Final Update. I got my Car out Today for first Drive since last October. Ran good. No serious Issues. Still have some Tinkering to do as far as Timing and Carb. Happy that its Running. I was starting to Wonder if I would ever get it running even a Couple of Weeks ago. Thanks for all Your Input.

  

Thanks for the Explanation Ted. After having One more look at it this AM I found the Problem. Vacuum Leak at the rear Ports of the Intake Manifold. Tightened down the Bolts and Voila!  No more Backfire and it runs like a Watch. Timing at 8 BTDC and starts right up. Even plugging the PCV back in doesn't affect the Idle. As soon as I can round up some help to put the Hood back on I can go for a Drive and see if my Leak fixes have worked. I tried the suggestion of using the "right Stuff" in place of side Seals so Time will tell if it has worked. Thanks for Every ones Input.

  

Assuming the damper is correct and with the damper TDC aligned with the timing pointer, then both #1 and #6 pistons will be at the top of their bores.  One of those cylinders will be at compression (valves closed) while the other cylinder will be at valve overlap.  If you have valve lash present on both valves for one of the cylinders, then the other cylinder will be on the overlap cycle.  For the cylinder on the overlap cycle, then both valves will be slightly depressed with the exhaust valve closing and the intake valve opening.  These two rockers should be almost level with each other if the cam timing is in the ball park.  If one of them is depressed significantly more than the other, then there’s a chance that the cam timing is off by one tooth or more.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Yes the Damper is accurate. That's the first thing I thought of to check. It ran fine before I changed the Timing Gear Setup. At this Point I have a feeling I may have in fact have assembled it One tooth off by Mistake. At 10 BTDC it should Fire right up. Its not. Backfires through Carb until I advance the Distributor. When it does start its not running the way it should. Has like a miss and wont run at low Idle Speed. Everything I have checked is correct. The only thing I can't verify is the Timing Gears and Chain. I think I may have to take the Timing Cover off and verify. Nothing else to check. 

  

When using the piston stop, did the pointer point at TDC when splitting the difference in the stops.  Maybe your 20 degrees isn't 20 degrees. (damper ring moved?)


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Hate to admit it but I am still having Problems with my re-installed Motor. I have verified Wires being correct order, TDC using a Piston Stop, Valves both closed at TDC and Timing at 10 BTDC using timing Light. Doesn't start unless the Distributor is advanced to about 20 BTDC. At 10 it backfires through Carb. I have checked Valve Lash also. Is it possible I am off on the Timing Gears even though it does Start? I don't know what else to check.Ii installed a Points Type Distributor thinking maybe there was a Problem with Pertronix. No difference. Very frustrating at this Point.

  

When I was in a dilemma my grandfather always said :wait till tomorrow and start with a fresh look". Sometimes he would say "sleep on it". I have found that useful many times in my life. When we have an aggravating problem we tend to focus on those things we have just worked on. But if you start fresh and look at the overall problem with a fresh mind you often find the culprit. Unfortunately this doesn't always work but its helped me more than once. Glad you solved the problem.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I checked and rechecked Valves and Damper to make sure it was on Compression. Checked the Coil for Spark which it had. That's what misled Me. It was sparking but not sufficiently enough to fire the Engine. The only other thing I had apart was the Distributor which is why I thought I should have a look at it. Sure enough- found the Problem. Not enough Air Gap between Module and Magnet Ring. I did know it should be .030" when I assembled it. I guess it moved when I tightened the Screws down. 

  

This is a little procedure I have gone thru dozens of times every time I rebuild an engine.  I rotate the engine until I see the #1 exhaust valve starting to open.  I continue until it closes and the intake just starts to open.  You are in the "overlap" position.  Your timing indicator should be very near TDC.  360 degrees more rotation and you should be at the firing point.  The distributor should be pointing at #1 cylinder.  You would be surprised how many times this didn't check out properly including a time when the machine shop pressed the cam gear on to the wrong location. (Volkswagon)

Ah yes Pertronix give you that little .030 plastic feeler to check.. Good to see its all go Mark . 



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"