bought a US Radiator about 7 years ago. It was a 3 row heavy duty copper, brass type for my 1956 Ford Crown Victoria. About a year ago it developed a signiicant leak at the top core tank seam and was repaired by a local radiator shop. Now it has developed another leak at the upper hose fitting. I paid about $450 for the radiator. I will have it repaired again.

If i have to end up replacing the radiator, what would be the best option for the money? Aluminum or copper/brass? best brand for less than $500.

Just have it checked and repaired again ..   its not that old , but a good radiator place should give you an honest appraisal. 



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

I bought a radiator from US radiator and spoke to their representative when I picked it up.  they do both copper/brass and aluminum.  I asked the difference.  The rep told me that the aluminum models are lighter but are more difficult to repair  he also said that copper/brass is superior in heat dissipation.  He recommends sticking with the copper/brass.  

Danny.. I have the identical radiator to you and it's 6 yrs old. It's never been a problem but the US that was in it when I bought it did exactly the same thing; it was a slightly different model and I wanted more. It too was fixed by a local shop and boxed up as a spare.
What pressure cap do you use? I've stayed with the stock 7 pound but the guy before me had 13/15.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

I had a 13 psi when the first leak occurred. I replaced it with a 7 psi and developed a second leak.

If originality is important to you, I would stick with the stock type radiator. If not, a modern three row aluminum radiator is a better choice in my opinion.  My 1955 Thunderbird had a stock radiator when I bought it. It overheated in the slightest traffic.   I replaced the radiator with a $200 Champion aluminum radiator and electric fan.  You can not make my TBird overheat even in the heat of a Florida summer.  It runs at 180 degrees and stays there.  I would never go back.

I too bought a US Radiator brass replacement that lasted about a year before it started leaking at the seam at the top tank. I drive my 56 Victoria every day and had put about 7000 miles on it. I had it repaired locally and ran a 7 lb cap instead of the 13. Wasn't long before is began to leak at the top seam in another place and I had it fixed again . Soon after it began to leak again and I decided on advice from a friend who collects 55-56 victorias to try an aluminum replacement from Auto City Classic. What I appreciate is the die stamped upper and lower tanks that gives the original look that looks like the TBird radiators of the time.It fit with no modifications and 2 years later I have no regrets. Price was $229 and much cheaper than the $450+ I spent on US Radiator.

I have One of these also. Nice that the Top Tank looks close to original Appearance. I got a can of Black High Temp Barb B Q Paint and Painted complete Rad. Now it would pass to the Casual Observer as being Original. I know it will not Dissipate Heat as good as it would if left unpainted but I will live with that. Added a 6 Blade Fan and high flow 170 Thermostat. Should be fine. 

  

Oldcarmark,

Actually (from research studies done by General Electric back in the 1960's for use with heat sinks for their Silicon Controlled Rectifiers - to get rid of damaging heat), a painted heat sink [read that "radiator"] dissipates heat much better than plain unpainted metal ["emissivity" for neat, unpolished-but-clean, metal is in the 65% range - doesn't matter what color of unfinished clean metal (though "dull" is much better than "polished" metal - which is why pressure cookers are polished - keeps the heat "in"), whereas painted is in the 95% range - again, no difference between different colors]. Seems counter-intuitive; but, this information is from good research (G.E. SCR Manual 4th edition - C. A. 1960's). Percentages are relative to a "theoretically perfect Black Body" as a 100% reference for ability to radiate heat (ask your friendly local physicist).

Retired now; but, dealt with this "heat dissipation" issue many times over my 45-year career in electrical/electronics work.

Hope this is helpful to more than just you.

Regards, JLB



55 Ford Crown Victoria Steel Top

Interesting Information. I would never have thought painted would dissipate Heat better than Bare Finish. I see quite a few Aluminum Rads in use at the Shows. I guess  some don't Paint them thinking the same thing I did. Looks much more Original painted. One thing that my Buddy mentioned is that I should have used Vinegar as a Prep at least on the Top Tank before Painting. The Bar B Q Paint does not require Primer bur treating the Aluminum before Painting is better for Adhesion. I purchased One Rad from Champion for my last 56 and the One I have now from Auto City Classic. Between the 2 the One from Auto City appears to be better Quality and the Top Tank looks more like the Original if Anyone wants an Opinion between the 2. Both purchased on Ebay.