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Sandbird (11/10/2019)
Every one that's trouble shot automotive electrical problems develop their own methods that work for them but are confusing to others. To level the playing field and start from ground zero I have to agree with Gene's previous suggestion that the points ignition should be re-installed to see if the car is capable to run. Still requires 12 Volts from Solenoid Terminal to initiate starting the Motor. 6-7 Volts won't do it. Solenoid no good I think.
 
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oldcarmark (11/10/2019)
Battery Voltage of 12.4 is very low for a fully charged Battery. 13-13.5 is more realistic. Voltages north of 13 are typical for a battery holding a "surface charge", after recent use in a running engine. Standard lead-acid, the old fashioned kind with filler caps for watering, have an open circuit voltage of 12.65 volts at 77° F. "Maintenance Free" 12.80 volts. If his battery is the latter type it is getting low.
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We both touched on this topic to sniff around the solenoid. The OP jumped the car with a known good battery and did all the tests per factory service manual for the primary ignition which were completed . Just thought it would be simple to try the points ignition and see the results.
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If you hot wire the ignition by connecting a jumper wire from the battery positive directly to the coil positive you will eliminate the primary wiring, solenoid, ballast resistor, and ignition switch. If you haven't already disconnect the tach. That leaves the Accel 2020 and coil which is enough to run the ignition. if it starts you will have to remove hot wire from the battery to shut engine off'. Make sure it's out of gear hand brake on and wheels chocked.
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