Not too long ago in another thread there were several comments, if I'm remembering correctly, regarding Penzoil motor oil. I believe someone stated problems holding oil pressure? I usually try to use Valvoline but there is a good sale at a local store on Penzoil 10W40.  Any comments on Penzoil will be appreciated. I tried to find those posts but couldn't. Thanks, JEFF..............


64F100 57FAIRLANE500

YBLocks are solid lifter engines.  They require zinc or ZDDP additive to keep from wearing out the cams. Some people use conventional motor oil and purchase the additive separately.  I use Valvoline Racing oil in my YBlock.  It is made for flat tappet engines. My engine is not raced.  I use this motor oil because it's easy to find and it works.

It was probably me. At one time I owned a 1965 Austin Healy Sprite, A good fun car. It was a weekend and sometimes work because the fuel mileage was great. It alway had great oil pressure at least 20 at idle and 40 running. I changed the oil to Penz and when warm the idle was zero. I had no other explanation so I changed the oil back to Castrol all was normal.
A few years past and my sons friend/neighbor rebuild a Camaro and everything was fine after breakin and a few months of running. After an oil change the father came to me and asked what could be wrong with his sons engine as the oil pressure was not even registering on the gauge and it been perfectly fine. I asked what oil he used and he said Penz.. I said what happened to me and he drained it out. I don’t what he used but problem solved. Neither engine was hurt.
Just my experience, I won’t buy their oil any more.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

I just changed the oil in my 319" Y. I was running Pennzoil 10/40 with 20% Lucas and a Purolator Pur-One filter. No problems with oil pressure.  
This time I used Mobil 1 15/50 which has zinc and a FL1-A. My engine has around 2500 miles on it.. My oil pressure is about 5 psi higher at hot idle now and I can feel the difference in engine freeness and power. Good Stuff!

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Thanks a million everyone it was what I was looking for from previous posts. I'll continue with what has worked for me - Valvoline 10W40, FL1-A and a 4oz bottle of zinc additive fro NPD and call it a summer.  GAGA, what do you mean by 20% Lucas? Is that how you add extra zinc phosphate? I've seen the name on the shelf but never checked it out. Thanks again, JEFF..................


64F100 57FAIRLANE500

Much as with politics, religion, diet, etc., strong opinions re: motor oil are seldom supported by actual evidence.  I used to use a higher viscosity/zinc content blend until I realized that oil flow/wear resistance was more important than pressure/chemical makeup.  My very worn Y-block has been running fine using Penzoil 10W-40 HM.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Go to Wally World (Walmart) and buy their private label oil for diesel engines. This oil is made by a major oil company and has all the zinc our old Y blocks need. Read the label, you'll save $$$$.00
and your engine will be happy.
Tim
Central Florida

HAS ANYONE USED BRAD-PENN 10W-30 IN A  YBLOCK?  IT IS ZINC AND PHOSPHATE ENRICHED FOR FLAT TAPPETS,  FEEDBACK APPRECIATED.. 

O' boy!  Questions about engine oil bring out all sorts of theories & stories & as someone here has pointed out, much of it can't be substantiated.. I used for a while 15-40 Diesel rated oil, because my older engine was obviously somewhat sludged up inside. Likely caused by the previous owners failure to keep the crankcase venting clear. However, our lead moderator, Ted, pointed out that the more extreme cleaning agents found in Diesel oils are likely not the best for steady use in vintage car engines.. (I don't recall his exact words on the matter, maybe he will comment on the subject?) So, after one or two changes I went back to 10-40 regular service oils.  Another what I'll call an oil "phobia"  is the need by many, to run very high oil psi in a street engine.  While there has been problems with top end oiling in older worn or neglected Y-Blocks, the bottom end oiling is about as good as any engine, ever!  High oil pressure or race prepped oil pumps are not needed.  (by the way, the Y-Block is Ford's original "side oiler"). Next, using "racing oil" for the street is not recommended, that's why it's marked "race oil"...  enough said..           


Paul

Jeff, I used 4 qts. of oil and 1 qt. Lucas "Heavy duty oil stabilizer". Maybe you've seen the demo on parts store counters of the clear plastic box of gears and a crank handle? When you turn the crank the product actually climbs the gears. The main reason I used it was to prevent dry starts after storage and because I had read good things about it. I don't know if it contains any zinc phosphate which is why I switched to Mobil 1 15/50 that does. I can tell you that using it turns oil changes into a gooey mess! I still use it in my old Harley that has roller lifters and in transmissions and rear ends.
 I think Brad Penn oil would be a good (expensive) choice too but I like synthetic oil better. I also used Valvoline for years and years with never a problem. 



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