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By FORD DEARBORN - 5 Years Ago
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Not too long ago in another thread there were several comments, if I'm remembering correctly, regarding Penzoil motor oil. I believe someone stated problems holding oil pressure? I usually try to use Valvoline but there is a good sale at a local store on Penzoil 10W40. Any comments on Penzoil will be appreciated. I tried to find those posts but couldn't. Thanks, JEFF..............
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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YBLocks are solid lifter engines. They require zinc or ZDDP additive to keep from wearing out the cams. Some people use conventional motor oil and purchase the additive separately. I use Valvoline Racing oil in my YBlock. It is made for flat tappet engines. My engine is not raced. I use this motor oil because it's easy to find and it works.
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By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
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It was probably me. At one time I owned a 1965 Austin Healy Sprite, A good fun car. It was a weekend and sometimes work because the fuel mileage was great. It alway had great oil pressure at least 20 at idle and 40 running. I changed the oil to Penz and when warm the idle was zero. I had no other explanation so I changed the oil back to Castrol all was normal.
A few years past and my sons friend/neighbor rebuild a Camaro and everything was fine after breakin and a few months of running. After an oil change the father came to me and asked what could be wrong with his sons engine as the oil pressure was not even registering on the gauge and it been perfectly fine. I asked what oil he used and he said Penz.. I said what happened to me and he drained it out. I don’t what he used but problem solved. Neither engine was hurt.
Just my experience, I won’t buy their oil any more.
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By Lord Gaga - 5 Years Ago
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I just changed the oil in my 319" Y. I was running Pennzoil 10/40 with 20% Lucas and a Purolator Pur-One filter. No problems with oil pressure.
This time I used Mobil 1 15/50 which has zinc and a FL1-A. My engine has around 2500 miles on it.. My oil pressure is about 5 psi higher at hot idle now and I can feel the difference in engine freeness and power. Good Stuff!
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By FORD DEARBORN - 5 Years Ago
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Thanks a million everyone it was what I was looking for from previous posts. I'll continue with what has worked for me - Valvoline 10W40, FL1-A and a 4oz bottle of zinc additive fro NPD and call it a summer. GAGA, what do you mean by 20% Lucas? Is that how you add extra zinc phosphate? I've seen the name on the shelf but never checked it out. Thanks again, JEFF..................
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By DANIEL TINDER - 5 Years Ago
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Much as with politics, religion, diet, etc., strong opinions re: motor oil are seldom supported by actual evidence. I used to use a higher viscosity/zinc content blend until I realized that oil flow/wear resistance was more important than pressure/chemical makeup. My very worn Y-block has been running fine using Penzoil 10W-40 HM.
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By Tim Quinn - 5 Years Ago
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Go to Wally World (Walmart) and buy their private label oil for diesel engines. This oil is made by a major oil company and has all the zinc our old Y blocks need. Read the label, you'll save $$$$.00
and your engine will be happy.
Tim
Central Florida
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By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
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HAS ANYONE USED BRAD-PENN 10W-30 IN A YBLOCK? IT IS ZINC AND PHOSPHATE ENRICHED FOR FLAT TAPPETS, FEEDBACK APPRECIATED..
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By PF Arcand - 5 Years Ago
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O' boy! Questions about engine oil bring out all sorts of theories & stories & as someone here has pointed out, much of it can't be substantiated.. I used for a while 15-40 Diesel rated oil, because my older engine was obviously somewhat sludged up inside. Likely caused by the previous owners failure to keep the crankcase venting clear. However, our lead moderator, Ted, pointed out that the more extreme cleaning agents found in Diesel oils are likely not the best for steady use in vintage car engines.. (I don't recall his exact words on the matter, maybe he will comment on the subject?) So, after one or two changes I went back to 10-40 regular service oils. Another what I'll call an oil "phobia" is the need by many, to run very high oil psi in a street engine. While there has been problems with top end oiling in older worn or neglected Y-Blocks, the bottom end oiling is about as good as any engine, ever! High oil pressure or race prepped oil pumps are not needed. (by the way, the Y-Block is Ford's original "side oiler"). Next, using "racing oil" for the street is not recommended, that's why it's marked "race oil"... enough said..
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By Lord Gaga - 5 Years Ago
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Jeff, I used 4 qts. of oil and 1 qt. Lucas "Heavy duty oil stabilizer". Maybe you've seen the demo on parts store counters of the clear plastic box of gears and a crank handle? When you turn the crank the product actually climbs the gears. The main reason I used it was to prevent dry starts after storage and because I had read good things about it. I don't know if it contains any zinc phosphate which is why I switched to Mobil 1 15/50 that does. I can tell you that using it turns oil changes into a gooey mess! I still use it in my old Harley that has roller lifters and in transmissions and rear ends.
I think Brad Penn oil would be a good (expensive) choice too but I like synthetic oil better. I also used Valvoline for years and years with never a problem. FORD DEARBORN (4/28/2020)
Thanks a million everyone it was what I was looking for from previous posts. I'll continue with what has worked for me - Valvoline 10W40, FL1-A and a 4oz bottle of zinc additive fro NPD and call it a summer. GAGA, what do you mean by 20% Lucas? Is that how you add extra zinc phosphate? I've seen the name on the shelf but never checked it out. Thanks again, JEFF..................
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By FORD DEARBORN - 5 Years Ago
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Thanks for the comment, I'll "read" a container of Lucas when once again, I'm allowed to walk in an auto parts store and not just have to be waited on while in the parking lot like in a drive-in restaurant. Thanks everyone, JEFF...............
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By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
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More stories about oil. We all seem to agree with the use of Zinc in our oils. Has ever anyone of you thought about valve spring pressure and it’s roll in this. Most stock engines of this era had about 70 psi and less over time.
My son and I have 2 different style racing engines with flat tappet cams and a minimum of 130 psi on the seat. One cam is steel the others (more than one) are cast iron. Neither one of use has ever lost a cam or lifter and both of us have never used an additive with an oil change. I’ve never added anything even in start up with my steel cam and use Mobil 1. My son uses 15-40 scrubron Delo and new cams get the standard assembly lube on the bearing surfaces and Isky lube on the lobes. Breakin procedures are followed but not with lighter springs.
My last oil change on my 56 Y-292 I bought Lucas 10-30 hot rod oil for the first time all has been well but I would expect nothing different.
Most of the time I overthink everything. Any thoughts? Good luck...
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By Cliff - 5 Years Ago
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I agree, on all my stuff I run standard motor oil (engine oil?) and yes I run higher spring pressure (110 on the seat) most of the time Mobil 1 10/30, I may switch to Amsoil, also I have never installed hard seats in the cylinder heads (save for my supercharged bird).
PS Dry Lakes Racer, do I see your car at the doughnut shop in Huntington Beach?
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By FORD DEARBORN - 5 Years Ago
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Good food for thought. It's always more interesting to hear real world testimonial. I think if ALL conditions are correct, like, metallurgy, finish, proper lobe rake, proper crowning, proper heat treating, clearances etc. etc. etc., quality oil out of the bottle will work. It's the horror stories of folks wiping out cams that has me assuring there is adequate zinc/phophorus in the oil. After all, even if it isn't needed, for little to no effort, why not? I will add, looking at the Valvoline specification site, the racing oil, VR1, has close to double the zinc phophorus as Valvoline conventional motor oil. It's probably more a marketing effort that anything else. Or, that marketing may be to target drag vehicles for the VR1, like, not being intended for emission vehicles. I could probably get by with most any oil in my mild build, but when the valve seat pressure goes way up as reported above, then it becomes more interesting. Stay safe, JEFF............................
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By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
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Cliff, If it’s a Peacock blue and White with Torque Thrusts then yes it’s mine. I’ve only missed one since this China Virus started. I’ve got the battery home from our 39 Indian and it might be there this Saturday.
Dearborn, I can’t imagine why but on one of the forums I followed someone posted Valvoline Racing was not good for the street. Can’t remember why but it may have been a longevity deal. I also read somewhere that ZDDP additives will separate over time..so much BS on the net it’s hard to separate the pepper from the fly s**t....
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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I have never lost a cam in one of my engines and I have used every brand of oil you can name. I have probably built two dozen engines in my life, ninety percent of the them had solid lifter cams. I did see a bad cam once in a neighbor's scruby engine. Given that, one can see how there could be so many different opinions on oil. I suspect bad cams happen due to poor installation, incorrect break in procedure or from using used lifters. If the cam in my TBird wore out, it would mean I would have to remove the engine, turn it upside down, buy another cam and a set of expensive lifters I will do anything to keep that from happening. If I had to, I would use $50 a quart oil.
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By FORD DEARBORN - 5 Years Ago
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I only mentioned Valvoline VR1 because of the vast amount more of zinc it contains, like, just for information. I too read somewhere not to use "racing oil" in street vehicles due to short oil life. Of all the engines I built, I lost one cam due to no crown on a new lifter. Something very easy to check, a hard lesson learned thousands of years ago. But back in those days, I believe ZZDP was part of oil formulation. Fast forward to now days and modern synthetic technology, I wonder how necessary this is, except for the purpose of initial break-in. I have to laugh, years ago when I owned, flew and maintained an aircraft, we had these exact discussions about the same exact thing only we called it "hangar flying." Many brands of aviation oil all claiming to be the best thing since sliced bread and yes, there are snake oils offered for aircraft use also.
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By 57RancheroJim - 5 Years Ago
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All oils are formulated differently for different application. When cams started going flat the hi performance cam manufactures blamed the lack of ZDDP in the oil rather then their off shore made cam and lifter blanks. And with a combination of heavy valve springs it was a disaster. I can't remember ever seeing any one with a stock Y loosing a cam, and if they did it was probably from a reason other then oil. Any oil today, even the worst ones have more PPM then the oils of the 50-60s and we didn't lose cams back then. Racing oils aren't formulated for street use, run a race dump the oil, they lack detergents and other chemicals that are formulated into street oils. Some rocket scientist decided that with the panic of less ZDDP that diesel oil would be good to use. Have you ever seen what the high detergents in diesel oil do to cast iron cams, lifters and cranks? They can formulated this way because diesels have steel cams, lifters and cranks..
I personally just use Valvoline 10-30 conventional in all my 50-60 cars and I have never had a problem after countless miles..
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By Lord Gaga - 5 Years Ago
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In the mid 60s I freshened up (hone, rings, bearings, chain) a junkyard 57 Merc 312 to put in my 48 Tudor. That engine didn't have many miles on it but the cam had heavy wear and galling. I was a college student with no money to spare so I pulled cams from used 57 y blocks and every one of them was shot! I gave up and went to a Ford dealership and bought a replacement cam and lifters cheap, 246* duration I believe. A month or so later a friend offered me a new 290* "blower cam" and a pair of G heads with big exhaust valves that turned out to be 56 intakes for $25. I changed cams without changing lifters.
I bored the block .060 and installed 1/4' deflector pistons in the late 70s. The cam and lifters were perfect. I was using Kendall GT oil. After break in on 30wt ND I used 20/50 VR1 for a few years before switching to Mobil 1 15/50. I have dual valve springs and I don't remember the specs, but the cam is still good judging by the valve lash not changing.
I also have read bad things about ZDDP additives. Who knows?
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By FORD DEARBORN - 5 Years Ago
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I think many of these issues may have been true only at the time of discovery. Change one thing with the chemistry or metallurgy and undesirable issue crops up. Then the chemists go back to the drawing board and fix it. An example of this was when Shell Oil tweaked the formula by adding more phophates to their aviation oil, elevated copper levels suddenly appeared in everyone's oil analysis reports. I am remembering this from about 25? years ago. The point is, Shell was quick to address the problem but sometimes past issues never die. A problem is discovered then corrected but the legend lives on forever.
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By Carson - 5 Years Ago
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Greetings , I swear by Brad Penn in my Mummert 292 for the last 13 years .
The motor has finished seven la Carrera Panamericana & four Chihuahua rallies and has never been rebuilt .
These endurance rallies are long 10-12 hrs a day ( LCP = 7 days & CH = 3 days ) and we push all day .
and have managed to always finished 1st or 2nd in class .
see their web site and available thru Summit , Amazon etc
giddyup
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By Tedster - 5 Years Ago
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It would seem an easy inexpensive solution is to use whatever modern oil one prefers, and simply add a small bottle of the ZDDP additives available.
Except, oil engineers strongly caution against aftermarket additives. They point out that motor oil additive packages are carefully blended by the manufacturer, and that third party additives can cause problems.
I've decided not to worry about it, a stock motor as I have w/ OEM camshaft has mild spring pressures and aren't going to have the risk. If it were a problem, it would have shown up by now.
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By Tim Quinn - 5 Years Ago
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You make a good point. Add the zinc to regular oil and ''DON'T WORRY ABOUT IT", like they say in New Jersey and New York !!!!
Late,
Tim
Waiting Room For Heaven, Florida 33706
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By Tedster - 5 Years Ago
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No, just so there's no confusion here what the engineers are saying is adding an aftermarket bottle of miracle zinc to the crankcase may cause more harm than good. We're not oil engineers so we kind of have to take their word for it.
I've been running a stock Y for 20 years now wouldn't it have shown up already?
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By 2721955meteor - 5 Years Ago
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tedster is on the right trail.2years ago i sent 2 members a survey on modern engine oils,a engineer in ca tested many brands of oils results wher interesting. his summary is modern oil for flat tapes lifters are fine for blocks and other flat tappet cams. the hot rod preacher received i package with all the tests. diesel lub is a absolute no fn way for flat tappet cams. it is designed for roller lifter diesel engines using low sulphur diesel. in fact the cat dealer i worked for sent memos to employees do not use rosella t on flat tappet cams(the bulk cans of shell even hade a caution (do not use on gas engines.
most block issues wher from poor oiling to top end. if you have 1/2 the rockers getting little or no lubrication you loos camshafts,wear rockers and rocker shafts. my present 292 with 4vmanifold dura spark sign,many miles blocked bleed tubes at rock shafts,idels hot 20 psi 4000 rpm55psi,engine was freshened 12000 miles ago burns no oil(the od drip from valley cover). used pennzoil 10 40 never had to adjust valves.
OIL IS LIKE RELIGION/ OR POLETICKS EVERY 1 IS A EXPERT. NO 1 WANTS TO READ THE ENGINERS REPORT. JUST COULD NOT STAY OUT OF THIS BULL SHIT ON OILS THAT SAVE THE DAY
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