Hi everyone,

Thought I’d just throw this out to you guys to see if you might be able to help me troubleshoot my engine starting issue.

So, 18 months ago I dropped the engine (272 y block) into my 59 F100 and connected all the wiring (roughly) and turned the key and she started and ran good. I then went away for work for 18 months. Since I’ve been back I have tidied up the wiring in the engine bay (trimmed everything to length and harness wrapped everything).

I tried to kick it over last night but it flattened my battery after all the cranking. I have new fuel and pressure (fuel tank newly installed the other day), new fuel lines, new filter etc.

Anyway she coughs and splutters like the engine is wanting to start (kind of sounds like its popping and progressively getting faster like it’s about to start but doesn’t)

Can’t figure out why it won’t start, I thought I might have missed a wire when tidying up engine bay but I checked photos from 18 months ago and it’s all the same.

Few things to note (all new 18 months ago)
- new starter motor
- battery is 12.5v (bit low, so I ordered a battery charger to bump it up)
- new MSD distributor and blaster 2 coil
- new plug wires
- Plugs New
- new edlebrock carb
- good earths to block, cab and frame
- distributor hasn’t been touched


Plugs 5 & 6




Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.

Quite a bit could have happened in 18 months. Mostly fuel related if you let ethanol sit that long. I'd say hit the basics on this first - check to see you have FRESH, clean gasoline shooting down the throats of your primaries when you hit the throttle linkage. Look at my post in my personal blog about rebuilding an Edelbrock carburetor after ethanol had done it's dirty work... https://www.hotrodreverend.com/post/2019/04/19/1955-ford-part-75-csi-work-on-the-edelbrock-carburetor-and-ignition. Next, double check your ignition - hot, timed spark to each cylinder? With some of the wiring mods you have done, maybe you have some trouble there but if it is trying to start (sputtering/coughing like you say) then maybe it is a timing issue. 12.5 volts on a new engine with fresh rings, etc, would be a little weak to start an engine - especially if you have any ground issues. (Fresh paint, etc, getting in the way of bare metal contacts) I would say as well that if you removed any of the spark plug wires now would be a good time to double check firing order and especially the timing. And of course the third part of this recipe for each cylinder's consumption of fuel/air to make power is compression. I would think that compression would be the least of your trouble if nothing has been touched. I gave these in order of what I think may be the best plan of attack. 

Let us know what you find

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

I think The HHR advice is right. The plugs look a little dark, but short run time might have done that. The fuel evap in the Edelbrock's have been a problem for me before and worse with ethanol fuel.

Way in the past I had to shut down several gas engines for the winter, some auto sized, some small. I always ran them dry in the fall. In the spring I used a little gas to prime them, cranked them, then used some starter fluid. If there's any spark it'll fire, most of the time that was enough to get them to start. I still do that.

The other thing is a 12.5 volt battery might be showing a lot less voltage while cranking resulting in a weak or no spark. If you can find a helper, try checking the voltage while cranking.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Hi Daniel/Miker

The carby was new 18 months ago, the fuel lines are all new, there is fresh fuel evenly squirting into the primary’s and when I left for the 18 month work contract I drained the carby, so there shouldn’t be any issues there as no fuel was sitting.

I am leaning toward an ignition issue. But I wouldn’t have thought it would have been an issue because the distributor has been locked down tight since the last start. Leads haven’t been removed, literally nothing has been touched.

The new wiring harness was 99% complete prior to leaving, I just had to tidy up the engine bay.

Prior to the tidy up- engine started fine like this.


All the grounds on the car were throughly cleaned last week.

Thanks for the input, I’ll let it digest and come back at it later on.

I will try a fresh battery (the battery came from the engine test stand and has been sitting a long time) and If that doesn’t work, I’ll loosen the distributor hold down and give it some timing. Oh and I’ll clean up the plugs.

Thanks for the help, always appreciated!!!




Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.

I'd pull the coil wire, and check spark to ground while cranking, if it's not blue, then the cranking voltage. You've done everything right to leave it, but low voltage while cranking might be making the spark weak or intermittent. If it was a points dizzy I'd say check for corrosion, but electronics can do weird stuff on low voltage.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

I  agree with Miker.  Check the coil and distributor wires.  Sounds like ignition to me.  I had a similar issue that drove me crazy a few years ago.  Turned out to be a burnt coil wire.  It was touching just enough for the engine to run and sputter.

Those are good pictures of the spark plugs.  Maybe too good as it shows a couple of plugs that are potentially carbon and/or fuel fouled.  If you are attempting to start that engine with 18+ month old ethanol laden gasoline, then that’s also a problem and especially if it is not a premium grade of fuel to begin with.
 
My recommendation is a new set of spark plugs and a fresh load of fuel.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Tongue-in-cheek.... The engine is pissed off at you. You “dropped” it in and then “kicked” it over...Everytime I go near my “mechanical” stuff it knows my attitude. I try to stay positive.
All kidding aside; Since you have a plug out connect it to a wire, ground it and look for a spark. Like others said it be bright. Clean or change the plugs like Ted says. I would even check the spark with a new plug to see if there is a difference from the first test.
It’s just an engine and will be something simple. Good luck...

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

I tried a new battery and got the same result. It was late so I didn’t investigate further but once my batt charger arrives, next on the list will be to clean the plugs (they have only had a hand full of starts), check plug spark, check coil spark and loosen distributor and give it some timing. Oh and give her some love for drylakes, haha!


Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.

i hate to have a negative attitude but is it remotely possible you may have a stuck valve or two?.i hope this is wrong  but it  may be something to think about??