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geo56 (4/13/2019)
I too bought a US Radiator brass replacement that lasted about a year before it started leaking at the seam at the top tank. I drive my 56 Victoria every day and had put about 7000 miles on it. I had it repaired locally and ran a 7 lb cap instead of the 13. Wasn't long before is began to leak at the top seam in another place and I had it fixed again . Soon after it began to leak again and I decided on advice from a friend who collects 55-56 victorias to try an aluminum replacement from Auto City Classic. What I appreciate is the die stamped upper and lower tanks that gives the original look that looks like the TBird radiators of the time.It fit with no modifications and 2 years later I have no regrets. Price was $229 and much cheaper than the $450+ I spent on US Radiator. I have One of these also. Nice that the Top Tank looks close to original Appearance. I got a can of Black High Temp Barb B Q Paint and Painted complete Rad. Now it would pass to the Casual Observer as being Original. I know it will not Dissipate Heat as good as it would if left unpainted but I will live with that. Added a 6 Blade Fan and high flow 170 Thermostat. Should be fine.

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I too bought a US Radiator brass replacement that lasted about a year before it started leaking at the seam at the top tank. I drive my 56 Victoria every day and had put about 7000 miles on it. I had it repaired locally and ran a 7 lb cap instead of the 13. Wasn't long before is began to leak at the top seam in another place and I had it fixed again . Soon after it began to leak again and I decided on advice from a friend who collects 55-56 victorias to try an aluminum replacement from Auto City Classic. What I appreciate is the die stamped upper and lower tanks that gives the original look that looks like the TBird radiators of the time.It fit with no modifications and 2 years later I have no regrets. Price was $229 and much cheaper than the $450+ I spent on US Radiator.
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If originality is important to you, I would stick with the stock type radiator. If not, a modern three row aluminum radiator is a better choice in my opinion. My 1955 Thunderbird had a stock radiator when I bought it. It overheated in the slightest traffic. I replaced the radiator with a $200 Champion aluminum radiator and electric fan. You can not make my TBird overheat even in the heat of a Florida summer. It runs at 180 degrees and stays there. I would never go back.

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I had a 13 psi when the first leak occurred. I replaced it with a 7 psi and developed a second leak.
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Danny.. I have the identical radiator to you and it's 6 yrs old. It's never been a problem but the US that was in it when I bought it did exactly the same thing; it was a slightly different model and I wanted more. It too was fixed by a local shop and boxed up as a spare. What pressure cap do you use? I've stayed with the stock 7 pound but the guy before me had 13/15.
56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
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I bought a radiator from US radiator and spoke to their representative when I picked it up. they do both copper/brass and aluminum. I asked the difference. The rep told me that the aluminum models are lighter but are more difficult to repair he also said that copper/brass is superior in heat dissipation. He recommends sticking with the copper/brass.
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bought a US Radiator about 7 years ago. It was a 3 row heavy duty copper, brass type for my 1956 Ford Crown Victoria. About a year ago it developed a signiicant leak at the top core tank seam and was repaired by a local radiator shop. Now it has developed another leak at the upper hose fitting. I paid about $450 for the radiator. I will have it repaired again.
If i have to end up replacing the radiator, what would be the best option for the money? Aluminum or copper/brass? best brand for less than $500.
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