For the harder cam bearing sets, I’ll use the Engine Tech #CC508.  If I know that the cam tunnel alignment is going to be an issue as is the case with many of the ‘ECZ’ 312 blocks then I’ll opt for using Sealed Power, Melling, or Durabond cam bearings as these are much easier to carve on.

I cut all the center cam holes in the blocks with a groove for additional top end oiling.  That's just the way I do it but other ways are also acceptable.  Any excess flow of oil to the top end can be controlled with a restrictor at the rocker arm pedestals if necessary.  As mentioned by others, a groove on the outside of the cam bearing or a deeper groove in the center cam journal also accomplishes the same thing.  There are several fixes for potential top end oiling issues and any one of them gets the job done.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I don’t see any major problems with what you have currently done.  This is not rocket science and because the shafts are easily accessed on the car after it has been run, the oiling to the top end can be easily modified without a lot of difficulty if you don’t like what you see.
 
The rocker arm to shaft clearance is a key player in determining if the overflow tubes are to be retained when using bronze bushed rocker arms.  On my end, 0.002” clearance requires that the rocker arms be pressurized when using the Harland Sharp bronze bushed roller tipped rockers.  As the rocker to shaft clearances becomes larger (~0.004+) then gravity flow comes into play and especially if using a lighter weight oil.  If pressurizing with excessive clearances, then oil flow can become excessive at the rockers depending upon what modifications took place at the cam journal to increase the oil flow to the top end.  It’s not unusual to have to put an oil restrictor in each rocker arm shaft assembly to bring the oil flow back under control.  In these cases, I’ll use a 0.078” restrictor.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Ted, thanks. I think what I'll do is when I get to that point I'll look at the rockers in the other motor and see how they are wearing and make that decision then but I think I will cut the cam groove deeper, up to the spec Phil called out in needed.
Should we get into the "steam" holes. I read your and other's posts about that and some like them but most don't. I'm leaning towards drilling them as they are drilled in my other motor and it stays cool. I do understand these holes don't have much cooling effect, they are more about filling the system. to make sure the system gets full with no air trapped, is that right? Inn my case, the radiator is way above the block so it should fill fine, so maybe I won't drill them.

Just checked, Rock auto has those cam bearings for $27 not bad at all

"elongate that hole"  I see the trough and my block has two holes that drain down to the chain. the holes are at a place that the oil will drain, not sure what you mean.  I don't think I'll do the valley drilling, I don't know of Y blocks wiping cams so that looks like a fix looking for a problem if you know what I mean.

Does anyone know of a supplier for bushings that can be used in the rockers? I guess I could just buy some bronze and make them but if there is a correct one out there I may be able to cut out the hole in some worn out rockers and just push the in.

i have a 292 with drain rocker tubes removed. , came grove enlarged new cm refaced lifters,289 valve seals. i ran the engine hot oil valve covers off,excelent supply of oil.the spinning pushrods cary oil into valley, as well as drain holes under the valve covers each end of the heads. this engine wasfreshend 3years ago and i use it lots in my1949 merchants f47.
my storey is most cam failures on Y blocks was but to poor lub to top end. the289 valve seals do a better job than the seals in oh kits.
no issues with timing chain frame lack of oil. just look at lube system in fes and sb fords 260/289. just my take on how to make aY with minor upgrades will last many miles. i run a 600cfm holley on a 57 4v intake, and dura spark conversion

I have done this modification and it does restore the oil flow going to the timing set that is cut off when the passenger side (right side for the Aussies) rocker shaft overflow tube is eliminated or blocked off.  I’ll add that I do install the ‘early production’ oil trough behind the timing gear set when doing this oiling modification as that trough just insures that more of the oil does gets redirected to the chain rather than slip in behind it.  I’ll credit Tim McMaster for coming up with idea of adding the oil hole behind the cam thrust plate.  Here's a picture of the aforementioned oil trough.
 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Drain any old fuel from the gas tank with any new engine build or any engine that has sat dormant for awhile.  Old fuel can create a ‘varnish’ or a gummy coating on the valve stems and this causes the valves to stick once the engine has cooled after its initial run in.  Bent pushrods are the first indication of this and broken rockers are a real possibility when the pushrods have been upgraded to the stronger tubular styles.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I have had three Y block motors apart and none of them have had that "oil trough" I have seen the threaded hole that mounts it, in fact I first saw one on a thread here and asked what it was.... anyway I don't have one so I have to ask, is the hole worth it if I don't install a "oil trough" And as I have seen most of these holes drilled under the cam plate how does oil come out to do any good? would it be better to drill the hole a little lower?