Back in the day when these engines were built, there were no rubber gaskets or silicone sealer.  They used cork gaskets and "Monkey Snot".   Monkey snot is 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive. To properly use this adhesive, coat both sides, let dry to the touch and put the gasket in place. You can glue an oil pan in place with this stuff.  If you use new cork gaskets and this adhesive, the gasket won't move around and you won't have leaks.

i always put a bead of silicone on top of gasket and dont have leaks

As far as leaking around the perimeter of the valley cover, I don’t have much issue there as long as the cover is straight (not warped) and not over-tightened during installation.  I do a put thin bead of RTV on both sides of the gasket but  I also use the Best Gasket valley cover gaskets exclusively at that location which is a black fibrous material.  Those particular gaskets tend to conform to any irregularities in the cover much better than the rubber gaskets.

It’s the later model valley covers where the oil fill tube is crimped in place rather than being welded where I have seen problems with oil leaks.  For those, I’ll take a piece of 1½” I.D. pipe slipped over the outside of the tube and then use a hammer on the bottom side of the cover to further crimp the tube to the cover to insure a tighter seal.  Brazing the tube to the cover in those instances would also be an option.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

hi all just a small problem on a rebuilt y block ,the valley cover started to leak on one of the back corners after running for about 20 minutes . the cover is straight as it was checked before fitting but here is my problem.i used a rubber gasket instead of cork and now wish i did not . any body had a bad experience like that or am i just real lucky?? any comments would be welcome.

thank you so much to one and all useful info thank you again

But try to remove the gasket if you have to take the cover off.

My solution to the problem is to get Mummert's valley cover.  Got one on two cars.

The other solution is to drill holes on the cover and block at the corners (threading the block holes).





54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

A lot of the time you can bend the cover on installation , just gotta be mindful 



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

I used Permatex number 2 (non hardening) sealer on the block and cover. Worked great but when the RTV came out I switched as it works as good, is easier to apply, and, to clean off my fingers.

R


1936 Ford 3W Coupe : 56 T-Bird 312, 47 Packard 3 speed, 40 juice brakes.
1968 Merc Cyclone FB GT 390, Getting a better front clip!
1977 Ford F-250 Supercab RWD Explorer Long box.
1976 Chev Camaro RS LT
Future rebuild : 1949 Ford F-1

thank you all advice taken with thanks

On topic with valley covers... does anyone know if Mummert's valley cover will allow a 2x4 intake? Is the recess deep enough? Any aftermarket covers have a deep enough recess?

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com