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charliemccraney
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Group: Moderators
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Yep, resistance of some kind should be used and none is. There is a whole paragraph at the beginning of the instructions explaining that a resistor must be used. Link to instructions: https://documents.holley.com/accel_instructions_points_eliminator_kit_ford_2020.pdf
Lawrenceville, GA
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Sandbird
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
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The Accel instructions shows fig. # 3 wiring diagram using resistance wire along with Accel performance coil 8140. All three wiring configs show resistance used in all of the examples. The instructions seem to have contradictions and there is mention of damage to the 2020 from over voltage. I would install a new 2020 using a ballast resistor and be sure to use the thermo conductive grease as it will help dissipate heat. I would continue to use the ground to the engine block. I think overheating has been your problem.
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KULTULZ
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
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Make sure the remote ground is good. I did not see in the INSTR what ACCEL wanted done with the OEM GRD. Did you remove it? Maybe reinstall as there can't be too many GRD's. Is your system GEN or ALT? Also, read the INSTR as to TACH circuit. PERTRONIX had a problem with this also.
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mac
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 5 Years Ago
Posts: 20,
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I suppose I could try lifting the remote ground and putting it directly to the breaker plate. There is a tach in the circuit. It won't start so I was checking spark intensity while cranking.
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KULTULZ
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
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I converted to the Accel 2020 points eliminator 5 years ago and used an Accel 8140 coil, with no ballast resistor. 2 months ago I decided to try a new 8140 coil and Accel 2020 to eliminate them as the cause, so they are new. I know I have battery voltage at the coil. I will have to have someone crank the truck to check for cranking voltage at the coil.
The original problem that took it off of the road was it would shut off randomly after getting good and hot (a half hour drive) and not restart. I noticed the coil was getting VERY hot so I figured my 8140 coil was failing and replaced it.
OK, your setup appears correct according to ACCEL INSTRUCTIONS.
One thing I do not understand is that the module uses a remote GRD rather that the OEM GRD @ the breaker plates. There is no reference I have seen in the instructions as to whether to keep or defeat.
At this point I would contact their TECH LINE as there is something going on that I cannot pull out.
When you checked the spark intensity through the grounded coil wire, was the engine cranking or running? You have no TACH hookup on the circuit, correct?
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mac
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 5 Years Ago
Posts: 20,
Visits: 106
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I converted to the Accel 2020 points eliminator 5 years ago and used an Accel 8140 coil, with no ballast resistor. 2 months ago I decided to try a new 8140 coil and Accel 2020 to eliminate them as the cause, so they are new. I know I have battery voltage at the coil. I will have to have someone crank the truck to check for cranking voltage at the coil.
The original problem that took it off of the road was it would shut off randomly after getting good and hot (a half hour drive) and not restart. I noticed the coil was getting VERY hot so I figured my 8140 coil was failing and replaced it.
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KULTULZ
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 1.7K,
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I have a 1964 f100 with a 292/3 speed. I've had it for a few years and it's usually been pretty reliable, I drove it a lot. Last summer it started dying on me and wouldn't restart. After a few tows home and some tinkering it hasn't started since last October. Spark is orange.
So the system has been in the truck for five years? Are you using an ACCEL COIL or another style? Is the coil rated for no external resistor? What happened prior to it's beginning to fail? If at any time you used a coil calling for an external resistor (or resistor wire in harness) you may have damaged the module.
As mentioned the spark should be blue and hot. Check + VOLT @ BAT + post and compare what you have between that and the + terminal of the coil with IGN SW on (no start). Again, check volt @ coil while attempting to start (crank).
Test for spark at the spark plug(s) also. You are using ACCEL cap and rotor?
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mac
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 5 Years Ago
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It's wired correctly. I have had the Accel points eliminator for about 5 years. I have confirmed TDC with the valve cover off and checked the firing order. I just rebuilt the carb so it has fresh gas that I squirt in from a bottle. I have 12v at the coil (no ballast resistor) and I made sure I have continuity from the negative on the battery to the block and the coil so I think I have a good ground. Is there a test I could run to figure out if the the problem is in the primary or secondary? I wonder if the coil would put out a blue spark if I held it to ground?
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oldcarmark
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mac (10/13/2019)
Hello, I have a 1964 f100 with a 292/3 speed. I've had it for a few years and it's usually been pretty reliable, I drove it a lot. Last summer it started dying on me and wouldn't restart. After a few tows home and some tinkering it hasn't started since last October. Spark is orange. Cold compression numbers are between 90 and 140, most are around 120. It cranks strong, but it doesn't even try to start. I have: Rebuilt the autolite 2100 New fuel pump/lines/filter: the carb shoots fuel into the venturi New spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor and I have tried two different Accel coils and it has a new points eliminator. I have checked ignition timing. I'm at my wits end here and have lost motivation to work on it in defeat. Thanks in advance for any ideas Dan Yellow or Orange Spark is a Weak Spark. Should be a sharp Blue Color to indicate a good Spark.. Are You sure the Accel is wired correctly?
 
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KULTULZ
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
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Most people either don't read instructions or don't understand the instructions for points eliminator kits. Make sure it is wired correctly.
How True ...
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