Hi all, i have a similar problem with my gauge as the sensor unit is not working ,can you advise what i need to replace it with, its for a 57 fairlane 292. are these senders unique to this engine or will others fit ? .I wont get one off the shelf here im sure..

THE PICTURE  OF INTAKE IS EXCELENT IDEA, I DID MYN BUT THE MANIFOLD IS THIN AT THAT POINT,WOUND UP REMOVING MANIFOLD AND SILVER SOLDERING TO STOP LEAKAGE. manifold came from arizona ,no antifreeze with lots of water erosion.

How would that work?

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Let me try again-

To achieve what the OP wants to do is either drill and tap the intake for another sender,



or, make a modification in the WP By-Pass Hose to accept a sensor adapter (have to fabricate). The first photo I showed was just a random example. FORD used the below style on the 58/59 FE -



The OEM gauge sender will stay on the cyl head.

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my take was the fitting would go in the hot side of the heater hose,not the bypass

That fitting will be too long to fit in the bypass hose of a Y.


Lawrenceville, GA

GOOD IDEA but won't be corect when heater valve is closed,i have used a simler setup that ts below heater valve as you stated that  is the best aria for real eng. temp 

I believe FORD ENGINEERING placed the FY COOLANT TEMP SENSOR where they did because of the possible area overheating caused by placing the exhaust valves side by side on the center cylinders (TED will correct me if I am mistaken here).

In a more normal cooling system, the proper place for the sensor will be directly behind the coolant thermostat. Your wanting to run two gauges will present a problem as the OEM and aftermarket sensor/gauge will have different calibrations (cannot be placed in same position unless two holes are provided) so a second location needs to be used.

This is a inline fitting (the 1958 FE used a similiar setup) that will allow the sensor to be placed in the WP bypass hose -

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The stainless bolt kit I used had both flat and lock washers. I agree taking the temp at the pump is almost worthless.

My objective was to run both the dash gauge and the SW gauge I have under my dash.  This seemed like the easiest solution.  The dash gauge is worthless as far as I am concerned, but I wanted it to work nevertheless.