Yes, I have always had amazing results from Synthetic in my cars.  insides of the engine are near spotless, flows well at start up, no measureable wear when ive had it in other engines... Id be hard pressed to give up on it.....Plus, the ability to resisest corrosion during winter storage, etc....

So, is the answer as simple as adding STP oil treatment or that Hughes Oil additive to synthetic at each oil change?  I know people have mentioned the GM EOS, but I would hate to think that my FORD would need anything by GM to survive!!

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

You would think with the synthetic oils being slicker you would'nt even need the zink package.With proper cam breakin I've had less problems with anything going bad including camshafts when using synthetics.I'm looking real hard at the Hughes oil additive just for the fact it seems to be for the flat tappet cams.Unless someone has a better idea other than going back the non synthetic oils what choice do we have?

Gary

-Gary Burnette-

Just out of curiosity, I wonder if any of you guys using synthetic oil have problems with leaks? Can old cork Y-block gaskets really keep it in?



I alway felt the extended additive life of synthetic was cancelled out by the added cost and increased wear that must result by retaining all that dirt the filter can't remove. The much higher price of synthetic would likely tempt you to extend the drain interval.



Though some minor power loss may result with a PCV system, if you are buying synthetic oil and don't have one, you could be guilty of a "cart before the horse" form of false economy.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Don't use cheap cork gaskets,any oil will leak thru that material.I use the stuff from best gasket which is rubber or the composit material similer to what you use to get from felpro.  I see no significant wear using synthetic oil or dirty deposits like you get from regular mineral based oils and thats going 7500 miles between changes including a good K&N oil filter. I do the same with my wifes car only I take it 10,000 between changes including a pureoil filter with no problems at all using 5/30 mobil-1.Her car is a lot newer than mine,(2000 model) and fast approching 100,000 miles. I would not consider puting that in my t-birb.

     No pvc system  in the 56 t-bird,just the breather tube out the rear of the pushrod cover and no leaks here.I do have a small leak out the rear main seal which is a pain in the behind.It has to set a while to leave its small drip calling card. What I like about synthetic oil is after a couple hundred thousand miles the engines in whatever you have still seem to run good while the other parts are wearing out.

Gary

-Gary Burnette-

Hi,  With all this talk about motor oil for the y-blocks was there mention of oil to use for a motor that is old &  hasn't just been rebuilt. I've  been using 10-30 regular motor oil since I bought my car (56 Ford Vic) in 2001 

Good question.

I have a 32,000 original mile engine(never been worked on)in my 56.I've been using Havoline 15-40 in it and am now wondering if I should be something different.

 

Paul,

Boonville,MO

Since you don't have lots of valve spring pressure etcs I wouldn't worry that much about losing your cam or lifters. Being the engine is all original your spring pressure's probably not over 80 or so lbs on the seat closed.If you were to change to synthetic oil I've heard on older engines that they could start leaking oil.I've been told synthetic will clean up the engine on the inside including the seals and thats where the leaks can occur.The sludge buildup on the seals helps to keep them from leaking,clean the sludge off and any seal with any cracks at all well there you go,The Dreaded Marks.That's the only negative I've heard on synthetic oils. I would think you would be allright using the oil you're using now and someone else may have some more ideas we can use.

-Gary Burnette-

I need to restate that  cleaning the sludge off seals in any engine in my opinion is still a good thing.I think keeping engines clean inside is just as inportant as the outside,that being said,then it would not be a negative on synthetic oil.It has been my experience  that oil pressure tends to go up and hold better when using synthetic vs reg mineral oils.Example when using 15/50W modil 1 syn and then Havoline 20/50W the mobil 1 would run an average of 10 lbs more pressure when warmed up in my t-bird cruising.

-Gary Burnette-

Before when I ran a multiple viscosity oil the rear seal leaked like a sieve. I change to straight 30W and it slowed considerably. That is something to consider. My new engine has no seal problem so I'm going to try the Rotella T and see what happens. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I have had the similar experience in reverse. In the past I have gone from 30W in the summer to thinner multiple viscosity (always mineral) in the winter, and small leaks have gotten bigger.

I have been wondering if I should go to a synthetic with the Hughes oil additive. My 312 has about 8,500 miles after a total rebuild, and has always been run on standard oils.