There is an interesting read on page 39 of Hemmings Classic Cars, Oct.2019 issue. A reader rubs Cyclo belt dressing into his brake linings with a 'dramatically improved stopping power" (his words).  There should be some interesting comments about this in the Dec. 2019 issue. 

Paul.. Over the weekend I took the Ford out driving stop n go for 10 miles each way. I could not even touch the plastic adjuster knob on the proportioning valve it was so hot. I wish I would have had my temp gun. On Sunday I found Prestige Thunderbirds near me had the longer ones. I bought one this morning ($25) and painted it with BBQ's black hi temp and installed... Thanks again for the tip.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

...front end is the problem. We dont have scrap yards full of US Granadas, early Mustangs or Falcons so if there is some way to change 5 lug stuff in front, Im listening.

I'm sorry. I did not understand you have a donor.

The only thing I can suggest is to inspect how the ball joints are fastened to the control arms on either car, The F/L arms are longer (wider car). If you can attach the V8 F/L joints to the FALCON control arms, that should allow you to use the F/L spindle. You then should be able to retain the FALCON steering. Check 6-cyl tie rod ends to V8 spindle also. You may have to mix and match.

Don't forget the F/L MC and if the rear brakes from the F/L not used, your brake bias will be off.

Sorry about that.

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Thanks Paul it's something to watch. Since there was nothing on the stock one and it's farther away than the T-Bird I'm hopping not to have a heat problem. When I was installing the master I noticed it was held on by 4 cap screws. When purchasing the the brake line and extra line nuts I purchased two 5/16" SAE studs and put them in the lower factory nuts with jam nuts inside the car on the MC/pedal bracket. Made the installation of the MC and prop bracket much easier. I left them long in case I needed a heat shield. Thanks again...JD

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Drylakes - if it will fit the Wildwood master, CASCO has an extra long heat shield for underneath.  It was designed for two bowl masters.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Finished the installation of the Wilwood kit. Made one error with the Master Cylinder by not getting the "eye" for the pedal on the correct side of the arm but since the adjustable rod I purchased was for a Mustang on Wilwoods suggestion I was able to take it apart and move it without moving the MC. I would suggest anyone doing this to measure the center of the eye to a flat spot on the old MC and setting the new MC and rod to that measurement. It came out with in one turn of the "free play" needed on the pedal for me. The Mustang adjustable pedal rod must be places behind a washer on the MC behind the C-clip so there is no chance of it coming out.

All the lines worked out well for me by bending up the inner fender panel by removing 3 flanged cap screws. I used both stock 56 tees and just one 3/16" brake line plug. The picture might show the 10 psi rear brake valve coming straight out of the adjustable proportioning valve I purchased wit the M/C. ( It's red)  I only needed to make 2 short 3/16" brake lines both under a foot leading to the tees. I have an Eastwood double flare tool that's work its weight in gold at about $200 which has been used for years on many cars. I made an aluminum plate and painted it black to cover where to top 2 holes of the stock MC bolted on.

One other thing is when you think the line flange nut are tight....tighten them again....and then one more time... I'll bet there will still be one weeper.

Wife sat in the car as we bled the brakes, shes a great sport about it and been my help for 53 years only getting a break when the son was living at home. I'm still playing with the adjustable prop valve but real close. The brakes work great with so far with less foot pressure than all drums, and since I added the 8.8  rear end with self adjusting 11" drums I'm gad I won't need to adjust brakes again. You might remember I didn't want a power unit.For me the kit was a good buy; it's made local for me and I bought all thru Summit. Wilwood answered my calls 3 different times before I purchased with questions...

 


That's a refection from the camera on the inner fender  ^^^^ where it screws on.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

We dont have scrap yards full of US Granadas, early Mustangs or Falcons so if there is some way to change 5 lug stuff in front, Im listening.

The 6-cyl spindle is very weak in that early FALCON. The only way I see out of it is the later V8 suspension/brakes. I understand your lack of parts. It is getting scarce over here also.

The only thing I can think of is to solicit on-line yards here for the possibility of a complete take-off here and then shipping across the pond. I used to exchange with a fellow in Sweden I think it was that would take orders and fill a container in Newark for shipping to Europe to cut costs. I think it was a EURO car club. Many year ago.

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Fairlane's whole 8 inch rear will fit Falcon with some modification but front end is the problem. We dont have scrap yards full of US Granadas, early Mustangs or Falcons so if there is some way to change 5 lug stuff in front, Im listening.



Hyvinkää, FI

If you want to upgrade a 62 FALCON 6-cyl (US) to a V8 brake system, you will have to go with 63/64 FALCON V8 front brakes/spinde and suspension, not FAIRLANE.

If you want rear V8 brakes, you will need a FALCON V8 rear assy - 8".

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Is there anyway to adapt '63 V8 Fairlane front drum brakes to '62 six Falcon?


Hyvinkää, FI