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Won't Start after replacing Timing Chain & Gears

Posted By oldcarmark 6 Years Ago
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oldcarmark
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Hey Guy's. I figured out my Problem and got it running Today. Read my previous Post earlier Today. It's never the Obvious Things that cause a Problem.

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FORD DEARBORN
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Fantastic news, cool.Good to know insufficient air gap can cause "no fire."  I predict there will be no leaks - you went through enough already.  If you should have any other issues with the Pertronix setup, please post, JEFF.....................


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oldcarmark
Posted 6 Years Ago
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FIXED IT!!!!     After puzzling over my Problem and reading all the Responses I decided to pull the Distributor and have a look at the Pertronix Unit. I had the Distributor apart while I had the Engine out  to replace the Breaker Plate. I have a nice 57 Unit with the Ball Bearing Breaker Plate and I found a NOS One to install. The Pertronix Unit needs to have a .030" Air Gap between the Module and the Magnet on the Center Cam. I guess I only spaced it at about .010".It will appear to be working when I checked the Coil for Spark but with insufficient Air Gap it won't start the Engine. The lesser the Air Gap the lower the Dwell.  Re-gapped it and installed. Fired up with a little moving the Distributor a little advanced. As usual its always something Stupid that causes a Problem. Its running and I am relieved about that. Now I can set it up and see if my rear Main Seal and Transmission Leaks are fixed. Thanks for the Input Guys.

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FORD DEARBORN
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Thanks Charlie.............I'm usually pretty good at adding confusion.


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charliemccraney
Posted 6 Years Ago
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When the gears are in the correct orientation while installing the chain #1 is in overlap and # 6 is in compression.  That's where the confusion is coming from.

He has since verified that the pointer is at the tdc mark, valves are closed and the rotor is pointing to #1 and it no longer matters the position things should be in during installation.

A compression test will give poor results if the gears are installed incorrectly.  That is something that can be done.


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FORD DEARBORN
Posted 6 Years Ago
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That is true, It would be overlap. I read Sandbird's post which reminded me of some old notes and found the illustration. After a closer look, I see it doesn't specify which cylinder is to be in overlap but I just assumed #1.  Been too many years since I assembled my engine but will look further for more info.


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oldcarmark
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Turning the Engine over to TDC with the Valves cracked Open is not Compression Stroke. Finger in the Spark Plug Hole Confirms that. Will a Compression Test tell me if there is a Problem with the Timing Gears?

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FORD DEARBORN
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Mark, I think Sandbird is right. The #1 should be at overlap, not TDC compression stroke.  It's been about 5 - 6 years since I did this and just for reference, I indeed found it in my notes that #1 is to be TDC at overlap, not at compression TDC.. That would mean both intake and exhaust rockers would be just holding both valve cracked. I even found a copy of an illustration of this but don't remember it's source. http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/46c68898-ddd1-4613-bad7-e0ae.jpg. I'll try to include it in this post. Maybe I missed somewhere in this thread that you indeed had the #1 in "overlap." If I did, my apologizes,  JEFF.................



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Robin272
Posted 6 Years Ago
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++ on coil wire. I did not have enough voltage at the coil, the car was completly dead. You can also see it on the color off the spark. Should look like a Blue colored spark 👍
Florida_Phil
Posted 6 Years Ago
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I had a similar problem with one of my cars last year.  I chased it for days.  It turned out to be a bad coil wire.  The wire had a graphite core and one end was burnt. Very erratic.  It would pop and try to start, wouldn't stay running.  Another time it was dirt in my gas tank.  I believe you will find out this is something simple that you are missing.


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