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By blocky - 5 Years Ago
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hi all just a small problem on a rebuilt y block ,the valley cover started to leak on one of the back corners after running for about 20 minutes . the cover is straight as it was checked before fitting but here is my problem.i used a rubber gasket instead of cork and now wish i did not . any body had a bad experience like that or am i just real lucky?? any comments would be welcome.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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Back in the day when these engines were built, there were no rubber gaskets or silicone sealer. They used cork gaskets and "Monkey Snot". Monkey snot is 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive. To properly use this adhesive, coat both sides, let dry to the touch and put the gasket in place. You can glue an oil pan in place with this stuff. If you use new cork gaskets and this adhesive, the gasket won't move around and you won't have leaks.
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By darrell - 5 Years Ago
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i always put a bead of silicone on top of gasket and dont have leaks
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By Ted - 5 Years Ago
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As far as leaking around the perimeter of the valley cover, I don’t have much issue there as long as the cover is straight (not warped) and not over-tightened during installation. I do a put thin bead of RTV on both sides of the gasket but I also use the Best Gasket valley cover gaskets exclusively at that location which is a black fibrous material. Those particular gaskets tend to conform to any irregularities in the cover much better than the rubber gaskets.
It’s the later model valley covers where the oil fill tube is crimped in place rather than being welded where I have seen problems with oil leaks. For those, I’ll take a piece of 1½” I.D. pipe slipped over the outside of the tube and then use a hammer on the bottom side of the cover to further crimp the tube to the cover to insure a tighter seal. Brazing the tube to the cover in those instances would also be an option.
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By blocky - 5 Years Ago
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thank you so much to one and all useful info thank you again
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By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
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But try to remove the gasket if you have to take the cover off.
My solution to the problem is to get Mummert's valley cover. Got one on two cars.
The other solution is to drill holes on the cover and block at the corners (threading the block holes).
Florida_Phil (9/24/2019)
Back in the day when these engines were built, there were no rubber gaskets or silicone sealer. They used cork gaskets and "Monkey Snot". Monkey snot is 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive. To properly use this adhesive, coat both sides, let dry to the touch and put the gasket in place. You can glue an oil pan in place with this stuff. If you use new cork gaskets and this adhesive, the gasket won't move around and you won't have leaks.
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By Talkwrench - 5 Years Ago
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A lot of the time you can bend the cover on installation , just gotta be mindful
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By Robs36Ford - 5 Years Ago
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I used Permatex number 2 (non hardening) sealer on the block and cover. Worked great but when the RTV came out I switched as it works as good, is easier to apply, and, to clean off my fingers.
R
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By blocky - 5 Years Ago
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thank you all advice taken with thanks
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By Daniel Jessup - 5 Years Ago
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On topic with valley covers... does anyone know if Mummert's valley cover will allow a 2x4 intake? Is the recess deep enough? Any aftermarket covers have a deep enough recess?
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By Robs36Ford - 5 Years Ago
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It might but STRONGLY discouraged as the intake will overheat and crack the bottom at the exhaust crossover.
Mummert's site :" WILL NOT FIT ECG9424D Intake manifold (1957 E-CODE 2-4's )"
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By Robs36Ford - 5 Years Ago
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A quick search of the internet gives this:
http://www.rexhp.com/valleycovers.html
Claims they are the only ones to make one ?? ?
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By MoonShadow - 5 Years Ago
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Most finned valley covers can be milled down in the center to allow the use of the dual quad intake.
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