of Crane Cams # 99003-1 Break-in lube or GM “E.O.S.” (Engine Oil Supplement) Assembly Lubricant # 1052367. These should be poured over the lifters and camshaft prior to start up."

Bruce



1956 Ford Victoria Hardtop



Fort Worth, TX

"Synthetic" Info from Crane:

"At this point the initial “break-in” is complete. You can drive the vehicle in your normal manner. We recommend changing the oil and filter after 500 miles. We strongly recommend mineral oils with flat tappet camshafts to help assure proper lifter rotation.. You might want to put another 5000 miles on the cam before switching to synthetic, if that is your preference."

Full text: http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/548e.pdf

Bruce



1956 Ford Victoria Hardtop



Fort Worth, TX

Doesn't "Rotella" offer a synthetic version with the same high-zinc additive package?

rgrove should stock up on that.



Question: How to tell if Rotella in stores was made before the 1/07 change-over? I doubt they will toss out all existing unsold stock on new years eve!

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Make sure to use a break-in lube..on the lobes and lifters .....that should take care of any problems with premature  wear.....Luck  !!

56 victoria

rgrove,

        GM offers two of these supplements , the pre lube that I mentioned and a product called EOS. The EOS can only be used for initial engine break in and is not advised for use after that. apparently it has an additive package that can cause deposits if used past break in. The 12345501 pre lube can be added at each oil change, this according to the article in Hot Rod. Can you add it to Mobil 1 ? I have no idea. I think our old Y blocks are better suited to a high quality 10/30 or 10/40 mineral oil, my opinion based on what I have read is that most camshaft manufacturers don't like synthetic oils used with flat tappet cams . As was already pointed out lifter rotation is one issue. I currently run Shell Rotella 15/40 in my 292 and I have no issues at all with it plus it is available at Walmart for cheap.

                                                                               Pete