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WATER TEMPERATURE GAGE

Posted By 55charliebird 6 days ago
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55charliebird
Posted 6 days ago
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ON THE NEW HIGH OUTPUT WATER PUMP THERE ARE 2 CONNECTION PORTS.  ONE IS FOR THE HEATER CONNECTION AND THE OTHER ONE (DRIVER SIDE) IS WHERE I WANT TO SCREW IN A ROUND FACE HOT WATER TEMPERATURE GAGE TO READ THE WATER TEMP.  HAS ANYONE DONE IT AND WHICH BRAND DID YOU GET.  DOES IT WORK.  I INTEND TO KEEP THE ELECTRICAL DASH UNIT ALSO.  THANKS, CHARLIE.
Florida_Phil
Posted 5 days ago
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What I did was screw the stock dash gauge temperature sending unit into the driver's side of the water pump and the aftermarket gauge sending unit into back of the head with an adapter.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/3afd7d7f-60ee-4485-a4ac-6465.jpg
55charliebird
Posted 5 days ago
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Why did you do that?  I want both so that I can keep an eye on it while I'm under the hood and the dash unit as a backup, comparing one against the other.  I suspect the engine gets hotter back by the rear cylinders. I see that you use flat washers under the lock washers,  Why.  I like the idea.
pegleg
Posted 5 days ago
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Actually the water temp will be higher at the front of the head. Water in the heads flows toward the radiator. Where you have it will only tell you the temp coming OUT of the radiator.



Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 


Gene Purser
Posted 5 days ago
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I agree with pegleg, the sensor in that part of the water pump will monitor the cooled water from the bottom of the radiator. That is good if you want to monitor the efficiency of the radiator, but not much use as an indicator of your actual engine temperature. 
miker
Posted 5 days ago
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I drilled and tapped my Blue Thunder intake on the water passage behind the tstat on the drivers side. Ran a little gauge there for some time. It’s now the temp sender location for the EFI. Got to have the manifold off, there’s not a lot of room and some senders or gauges might not clear inside. Probably easier is to just buy an infrared thermometer. Even the cheap ones from Amazon read within a degree of the much more expensive Fluke meters my neighbor the HVAC guy uses. More than close enough for a cooling system. There is a temp difference between the back of the head (factory) and the front of the intake, as mentioned above. You’ll see it with the infrared unit.

miker
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Florida_Phil
Posted 5 days ago
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My objective was to run both the dash gauge and the SW gauge I have under my dash.  This seemed like the easiest solution.  The dash gauge is worthless as far as I am concerned, but I wanted it to work nevertheless.
57RancheroJim
Posted 5 days ago
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55charliebird (6/9/2019)
Why did you do that?  I want both so that I can keep an eye on it while I'm under the hood and the dash unit as a backup, comparing one against the other.  I suspect the engine gets hotter back by the rear cylinders. I see that you use flat washers under the lock washers,  Why.  I like the idea.
The stainless bolt kit I used had both flat and lock washers. I agree taking the temp at the pump is almost worthless.

KULTULZ
Posted 5 days ago
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I believe FORD ENGINEERING placed the FY COOLANT TEMP SENSOR where they did because of the possible area overheating caused by placing the exhaust valves side by side on the center cylinders (TED will correct me if I am mistaken here).

In a more normal cooling system, the proper place for the sensor will be directly behind the coolant thermostat. Your wanting to run two gauges will present a problem as the OEM and aftermarket sensor/gauge will have different calibrations (cannot be placed in same position unless two holes are provided) so a second location needs to be used.

This is a inline fitting (the 1958 FE used a similiar setup) that will allow the sensor to be placed in the WP bypass hose -

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/0a75b3c9-292d-48bc-8faf-21d1.jpg






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2721955meteor
Posted 5 days ago
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GOOD IDEA but won't be corect when heater valve is closed,i have used a simler setup that ts below heater valve as you stated that  is the best aria for real eng. temp 


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