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By blocky - 5 Years Ago
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hi all i am hoping someone can help me with a small problem,on my 272 y block rocker shafts i need to know exactly where to point the oil discharge nozzles at the end of the shafts.pointing down the push rod hole or elsewhere cheers
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By Joe-JDC - 5 Years Ago
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The oil holes in the shafts should be on the bottom for the rocker arms to have proper oiling. Slide a rocker arm over and look for the oil hole, and orient the shaft with the hole towards the bottom, and the end holes will be properly aligned. Joe-JDC
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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Routed down push-rod hole(s) -
incorect oil flow for 2772292312 the chart is for a lincon y block
 ... sheesh ...
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By blocky - 5 Years Ago
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thank you so much .
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By 2721955meteor - 5 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (11/11/2019)
Routed down push-rod hole(s) - 
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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You know, it is getting harder and harder to find good help now-a-days ...
CRS - Can't remember shiat-
CHS - Can't hear shiat -
CSS - Can't see shiat
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By blocky - 5 Years Ago
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cheers thank you
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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Here's some info on this subject you may find interesting. When I rebuilt my 292 motor summer before last, I installed a new Isky cam. I checked the center cam journal oil grove depth on the new cam and found it to be .018" deep. We put the cam in a lathe and cut the grove to .030" deep. Upon assembly, we checked the oil flow with the heads off by using a hand crank on the oil pump shaft. Oil immediately shot out of the holes in the block and we were satisfied that oil flow was adequate. On all my previous Y Block builds, I had always pressurized the rockers by closing up the oil drain tubes. With the tubes closed and the cam groove cut deeper, I had too much oil in the top end, To remedy the situation, I bought new oil drain tubes and installed them open in the stock location. This fixed the oil problem and my motor has run perfect since then. My valve covers don't leak and my rockers are well lubricated. I have about 2,000 miles on my new engine and when I checked the valve adjustment last weekend, they did not need adjusting.
I am pleased with the results of cutting the cam grove deeper. I think it's worth the trouble. In my opinion, much better than blocking off the oil drain tubes.
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By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
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While you got a lot of pictures - no one has said where. Yes, down the push rod hole.
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By blocky - 5 Years Ago
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thank you thats what i needed to hear !
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By PF Arcand - 5 Years Ago
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A note on top oiling. According to John at Mummert Machine, all available Y-Block cam blanks have insufficient depth oilling grooves & his shop re grooves all of them. However, I don't recall him suppling a correct groove depth figure? Also, Ted @ Eaton Ballancing, cuts a groove in the block of all his rebuilds to guarantee proper top end oil feed..
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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While you got a lot of pictures - no one has said where. Yes, down the push rod hole.
Well Paul, if you had read the (my) entire post, you would have read where I stated down the push-rod hole(s).
In fact, when properly assembled, their discharge direction has no other routing besides the push-rod hole(s). Here is another picture as you seem to enjoy them so much -
Oil Supply Return Tube - B5A 6588-A - Supt Brkt - 6575)
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By Tedster - 5 Years Ago
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.030" seems to stick in mind.
From my reading, it seems to me the accepted wisdom is the main & cam bearing clearances in large part determine the optimum oil viscosity. I noticed it is common for many people to run high viscosity oils like 20w50 in old motors. This makes some sense in high mileage engines, or maybe racing, but after installing an oil pressure gauge I'm not sure this is necessarily sound thinking in rebuilt, re-clearanced engines or street engines. Oil flow is what we're concerned with here, especially with the Y-blocks and rocker/rocker shafts.
Assuming fresh bearing clearances on the tight side it seems to me with modern synthetics even a 5w30 would be an excellent flowing oil particularly during cold startups where most wear occurs.
So long as there is sufficient hot oil pressure with 5w30, what am I missing? Leave aside for the moment the Zinc or Zddp issue. Synthetics have good film strength and excellent cold temperature pumpability and don't break down under high temperatures. My '64 operator's manual specifies 10w30 "in practically all cases".
Ted, I've read archived posts where you recommend motor oil with a "40" in the designation, is this based on elevated zinc levels in higher viscosity oils?
Here's where I'm goin' with this. With a fresh oil pump my stock Y showed 60 PSI HOT at 2000 RPM and Valvoline 10w40, the spec is 35-55, seems to me a lighter viscosity would actually be preferable in terms of flow; again this question would be without regard to zinc levels.
It is difficult to find an oil that meets all the criteria - and doesn't cost $16 a quart! I remember when we just grabbed a can of Pennzoil in the yellow can and didn't even think about it.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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I got the .030" oil grove depth figure from Mummert. He says he uses that depth for his own cams. Rocker oiling is an issue with YBlocks and I assumed he knows them as well as anyone. Except for cutting the grove to .030", my engine has stock oil supply and return. My understanding is the tubes are there to oil the timing chain and the distributor/cam gear.
I think using heavy oil in a YBlock is a bad idea. If your engine is so worn you need syrup for oil, you probably should fix the problem. I have no opinion on synthetic oil. Modern engines have much tighter clearances. YBlocks are not watches. I use Valvoline 10/30W Racing oil in my engines. It's made for flat tappet engines. Everyone has a different opinion on this.
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By 57RancheroJim - 5 Years Ago
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I'm sure increasing the depth would help but I built my engine with an Isky cam before having this info. I'm running 10-30 and have no problem with enough oil to the rockers. My other Y has a stock 57 cam and oils fine, I don't know what the depth is on the OEM cam..
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By Ted - 5 Years Ago
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Tedster (11/12/2019)
So long as there is sufficient hot oil pressure with 5w30, what am I missing? Leave aside for the moment the Zinc or Zddp issue. Synthetics have good film strength and excellent cold temperature pumpability and don't break down under high temperatures. My '64 operator's manual specifies 10w30 "in practically all cases".
Ted, I've read archived posts where you recommend motor oil with a "40" in the designation, is this based on elevated zinc levels in higher viscosity oils?
Keep in mind that I’m in that part of Texas where the number of days exceeds 100°F for over a month at a time and in a row. There's usually a slight break into the nineties and then back into the hundreds again. And the winters are extremely mild with days being less than 32°F rare. For the more mild climates, I will recommend 5W-30 or 10W-30 weight oil but engine bearing clearances are still the final determining factor for the oil viscosity. I still have a '55 Ford that has been on TropArctic 10W-40 since new and with over a quarter million miles on it now, still runs like a top with good oil pressure. That car was purchased in the later part of 1954 making it an early production model. I looked at the crankshaft when it had 113K miles and it still had the original crankshaft grinding chatter marks on it from the factory and the bearings looked flawless. I can't argue with what works.
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By Tim Quinn - 5 Years Ago
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THE WHICH OIL QUESTION ?????????
Go to Walmart and get the Walmart Brand Super Tech SAE 15W-40 oil for diesel engines.
Plenty of ZINC at a decent price. Comes in quarts and 2 gallon containers.
Works for me,
Tim
Mud Key, FL 33706
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By Tedster - 5 Years Ago
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That might be an excellent choice depending on bearing clearances. I'd like to keep oil pressure on mine in "the zone" so to speak. I ran 10w40 and it read 5 pounds over spec hot. Spec is 35-55 psi at 2000 RPM, right? Using a large face mechanical gauge. I suppose accuracy might be +/- 5 I dunno.
Since the owners manual says 10w30 is adequate in "practically all cases" and figure oil pressure will be at least somewhat compared with 10w40. The point is to have good flow, after all and a thinner oil should flow better? See where I'm goin' with that?
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By 2721955meteor - 5 Years Ago
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re using diesel engine oil is not a good idea,modern diesel engines are all roller cams,and most will state not for gas engines especially flat tappet cams.when i worked for the cat dealer we had a letter warning about usering rotela t on gas engines with flat tappet cams. as far as keeping oil bleed tubes insures rockers father from the oil in holes suffer from low oil flows sluge will form.. withe biger grove in cam and return blocked all rockers ,and push rides get great oiling,in fact running with covers of the engine rurning rotating push rides spireles the oil down all pushrods. with 289 valveseals and heads with decent valve to guide clearance ther wont be any smoke or higher oil consumption.. just try running a 289/302 with covers of you will have oil all over the place
of coarse ther will be lots of different comments . most ys that have camisues are from poor oil flow to the top end .or the new issue of diesel eng oil designed for modern emission sensitive roller cam engines ,
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By Joe-JDC - 5 Years Ago
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I agree, no diesel oil in a Y Block. Wrong formula, and will have long term problems. Short term might be ok, but read the warnings, and use conventional oil, or synthetic designed for gasoline engines. Joe-JDC
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By 57RancheroJim - 5 Years Ago
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I agree, NO diesel oil. Thats the problem with the internet, one guy suggest using diesel and it snow balls from there. Oil engineers spend a lot of time and money formulating oils for different applications to meet engine manufactures specs, They aren't one oil fits all. I've seen gas engine cast cranks and cams pitted from the harsh detergents in diesel oil. Most diesel engines have steel cranks and cams.
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By FORD DEARBORN - 5 Years Ago
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Greetings everyone: It's not my intention to beat up on anyone but the stated facts about diesel oil are rock solid. Some of the issues with this kind of thing is it takes a very long time for most of us with our classic vehicles to accumulate miles. Where I live I'm limited to strictly summer or maybe we only have time to be weekend warriors. May take a lifetime for the sludge, pitting and other issues related to poor flow to happen. Like, can get away with improper oil usage for a long time. I must say, this thread reminds me of something a man of wisdom and extreme automotive experience on this forum said a couple years ago. Three things not to do: 1) Never discuss politics. 2) Never discuss religion. 3) Never discuss motor oil. Everyone have a great Sunday and hope those in the southern states will run their Y-block's today............
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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Well, here it is as it happened -
Some years ago, the EPA banned zinc/ash formulated engine oil as it damaged the newer line of convertors. For a while there was no suitable oil available until someone realized SHELL ROTELLA could be used as it had the zinc and was rated for gasoline and/or diesel.
Then SHELL changed the ROTELLA formula and removed the zinc. This was for newer diesel (roller and particulate traps). The old product was still available in 5 GAL containers for older fleet use. Not many caught onto this and I tired of the constant food fights.
This is where the old wives tales still come into play. There are now many formulated oils for flat tappet usage.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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Three things not to do: 1) Never discuss politics. 2) Never discuss religion. 3) Never discuss motor oil.
Four things - Brake Valving
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By 57RancheroJim - 5 Years Ago
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FORD DEARBORN (11/24/2019)
Greetings everyone: Everyone have a great Sunday and hope those in the southern states will run their Y-block's today............ Mine will be on the road today. Changed the oil/filter yesterday and the body still feels it  My Y is a daily driver.
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By BamaBob - 5 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (11/24/2019)
Well, here it is as it happened -
Some years ago, the EPA banned zinc/ash formulated engine oil as it damaged the newer line of convertors. For a while there was no suitable oil available until someone realized SHELL ROTELLA could be used as it had the zinc and was rated for gasoline and/or diesel.
Then SHELL changed the ROTELLA formula and removed the zinc. This was for newer diesel (roller and particulate traps). The old product was still available in 5 GAL containers for older fleet use. Not many caught onto this and I tired of the constant food fights.
This is where the old wives tales still come into play. There are now many formulated oils for flat tappet usage.
KULTULZ
In your opinion, what are the top three motor oils for use in our Y-Block engines? For those of us who are not so informed on the various characteristics of the many oils available, it would be a big help to us to just have a list of the best oils to use. Since I am not so oil knowledgeable, I trust the opinion of those that do have the knowledge and experience. Thanks for everybody's help!
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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IMO ...
There are many refiners that have released the modified oil for use in older flat tappet engines. TED EATON prefers VALVOLINE. With all the modifications he does and they live, consider that route.
BRAD PENN also makes a good product, again IMO.
What you have to worry about now is viscosity. Oil does three things mainly, lubricates, cools and cleans/holds suspended particulates. And you have to use a high quality filter, not a WALLY WORLD off-shore version.
EDIT -
Maybe his page will help as I am not a good teacher- https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq
You have to be aware of what you are buying as a true racing oil is meant for a competition engine only, not street, as there may be far less detergent/dispersant packages as race oil may be changed on a much more frequent basis. You need an oil to make the engine live on the street.
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By FORD DEARBORN - 5 Years Ago
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Please go to Florida_Phil's latest post under 1970 Boss 302 thread.
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