Please go to Florida_Phil's latest post under 1970 Boss 302 thread.


64F100 57FAIRLANE500

IMO ...

There are many refiners that have released the modified oil for use in older flat tappet engines. TED EATON prefers VALVOLINE. With all the modifications he does and they live, consider that route.

BRAD PENN also  makes a good product, again IMO.

What you have to worry about now is viscosity. Oil does three things mainly, lubricates, cools and cleans/holds suspended particulates. And you have to use a high quality filter, not a WALLY WORLD off-shore version.

EDIT -

Maybe his page will help as I am not a good teacher- https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq

You have to be aware of what you are buying as a true racing oil is meant for a competition engine only, not street, as there may be far less detergent/dispersant packages as race oil may be changed on a much more frequent basis. You need an oil to make the engine live on the street.

____________________________

Mine will be on the road today. Changed the oil/filter yesterday and the body still feels it My Y is a daily driver.

Three things not to do: 1) Never discuss politics. 2) Never discuss religion. 3) Never discuss motor oil.

Four things - Brake Valving

____________________________

Well, here it is as it happened -

Some years ago, the EPA banned zinc/ash formulated engine oil as it damaged the newer line of convertors. For a while there was no suitable oil available until someone realized SHELL ROTELLA could be used as it had the zinc and was rated for gasoline and/or diesel.

Then SHELL changed the ROTELLA formula and removed the zinc. This was for newer diesel (roller and particulate traps). The old product was still available in 5 GAL containers for older fleet use. Not many caught onto this and I tired of the constant food fights.

This is where the old wives tales still come into play. There are now many formulated oils for flat tappet usage.

____________________________

Greetings everyone:  It's not my intention to beat up on anyone but the stated facts about diesel oil are rock solid. Some of the issues with this kind of thing is it takes a very long time for most of us with our classic vehicles to accumulate miles. Where I live I'm limited to strictly summer or maybe we only have time to be weekend warriors. May take a lifetime for the sludge, pitting and other issues related to poor flow to happen. Like, can get away with improper oil usage for a long time.     I must say, this thread reminds me of something a man of wisdom and extreme automotive experience on this forum said a couple years ago. Three things not to do: 1) Never discuss politics. 2) Never discuss religion. 3) Never discuss motor oil.  Everyone have a great Sunday and hope those in the southern states will run their Y-block's today............


64F100 57FAIRLANE500

I agree, NO diesel oil. Thats the problem with the internet, one guy suggest using diesel and it snow balls from there. Oil engineers spend a lot of time and money formulating oils for different applications to meet engine manufactures specs, They aren't one oil fits all. I've seen gas engine cast cranks and cams pitted from the harsh detergents in diesel oil. Most diesel engines have steel cranks and cams.

I agree, no diesel oil in a Y Block.  Wrong formula, and will have long term problems.  Short term might be ok, but read the warnings, and use conventional oil, or synthetic designed for gasoline engines.  Joe-JDC

JDC

re using diesel engine  oil  is not a good idea,modern diesel engines are all roller cams,and most will state  not for gas engines especially  flat tappet cams.when i worked for the cat dealer we had a letter warning about usering rotela t on gas engines with  flat tappet cams. as far as keeping oil bleed tubes insures rockers father from the oil in holes  suffer from low oil flows sluge will form.. withe biger grove in cam and return blocked  all rockers ,and push rides get great oiling,in fact running with covers of the engine rurning  rotating push rides spireles the oil down all pushrods. with 289 valveseals and heads with decent valve to guide clearance  ther wont be any smoke or higher  oil consumption.. just try running a 289/302 with covers of  you will have oil all over the place
 of coarse ther will be lots of different comments . most ys that have camisues  are from poor oil flow to the top end .or the new issue of diesel eng oil designed for modern emission sensitive roller cam engines