Mechanically everything You mentioned is Correct. When I tried using the Timing Light as U suggested it would not Flash consistently so that is why I am now thinking my Pertronix is acting up. I have another Point Distributor I will try and see if that fixes my Problem and gets it running..

  

If the spark is erratic, besides checking the obvious connections and grounds, you can also install a jumper wire from the distributor body to battery negative to rule out any issues with distributor grounding.  Just an alligator clip wire will work for this.  You can also use the light on other wires to see if the same problem exists.


Lawrenceville, GA

I had a similar problem with one of my cars last year.  I chased it for days.  It turned out to be a bad coil wire.  The wire had a graphite core and one end was burnt. Very erratic.  It would pop and try to start, wouldn't stay running.  Another time it was dirt in my gas tank.  I believe you will find out this is something simple that you are missing.

++ on coil wire. I did not have enough voltage at the coil, the car was completly dead. You can also see it on the color off the spark. Should look like a Blue colored spark 👍

Mark, I think Sandbird is right. The #1 should be at overlap, not TDC compression stroke.  It's been about 5 - 6 years since I did this and just for reference, I indeed found it in my notes that #1 is to be TDC at overlap, not at compression TDC.. That would mean both intake and exhaust rockers would be just holding both valve cracked. I even found a copy of an illustration of this but don't remember it's source. . I'll try to include it in this post. Maybe I missed somewhere in this thread that you indeed had the #1 in "overlap." If I did, my apologizes,  JEFF.................



64F100 57FAIRLANE500

Turning the Engine over to TDC with the Valves cracked Open is not Compression Stroke. Finger in the Spark Plug Hole Confirms that. Will a Compression Test tell me if there is a Problem with the Timing Gears?

  

That is true, It would be overlap. I read Sandbird's post which reminded me of some old notes and found the illustration. After a closer look, I see it doesn't specify which cylinder is to be in overlap but I just assumed #1.  Been too many years since I assembled my engine but will look further for more info.


64F100 57FAIRLANE500

When the gears are in the correct orientation while installing the chain #1 is in overlap and # 6 is in compression.  That's where the confusion is coming from.

He has since verified that the pointer is at the tdc mark, valves are closed and the rotor is pointing to #1 and it no longer matters the position things should be in during installation.

A compression test will give poor results if the gears are installed incorrectly.  That is something that can be done.


Lawrenceville, GA

Thanks Charlie.............I'm usually pretty good at adding confusion.


64F100 57FAIRLANE500

FIXED IT!!!!     After puzzling over my Problem and reading all the Responses I decided to pull the Distributor and have a look at the Pertronix Unit. I had the Distributor apart while I had the Engine out  to replace the Breaker Plate. I have a nice 57 Unit with the Ball Bearing Breaker Plate and I found a NOS One to install. The Pertronix Unit needs to have a .030" Air Gap between the Module and the Magnet on the Center Cam. I guess I only spaced it at about .010".It will appear to be working when I checked the Coil for Spark but with insufficient Air Gap it won't start the Engine. The lesser the Air Gap the lower the Dwell.  Re-gapped it and installed. Fired up with a little moving the Distributor a little advanced. As usual its always something Stupid that causes a Problem. Its running and I am relieved about that. Now I can set it up and see if my rear Main Seal and Transmission Leaks are fixed. Thanks for the Input Guys.