Is it a specific type of paint that was used in the research or does any paint work?


Lawrenceville, GA

I'm not sure I agree with this. It may work for electronics but everything I researched about aluminum radiators before I bought one says Not to paint them. For a show car it would be alright but not for a driver.

Charlie,

Any paint is good; oil-based is best: Again, any color. And White is best for reflecting external heat away, whereas black will also absorb external heat best while still dissipating internal heat as well as white. Gloss is best at reflecting external heat, and flat is best at absorbtion of external heat. So: Gloss white is best at radiating heat while rejecting external heat absorbtion; and, flat Black is equally as good at radiating heat; but, worst at rejecting external heat. It should be obvious that all other shades/brightnesses/finishes would fall somewhere in between.

As for "differences" between radiators and electrical/electronics heatsinks, there isn't any: Heat is heat, physics is physics; and, air moving by removes just as well on either for equal exposed surface areas, turbulence, and total air flows: ALL other things being equal, painted metal will do much better (~95% range) versus "plain" metal (~65% range); and, polished metal is by far the worst (again, which is why pressure cookers are polished, for example).

Everybody's very welcome to doubt any free information given here - whether it has good research behind it or not; check out the reference (General Electric SCR Manual, specifically it's 4th edition [5th edition does not have this information]), though, before doubting G. E.'s substantial research.

Simply trying to be helpful; use or don't as you see fit.

Regards, JLB

55 Ford Crown Victoria Steel Top

I know this is an older thread, but I want to add something about the Auto City radiator. Although I am not an engineer or otherwise an authority on the subject, over the years I have done a good bit of reading on radiators. There are a lot of variables that influence cooling in a radiator. I was looking on ebay at radiators and saw the Auto City radiator for the mid-fifties Fords have two rows of 1 1/8" tubes. This is significant because (1) the heat is taken away from the tubes by the fins. The fins are attached to the flat sides of the tubes. A wider tube has more area of fin attachment than more rows of more narrow tubes. (2) A larger tube flows more than multiple smaller tubes of the same total width. 
Griffin Radiator has even wider tubes available. I had a Griffin radiator with the 1 1/4" tubes in my 40 Ford. It ran so cool the electric fan only came on after much slow/stop-start driving. Griffin might cool better than this one, but it cost 3-4 times more. 

I am not connected with Auto City, and I don't own one of the radiators, but if I need one they will be the first I check out.

My 58 292 runs hot in any kind of warmer weather or traffic. In reading this post, I'm going to go with the Auto City Classic, $200.00, 1957-1959 Ford / Mercury V-8 Aluminum Radiator R5759B. Would you all recommend an electric fan or even ACC's radiator, fan and fan shroud option for $299.00. Thanks for your time and knowledge, I appreciate it.

I bought a US 7 years ago and never had a problem. It's 3 row but not the one with the most fins. I had a trans cooler added to the bottom. I too run a 7 psi cap and leave the coolant 1" down with no recovery tank.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

I wrote and asked them the CFM or amps of their fan, it s been a week or so and no reply. It is pretty well understood that a fan should pull 20+ amps on 12v to be really effective. I'm concerned their fan isn't the best, especially at the cost they are offering it with the shroud. I would use a highly rated Spal or a Cooling Component product, both are proven but cost more. 

Thank you for the information, it's very helpful in making a wise decision. I'm going to check out fan options and I just ordered a 7 psi cap.

Let us know how it works out for you, feedback is good for everybody. 

I would like to add something to this post as well.  When new, my 1955 Bird had a 6 volt electrical system.  It had been converted to 12 volts before I purchased it.   One of the first modifications I made was to upgrade to a modern aluminum radiator and electric fan.  This cured my overheating problems.  My car does not overheat sitting in traffic on a hot Florida summer day.  I quickly discovered the generator could not keep up with the extra draw from the electric fan.  I upgraded by car to an alternator using a kit from Casco and installed a heavy duty 12 volt battery and tray from a 1957 TBird.   No more battery problems.  If you have a generator and you wish to use an electric fan, sooner or later you will need an alternator.