Tedster, thanks for the feed back!

The 272 has a 270y cam from JM and just doesn’t want to idle below 750, if I go below 750 it stalls. I’m not sure if it’s the cam or if the carb needs tuning? Anyway it seems happy at 750.

The truck is a few more weeks away from being on the road but I’ll keep an ear out for any rattling or pinging. I should mention, the engine has 10-12 vacuum because of the cam. I’ll probably get a vac canister or vac pump to help with the vac assisted brakes, but I’ll see how it drives first.

Haha haha, Kultulz can ride the 59’s and check timing, but no Dairy Queen here in Australia. I think our alternative would be Cold Rock, but they are few and far between.




Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.

Thanks for your 2 cents Jeff.
I can fairly confidently say that noting had changed and the vac line was still intact as I had it timed and running great when on the engine stand, but who knows, something had changed?

Regarding manifold/ported vacuum- I don’t exactly understand but I did read some posts here and the comments were supporting manifold vacuum. Not sure what the difference translates to. I do know with manifold vac the timing jumps up and rpm increases when connected. I had to wind back the throttle screw to bring down the rpm.

All in timing was checked with vac advance disconnected.


Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.

The vacuum advance canister will start to pull in additional timing just about as soon as it comes off factory idle RPM, which was something like 450-550 iirc, even connected to a "spark port". In fact I'm persuaded this is why most people bump up the RPM over factory spec, it smooths out because of the "extra" advance.

I run about 52° BTDC with vacuum advance, indicated on the balancer in neutral in the garage. There is very little load on the engine at cruise on flat ground, but there is some, so the 52° In neutral is not an accurate number when out on the road. Seems to me in stock form the shop manual specs pencil out to 47° or somesuch - but keep in mind these numbers assume the use of a distributor machine.

Vacuum advance is pretty hard to actually measure without one. If you can get more advance than whatever is indicated on the balancer, it will not hurt anything, if it is not rattling or pinging. You would want to achieve the factory spec regardless of what is shown on the balancer in neutral, if that makes sense.

KULTULZ has volunteered in the past to ride in the engine bay with a timing light and check, to provide actual data and the furtherance of Y Block Knowledge. (with the proviso for a visit to Dairy Queen for ice cream afterwards) Sounds fair. If you live close this would be an outstanding idea!

I may be misunderstanding your last post but it looks like your vacuum advance is piped in to manifold vacuum rather than ported vacuum.  Final settings @ 750rpm you stated 10* no vacuum and 20* with vacuum hooked up. Could you have forgot to disconnect the vacuum line and then set the static timing @ 10*before your trip? This would have put the base timing somewhere around 0*.  When you returned from your trip, due to all the pumping and cranking,  the plugs became wet fouled on top of carbon that may have already existed, thus providing a conductive path from center electrode to ground. The "all in at 3000" should be checked with vacuum disconnected because it (vacuum advance) won't be a factor when on the road at 3000rpm and load.  Timing is dependent on many factors but 38* total @ 3000 as you reported in your final settings seems to work for most of us. Just my $.02, JEFF.................


64F100 57FAIRLANE500

Hi everyone,

Thanks for all the suggestions and help on this issue!

I got her started today!
Turns out she just wanted a lot more timing, and I also cleaned up the plugs and the Ctek battery charger worked a treat (12.75v)

What I can’t understand is that I had the timing dialed in and locked down tight before I left. I would have thought it would just kick right over.

Anyway, This is where I’m at.
- 10 deg BTDC
- 750rpm
- 38 all in at 3000rpm
With the vac advance hooked up it reads 20 BTDC at 750rpm and about 55-60 at 3000rpm but the damper degrees only reads to 50.
Previously I did change the MSD springs to get the timing all in at 3000.

If anyone has any suggestions or comment about that timing combo please comment.



Plugs cleaned


Plugs cleaned


No1 plug after 15 min run/idle time.


I still have to get the carb tuned up right.


Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.

Have you checked inside the distributor cap for corrosion, moisture, bent rotor tang, loose wire?  Plug wires completely snug into the cap?  MSD adapter plug for corrosion?  Those plugs look like they really need replacing IMO.  Joe-JDC

JDC

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

I would check compression, maybe the piston rings stuck and compression is low.  If so add some oil to the cylinder and recheck compression. 
Just an idea. 

Located in Harford County Maryland 

i hate to have a negative attitude but is it remotely possible you may have a stuck valve or two?.i hope this is wrong  but it  may be something to think about??

I tried a new battery and got the same result. It was late so I didn’t investigate further but once my batt charger arrives, next on the list will be to clean the plugs (they have only had a hand full of starts), check plug spark, check coil spark and loosen distributor and give it some timing. Oh and give her some love for drylakes, haha!


Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.