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By LordMrFord - 5 Years Ago
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We got a plan to take 4000 km cruise in fjord-Norway in next summer with our 62 Falcon manual shift (no Y) and I never drove in mountains so should I change disc brakes at front? Twenty kilometer down hill with drum brakes sound like a suicide to me.
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By MoonShadow - 5 Years Ago
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Millions of cars drove for millions of miles without the front disc brakes. If the brakes are in good condition and properly adjusted you should have no problems. I would do a service check on them before you go. The biggest problem on the downhill's are a tendency to overuse the brakes and get them heated. This can lead to boiling brake fluid and blown out wheel cylinders and brake shoes. On the long down hills use a lower gear and do not keep your foot on the brake. You can apply them rather firmly and then lift off of them for a while. If they start to smell hot find a place to pull over and let them cool down.
Disc brakes are much better on the long hills because they have more stopping power on the front and also dissipate heat quicker than drums. With normal informed driving practices you should not need them but if you want to swap them out it is a better option. I run all drum brakes on my 56 Vicky.
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By Talkwrench - 5 Years Ago
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use your gears.. IF your drum brakes are well adjusted and as they should be you should have no issue.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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I have a related question. I am not a professional mechanic, but I have done a number of brake jobs on my own cars over the years. When I rebuilt the drum brakes on my 1955 TBird, they didn't work that well. I considered upgrading to disks. Since then, the drum brakes seemed to steadily get better. It's like the shoes and the drums needed time to adjust to each other. I assume this is normal? Is there a way to avoid this and keep the drum brakes? Are there high performance brake shoes that will stop better than auto parts shoes?
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By 57RancheroJim - 5 Years Ago
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Years ago when you bought brake shoes and had the drums turned they would arc the shoes to fit the drums, not many places you can get that done anymore so it takes miles before the shoes wear in to match the drum radius and have full contact. Also brake shoe material today isn't the same, no more asbestos. I use to run GreyRock semi metallic but those haven't been available for a long time. I don't know of anyone who makes a hipo shoe today.
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By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
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Probably the only way you might get a performance oriented shoe is to send them out to a company that relines brakes.
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By Tedster - 5 Years Ago
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Drum brakes on all 4 corners aren't as good as discs, the main problem generally is that the knowledge base for installation and setup isn't what it once was. If they are setup right they work OK, I don't have a problem with them. Often the assemblies the new components themselves are installed on are usually in need of repair by now. The drum backing plates for example. There are 3 raised flat surfaces that each shoe rides on and slides or rotates on, with long use these pads become gouged and the shoes may no longer retract smartly or even stick. Old hoses limit the return of fluid.
High performance brake linings may not be what you want. This type of material is designed for racing or similar activities and won't provide decent stopping power till they achieve very high temperatures.
As mentioned oversize linings used to be sold, for a close initial fit with drums that had been turned oversize, and then the shoe linings were arc'd on a machine for a full contact patch with the drum surface. There are some ways around this, careful attention to the front axle brakes are important because it is responsible for roughly 70% of the stopping power.
There is also a break-in or "bedding in" procedure for any new brake lining. They need to get hot. Really hot, so's you can smell 'em hot. There are resins and binders that need to be burned off, basically. Ironically a long downhill stretch is probably the best way to achieve this.
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By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
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High performance street materials should not require high temperatures to work. It's stuff that is designed for track use that requires that. I've seen warnings on track use items that said effectively if you use this on the street, you will die, paraphrased, of course. I'd be surprised if anything like that exists for drum brakes. As usual, if there is any doubt, check with the manufacturer or supplier.
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By LordMrFord - 5 Years Ago
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So rebuild drums and dot 5.1 fluids should do the thing?
If I swap the eight inch rear end from my 63 Fairlane with five lug pattern, I have to think, what to do with my front brakes... we dont have our scrapyards full of old US granada stuff so expensive front disc kit might be the only easy way.
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By Daniel Jessup - 5 Years Ago
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While I have not had my 55 Fairlane down any mountain roads yet, I am impressed by the upgrade of using a power brake booster on my original brake setup (turned drums and new brake shoes, new master cylinders, new hoses, etc). Especially in stop and go traffic, the interstate, etc. I cannot believe the price of getting an original drum for these cars, crazy stuff. The more I drive the car the more I think that when I wear out the front drums I will go with disk brakes up front. This is the last time I can turn those drums.
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By miker - 5 Years Ago
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This is from a truck site, and the term “snub braking” wasn’t used then. But this is how I was taught to use drum brakes on a long downhill run. It was also how they taught the bus drivers on the hills of Seattle. Back in the 60’s, when disc were a new deal and not on most vehicles.
I’ve also made the mistake of trying to use racing linings on disc on the street. Cold, they don’t work all that well.
http://www.dieselhub.com/towing/snub-braking.html
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By MoonShadow - 5 Years Ago
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My dad was a multi million mile truck driver starting in the 1930's and on into the 60's. He lived through a period of the expansion of the trucking industry and the development of brakes to match. He taught me the "snub" brake method although he never called it that. I've used it all my life including years of towing travel trailer and car trailers. I've had hot brakes but they have never failed. With larger trailers I've always had trailer brakes and use them in conjunction with the vehicle brakes to assist in braking. The snub braking works for me. Reducing gears at the top of the hill is also a requirement that isn't mentioned in the article. For long declines it is a life saver. I've pulled trailers through the mountains of Colorado and California without any problems this way.
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By montana ford man - 5 Years Ago
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I’ve driven truck since 1974 and about 25 years in a logging truck. When going down hill in the mountains just drop the transmission into a lower gear and let the compression do the braking. If you ride the brakes,they will get hot and start fading until you dont have any braking anymore.in your situation I wouldnt worry, your car should be more than adequate to handle any mountain roads. Unless you are pulling a heavy trailer ,your car is just fine.btw Ive never drove a big truck that didnt have drum brakes.
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By PF Arcand - 5 Years Ago
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It doesn't appear that anyone makes a complete front disc brake kit for mid 50's Fords. Still requires searching around in Salvage Yard for some parts. In the case of '57 cars, the 14" wheels also create a road block. Read that kits that fit the original wheels have small inadequate calipers.. So, now the wheels (& tires?) have to be replaced also... Anyone here know different?
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By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
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At least for the 54-56 Fords, there are aftermarket disc brake kits available. I know the Tbird suppliers carry them for the 55-57 Birds, which have the same front end as the 54-56 sedans. There is a company in Connecticut that has kits for just about every Ford ever made. Engineered Components Inc (ECI)
PF Arcand (7/10/2019)
It doesn't appear that anyone makes a complete front disc brake kit for mid 50's Fords. Still requires searching around in Salvage Yard for some parts. In the case of '57 cars, the 14" wheels also create a road block. Read that kits that fit the original wheels have small inadequate calipers.. So, now the wheels (& tires?) have to be replaced also... Anyone here know different?
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By Rono - 5 Years Ago
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I have an ECI under floor Brake and clutch set-up on my 37 Ford coupe project and it is a quality set-up. I also have Drop and Stop disk brake set-ups on both my 56 wagon and 56 Customline. Yes, these kits do use Granada spindles that are reamed out to accept your stock tie rod ends, but they work just fine in my opinion.
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By miker - 5 Years Ago
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Several years ago I helped put a 14” wheel disc brake kit on my buddy’s 56 Nomad. Wheels, brakes, etc. are pretty much the same for 50’s cars. The disc and calipers are noticeably smaller than 15” for obvious reasons. They work just fine on a street car, given the car is mostly used empty, and doesn’t tow a trailer. They might work fine under those conditions, I don’t know. But for street driving, even with a lot more power than stock, they’ll lock the front brakes for a panic stop. He’s running a little more wheel and tire than stock, and new radials. He was happy.
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By PF Arcand - 5 Years Ago
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Miker: Interesting, because another source warned me away from the small "foreign" calipers to fit 14" wheels. Said they were disappointed in their performance... I've forgotten, are Granada/Monarch wheels for front Discs 14" ?.. In my opinion (for what that's worth) the old brake shop practice of always turning drums with every brake job was in many cases unnecessary. If they weren't scored, simply deglazing them would likely have been just fine..
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By miker - 5 Years Ago
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Paul, like I said it was several years ago and the brakes were part of a complete front end rebuild. New A arm bushings, the works. If I were to guess, I’d say the calipers were probably the GM “metric” style, small ones. As was mentioned above, the pads that come with the kit can be a big difference in performance. That was true when I did the front on my bird back in 1999.
These worked out fine, and a Nomad isn’t a light weight car.
Back in my younger days I was told that if I was making a lot of panic stops and having fade problems, it was a driving problem not a brake problem.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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...are Granada/Monarch wheels for front Discs 14" ?
The GRANADA/MONARCH had 14" wheels.
What you have to watch for is rotor size. The 6-cyl used 10" while the 8-cyl used 11".
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By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
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I just purchased a kit from Wilwood with 4 piston front discs + a Wilwood MC for my 56. Seems like any thing for a Mustang would fit a Falcon since they are on the same platform. Drop-N-Stop is no longer due to health reasons. Too bad as he understood Fords from 49-63.
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By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
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Started the Wilwood installation with their Master Cylinder. This will be non-power; with all I've talked too with upgraded rear drum brakes this should work fine for me. The removal and install went right with their instructions. I know it will be tight working on the lines from the MC to the tees.  
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By LordMrFord - 5 Years Ago
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Is there anyway to adapt '63 V8 Fairlane front drum brakes to '62 six Falcon?
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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If you want to upgrade a 62 FALCON 6-cyl (US) to a V8 brake system, you will have to go with 63/64 FALCON V8 front brakes/spinde and suspension, not FAIRLANE.
If you want rear V8 brakes, you will need a FALCON V8 rear assy - 8".
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By LordMrFord - 5 Years Ago
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Fairlane's whole 8 inch rear will fit Falcon with some modification but front end is the problem. We dont have scrap yards full of US Granadas, early Mustangs or Falcons so if there is some way to change 5 lug stuff in front, Im listening.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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We dont have scrap yards full of US Granadas, early Mustangs or Falcons so if there is some way to change 5 lug stuff in front, Im listening.
The 6-cyl spindle is very weak in that early FALCON. The only way I see out of it is the later V8 suspension/brakes. I understand your lack of parts. It is getting scarce over here also.
The only thing I can think of is to solicit on-line yards here for the possibility of a complete take-off here and then shipping across the pond. I used to exchange with a fellow in Sweden I think it was that would take orders and fill a container in Newark for shipping to Europe to cut costs. I think it was a EURO car club. Many year ago.
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By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
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Finished the installation of the Wilwood kit. Made one error with the Master Cylinder by not getting the "eye" for the pedal on the correct side of the arm but since the adjustable rod I purchased was for a Mustang on Wilwoods suggestion I was able to take it apart and move it without moving the MC. I would suggest anyone doing this to measure the center of the eye to a flat spot on the old MC and setting the new MC and rod to that measurement. It came out with in one turn of the "free play" needed on the pedal for me. The Mustang adjustable pedal rod must be places behind a washer on the MC behind the C-clip so there is no chance of it coming out.
All the lines worked out well for me by bending up the inner fender panel by removing 3 flanged cap screws. I used both stock 56 tees and just one 3/16" brake line plug. The picture might show the 10 psi rear brake valve coming straight out of the adjustable proportioning valve I purchased wit the M/C. ( It's red) I only needed to make 2 short 3/16" brake lines both under a foot leading to the tees. I have an Eastwood double flare tool that's work its weight in gold at about $200 which has been used for years on many cars. I made an aluminum plate and painted it black to cover where to top 2 holes of the stock MC bolted on.
One other thing is when you think the line flange nut are tight....tighten them again....and then one more time... I'll bet there will still be one weeper.
Wife sat in the car as we bled the brakes, shes a great sport about it and been my help for 53 years only getting a break when the son was living at home. I'm still playing with the adjustable prop valve but real close. The brakes work great with so far with less foot pressure than all drums, and since I added the 8.8 rear end with self adjusting 11" drums I'm gad I won't need to adjust brakes again. You might remember I didn't want a power unit.For me the kit was a good buy; it's made local for me and I bought all thru Summit. Wilwood answered my calls 3 different times before I purchased with questions...
That's a refection from the camera on the inner fender ^^^^ where it screws on.
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By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
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Drylakes - if it will fit the Wildwood master, CASCO has an extra long heat shield for underneath. It was designed for two bowl masters.
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By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
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Thanks Paul it's something to watch. Since there was nothing on the stock one and it's farther away than the T-Bird I'm hopping not to have a heat problem. When I was installing the master I noticed it was held on by 4 cap screws. When purchasing the the brake line and extra line nuts I purchased two 5/16" SAE studs and put them in the lower factory nuts with jam nuts inside the car on the MC/pedal bracket. Made the installation of the MC and prop bracket much easier. I left them long in case I needed a heat shield. Thanks again...JD
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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...front end is the problem. We dont have scrap yards full of US Granadas, early Mustangs or Falcons so if there is some way to change 5 lug stuff in front, Im listening.
I'm sorry. I did not understand you have a donor.
The only thing I can suggest is to inspect how the ball joints are fastened to the control arms on either car, The F/L arms are longer (wider car). If you can attach the V8 F/L joints to the FALCON control arms, that should allow you to use the F/L spindle. You then should be able to retain the FALCON steering. Check 6-cyl tie rod ends to V8 spindle also. You may have to mix and match.
Don't forget the F/L MC and if the rear brakes from the F/L not used, your brake bias will be off.
Sorry about that.
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By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
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Paul.. Over the weekend I took the Ford out driving stop n go for 10 miles each way. I could not even touch the plastic adjuster knob on the proportioning valve it was so hot. I wish I would have had my temp gun. On Sunday I found Prestige Thunderbirds near me had the longer ones. I bought one this morning ($25) and painted it with BBQ's black hi temp and installed... Thanks again for the tip.
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By Philb - 5 Years Ago
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There is an interesting read on page 39 of Hemmings Classic Cars, Oct.2019 issue. A reader rubs Cyclo belt dressing into his brake linings with a 'dramatically improved stopping power" (his words). There should be some interesting comments about this in the Dec. 2019 issue.
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