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mac
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Hello, 

I have a 1964 f100 with a 292/3 speed. I've had it for a few years and it's usually been pretty reliable, I drove it a lot. Last summer it started dying on me and wouldn't restart. After a few tows home and some tinkering it hasn't started since last October. Spark is orange. Cold compression numbers are between 90 and 140, most are around 120. It cranks strong, but it doesn't even try to start. 
I have: 
Rebuilt the autolite 2100 
New fuel pump/lines/filter: the carb shoots fuel into the venturi 
New spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor and I have tried two different Accel coils and it has a new points eliminator. 
I have checked ignition timing. 

I'm at my wits end here and have lost motivation to work on it in defeat. Thanks in advance for any ideas 

Dan



oldcarmark
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Spark and Fuel should get  some kind of Reaction. Have U tried pouring a little Gas from another Source down the Carb? Maybe its water in the Gas from a bad Batch of Fuel?

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/b9ec8c4e-313b-486f-b1b0-422e.jpg http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/a82cee8f-be33-4d66-b65d-fcd8.jpg  
KULTULZ
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Rebuilt the autolite 2100 
New fuel pump/lines/filter: the carb shoots fuel into the venturi 
New spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor and I have tried two different Accel coils and it has a new points eliminator. 
I have checked ignition timing. 


I assume you have installed an ACCEL kit? When was this done?

1) Confirm TDC
2) Recheck IGN wires order
3) Confirm VOLT from IGN SW and/or STARTER RELAY


W (BY GOD) V - EASTERN PANHANDLE
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charliemccraney
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If the gas is from last October, it needs to be drained and fresh gas used.

Compression is good.  If the gas  is good, then the carb is at least working well enough for the engine to fire.  An orange spark indicates a problem.  It should be blue.  Most people either don't read instructions or don't understand  the instructions for points eliminator kits.  Make sure it is wired correctly.


Lawrenceville, GA
KULTULZ
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Most people either don't read instructions or don't understand  the instructions for points eliminator kits.  Make sure it is wired correctly.


How True ...


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oldcarmark
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mac (10/13/2019)
Hello, 

I have a 1964 f100 with a 292/3 speed. I've had it for a few years and it's usually been pretty reliable, I drove it a lot. Last summer it started dying on me and wouldn't restart. After a few tows home and some tinkering it hasn't started since last October. Spark is orange. Cold compression numbers are between 90 and 140, most are around 120. It cranks strong, but it doesn't even try to start. 
I have: 
Rebuilt the autolite 2100 
New fuel pump/lines/filter: the carb shoots fuel into the venturi 
New spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor and I have tried two different Accel coils and it has a new points eliminator. 
I have checked ignition timing. 

I'm at my wits end here and have lost motivation to work on it in defeat. Thanks in advance for any ideas 

Dan




Yellow or Orange Spark is a Weak Spark. Should be a sharp  Blue Color to indicate a good Spark.. Are You sure the Accel is wired correctly?

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/b9ec8c4e-313b-486f-b1b0-422e.jpg http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/a82cee8f-be33-4d66-b65d-fcd8.jpg  
mac
Posted Last Month
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Normally aspirated

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It's wired correctly. I have had the Accel points eliminator for about 5 years. I have confirmed TDC with the valve cover off and checked the firing order. I just rebuilt the carb so it has fresh gas that  I squirt in from a bottle. I have 12v at the coil (no ballast resistor) and I made sure I have continuity from the negative on the battery to the block and the coil so I think I have a good ground. Is there a test I could run to figure out if the the problem is in the primary or secondary? I wonder if the coil would put out a blue spark if I held it to ground? 
KULTULZ
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I have a 1964 f100 with a 292/3 speed. I've had it for a few years and it's usually been pretty reliable, I drove it a lot. Last summer it started dying on me and wouldn't restart. After a few tows home and some tinkering it hasn't started since last October. Spark is orange.


So the system has been in the truck for five years? Are you using an ACCEL COIL or another style? Is the coil rated for no external resistor? What happened prior to it's beginning to fail? If at any time you used a coil calling for an external resistor (or resistor wire in harness) you may have damaged the module.

As mentioned the spark should be blue and hot. Check + VOLT @ BAT + post and compare what you have between that and the + terminal of the coil  with IGN SW on (no start). Again, check volt @ coil  while attempting to start (crank).

Test for spark at the spark plug(s) also. You are using ACCEL cap and rotor?


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mac
Posted Last Month
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Normally aspirated

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I converted to the Accel 2020 points eliminator 5 years ago and used an Accel 8140 coil, with no ballast resistor. 2 months ago I decided to try a new 8140 coil and Accel 2020 to eliminate them as the cause, so they are new. I know I have battery voltage at the coil. I will have to have someone crank the truck to check for cranking voltage at the coil. 

The original problem that took it off of the road was it would shut off randomly after getting good and hot (a half hour drive) and not restart. I noticed the coil was getting VERY hot so I figured my 8140 coil was failing and replaced it. 
KULTULZ
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I converted to the Accel 2020 points eliminator 5 years ago and used an Accel 8140 coil, with no ballast resistor. 2 months ago I decided to try a new 8140 coil and Accel 2020 to eliminate them as the cause, so they are new. I know I have battery voltage at the coil. I will have to have someone crank the truck to check for cranking voltage at the coil. 

The original problem that took it off of the road was it would shut off randomly after getting good and hot (a half hour drive) and not restart. I noticed the coil was getting VERY hot so I figured my 8140 coil was failing and replaced it.


OK, your setup appears correct according to ACCEL INSTRUCTIONS.

One thing I do not understand is that the module uses a remote GRD rather that the OEM GRD @ the breaker plates. There is no reference I have seen in the instructions as to whether to keep or defeat.

At this point I would contact their TECH LINE as there is something going on that I cannot pull out. 

When you checked the spark intensity through the grounded coil wire, was the engine cranking or running? You have no TACH hookup on the circuit, correct?

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/27d68ea2-d39a-4c2f-86eb-6e1c.jpg


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