Hello guys. I've already done my first 70 miles with no apparent problem. I would like to know if the carb is properly regulated but I don't know how to do it, what do I have to look at?

While a wide band oxygen sensor would be a nice tool to have to see what the actual fuel mixtures are, I realize that is a piece of equipment that’s not feasible for most hobbyists.  Keep in mind that with only seventy miles on the engine, it’s still breaking in so don’t be making any wholesale changes until you get some more miles on the engine.  If you hear any clatter, pinging and/or detonation, then double check the ignition timing.  It may be necessary to unhook the vacuum advance to the distributor if 'pinging' is evident and examine exactly how much ignition advance is being thrown at the engine.
  
A vacuum gauge will permit you to get the best idle fuel mixture.  Removing and reading the spark plugs after driving the vehicle for awhile will give you an idea of the overall fuel mixture.  As long as the spark plug center porcelains are reasonably clean, your fuel mixture is in the ball park.  If you check the spark plugs after a considerable amount of idle time, I would expect them to look to be on the rich side which would be misleading.
 
Assuming that the color change on the spark plug electrode strap is in the middle or the bottom edge of the bend, your ignition timing is okay.  If the color change on the strap is closer to the centerline of the plug, then you need some additional ignition timing added.  This may require shortening up the lead in the distributor so that the total timing is not altered.  Likewise, if the color change on the spark plug electrode strap is closer to the outside edge of the spark plug, then you need to back the timing up some.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks Ted.
I will wait to have more miles in my truck, at the moment I have only changed the height of the balls in the carburettor tanks. I have not seen detonation noises. On looking at the gap for a good mix, what values ​​should it be in my case?

For carbureted engines with street rated compression ratios, 0.035” is the recommended gap for the spark plugs.  Filing the electrodes back so that the ends are aligned with the centerline of the spark plugs tends to help.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

And about the value with the vacuum gauge for carburettor regularization, what should be the measurement?

thanks Ted. That I have already done so, I followed one of your articles for it.

There's not a specific value you are aiming for as that's simply due to the fact that all engines are not the same when modifications are thrown into the mix.  Here’s the simplified version for your Summit carburetor.  With the vacuum gauge hooked up to a direct vacuum port (intake manifold or any port located below the carburetor throttle blades) and with the engine fully warmed up and at idle, back out both idle mixture screws for the highest vacuum reading.  If you started with both mixture screws at 1½ turns open from the seated position, then work both screws in or out the same amounts.  Once you have done this and obtained the highest manifold vacuum reading, then slowly screw in each idle mixture screw until the vacuum reading just starts to drop off and then just turn each screw ¼ turn out.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Alright thanks, the final quarter turn is to the right or left

is there a better option to connect the throttle?

Raising the attachment point where the throttle linkage connects to the carburetor will have the throttle less sensitive or less twitchy when driving the vehicle.  The vehicles are typically easier to drive with the throttle linkage attached higher versus being closer to the pivot point of the throttle shaft.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)