Cliff, If it’s a Peacock blue and White with Torque Thrusts then yes it’s mine. I’ve only missed one since this China Virus started. I’ve got the battery home from our 39 Indian and it might be there this Saturday.

Dearborn, I can’t imagine why but on one of the forums I followed someone posted Valvoline Racing was not good for the street. Can’t remember why but it may have been a longevity deal. I also read somewhere that ZDDP additives will separate over time..so much BS on the net it’s hard to separate the pepper from the fly s**t....

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Good food for thought. It's always more interesting to hear real world testimonial. I think if ALL conditions are correct, like, metallurgy, finish, proper lobe rake, proper crowning, proper heat treating, clearances  etc. etc. etc., quality oil out of the bottle will work. It's the horror stories of folks wiping out cams that has me assuring there is adequate zinc/phophorus in the oil. After all, even if it isn't needed, for little to no effort, why not?  I will add, looking at the Valvoline specification site, the racing oil, VR1, has close to double the zinc phophorus as  Valvoline conventional motor oil. It's probably more a marketing effort that anything else. Or, that marketing may be to target drag vehicles for the VR1, like, not being intended for emission vehicles.  I could probably get by with most any oil in my mild build, but when the valve seat pressure goes way up as reported above, then it becomes more interesting. Stay safe, JEFF............................


64F100 57FAIRLANE500

I agree, on all my stuff I run standard motor oil (engine oil?) and yes I run higher spring pressure (110 on the seat) most of the time Mobil 1 10/30, I may switch to Amsoil, also I have never installed hard seats in the cylinder heads (save for my supercharged bird).

PS Dry Lakes Racer, do I see your car at the doughnut shop in Huntington Beach?

More stories about oil. We all seem to agree with the use of Zinc in our oils. Has ever anyone of you thought about valve spring pressure and it’s roll in this. Most stock engines of this era had about 70 psi and less over time.

My son and I have 2 different style racing engines with flat tappet cams and a minimum of 130 psi on the seat. One cam is steel the others (more than one) are cast iron. Neither one of use has ever lost a cam or lifter and both of us have never used an additive with an oil change. I’ve never added anything even in start up with my steel cam and use Mobil 1. My son uses 15-40 scrubron Delo and new cams get the standard assembly lube on the bearing surfaces and Isky lube on the lobes. Breakin procedures are followed but not with lighter springs.

My last oil change on my 56 Y-292 I bought Lucas 10-30 hot rod oil for the first time all has been well but I would expect nothing different.

Most of the time I overthink everything. Any thoughts? Good luck...

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Thanks for the comment, I'll "read" a container of Lucas when once again, I'm allowed to walk in an auto parts store and not just have to be waited on while in the parking lot like in a drive-in restaurant. Thanks everyone, JEFF...............


64F100 57FAIRLANE500

Jeff, I used 4 qts. of oil and 1 qt. Lucas "Heavy duty oil stabilizer". Maybe you've seen the demo on parts store counters of the clear plastic box of gears and a crank handle? When you turn the crank the product actually climbs the gears. The main reason I used it was to prevent dry starts after storage and because I had read good things about it. I don't know if it contains any zinc phosphate which is why I switched to Mobil 1 15/50 that does. I can tell you that using it turns oil changes into a gooey mess! I still use it in my old Harley that has roller lifters and in transmissions and rear ends.
 I think Brad Penn oil would be a good (expensive) choice too but I like synthetic oil better. I also used Valvoline for years and years with never a problem. 



"FREE SAMPLE"

O' boy!  Questions about engine oil bring out all sorts of theories & stories & as someone here has pointed out, much of it can't be substantiated.. I used for a while 15-40 Diesel rated oil, because my older engine was obviously somewhat sludged up inside. Likely caused by the previous owners failure to keep the crankcase venting clear. However, our lead moderator, Ted, pointed out that the more extreme cleaning agents found in Diesel oils are likely not the best for steady use in vintage car engines.. (I don't recall his exact words on the matter, maybe he will comment on the subject?) So, after one or two changes I went back to 10-40 regular service oils.  Another what I'll call an oil "phobia"  is the need by many, to run very high oil psi in a street engine.  While there has been problems with top end oiling in older worn or neglected Y-Blocks, the bottom end oiling is about as good as any engine, ever!  High oil pressure or race prepped oil pumps are not needed.  (by the way, the Y-Block is Ford's original "side oiler"). Next, using "racing oil" for the street is not recommended, that's why it's marked "race oil"...  enough said..           


Paul

HAS ANYONE USED BRAD-PENN 10W-30 IN A  YBLOCK?  IT IS ZINC AND PHOSPHATE ENRICHED FOR FLAT TAPPETS,  FEEDBACK APPRECIATED.. 

Go to Wally World (Walmart) and buy their private label oil for diesel engines. This oil is made by a major oil company and has all the zinc our old Y blocks need. Read the label, you'll save $$$$.00
and your engine will be happy.
Tim
Central Florida

Much as with politics, religion, diet, etc., strong opinions re: motor oil are seldom supported by actual evidence.  I used to use a higher viscosity/zinc content blend until I realized that oil flow/wear resistance was more important than pressure/chemical makeup.  My very worn Y-block has been running fine using Penzoil 10W-40 HM.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA