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55 GLASS TOP
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I think that’s all perfect, when you turn the key to strart you won’t have any surprises no need to rush thank you for the update
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lazylnm
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I put pressure to the system today after pulling the plugs. Nothing new. Also took the valve covers off - everything looked great - see my previous post. I dug out the compression test gauge today and tested it. Tomorrow I am planning to isolate the block by capping off the radiator hoses and filling the block with water and pressurizing it again. I'll turn it over by hand a few revolutions and see if there is any water around the spark plug holes or anywhere else. Then I'll do the compression test.
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55 GLASS TOP
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Ok ...
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2721955meteor
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my god 55 GLASS TOP (2/7/2019)
Marvel oil has been around for ever its not just for freeing up rings its a light oil with some detergent properties. its a good all round lubricate . Also starting the engine is most likely the way to find out if some thing is damaged , but I like to do some preliminary test so I do not do any internal damage . Lest say you fill the cooling system and the crack is in the cylinder wall coolant leaks in and when you try to start the car you break a rod or other damage . At this point all you internal parts are good you could swap them into a good block if needed. It may be overkill and I may be a worry wart but things happen quickly and its best to know what to expect I would at least do the compression test before starting . my god get real,if a cylinder is cracked,i dought the engine would turn over with a wrench on the damper bolt, the are mor vulnerable arias for plugs poping out,if engine full of water would be the head 1 then the 4 in the block. if only a bit of water the casting near the moter mount aria just stop the chatter and start the engine don't reve it up just 800rpm and watch for water
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55 GLASS TOP
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
Posts: 389,
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Marvel oil has been around for ever its not just for freeing up rings its a light oil with some detergent properties. its a good all round lubricate . Also starting the engine is most likely the way to find out if some thing is damaged , but I like to do some preliminary test so I do not do any internal damage . Lest say you fill the cooling system and the crack is in the cylinder wall coolant leaks in and when you try to start the car you break a rod or other damage . At this point all you internal parts are good you could swap them into a good block if needed. It may be overkill and I may be a worry wart but things happen quickly and its best to know what to expect I would at least do the compression test before starting .
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lazylnm
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Paul2748 - the engine was started before the frame and body were reunited. Ran for probably 2-3 hours of several different occasions. Can't remember if I've started it after the body was dropped onto the frame. I'm really surprised at how clean the oil is that I drained and what I saw on the rocker assemblies. Looked like it was straight from the bottle. I remember checking the oil in a Honda we had for sale in Seattle and how white and slimy the oil was just from condensation after sitting for a couple of weeks.
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lazylnm
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IIRC it was well below 0 for 2 or 3 days. And the power was out for two nights. I was trying to keep the house from freezing up. Not used to that kind or weather there. They are supposed to get 6-8 inches of snow tonight. Which will shut the city down completely. I took off the valve covers this afternoon - everything looked good. The push rod cups and the downhill edge of the valve springs still a bit of oil clinging. The rockers had an oil sheen. All the valves go up and down when rotated by hand. Pulled the plugs - they were all uniformly light black/dark grey with no moisture of any kind. No white powdery stuff. Stuck my pinkie in each hole as far as it would go - came out dry each time. I did find some coolant in the bottom radiator hose and one of the heater hoses so at some point antifreeze was put in. Nice and bright green. Opened up both block pet cocks and got just a dribble of liquid out. Next step - Marvel oil into the cylinders, new oil and antifreeze and try to start it up. Like someone said - get it warm and any problems will become apparent. I assume I'm looking for coolant where it shouldn't be - out the side of the block, in the oil or in the cylinders - either in the form of vapor out the tailpipes or actual coolant.
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paul2748
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If the engine has never been started, I would suggest Valvoline 10/40 with the GM EOS supplement. Otherwise, just the oil. Pull the distributor and manually (counterclockwise) turn the oil pump to get oil through the engine and the filter The NAPA filters are Wix, so they are good. lazylnm (2/7/2019)
Thanks to everyone for the insight and suggestions. Never had the occasion to use Marvel and hadn't even heard of Seafoam. As stated, the purpose of Marvel is to free up the rings - can I assume that the rings may stick to the pistons in a freely turning engine? Just for my knowledge. Great insight that the any damage will more readily show up when heated. Skip a few steps that might not tell us much and get to the meat of the problem. What is a good break in oil? Valvoline 10/30? Zinc additives were also mentioned. When I fill with oil, I'll pour some over both rocker arms. Also rotate the assembly with the valve covers off to check that none of the valves are stuck. Probably should throw on a new filter while I'm at it. Old canister type - Wix? Doesn't Wix make NAPA filters? Are they the same? The car is still 6 volt. The good news is that I can grab the battery out of the tractor for the short term. Mike
54 Victoria 312; 48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312 Forever Ford Midland Park, NJ
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KULTULZ
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2721955meteror Posted
...already stated engine turns freely
THANX for that. I did flunk out of remedial reading class in the third grade. Your help is appreciated.
When an engine sits dry for thirty years, you take (should) certain precautions to hopefully save what you have.
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weasel
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How cold did it get, ie temperature?
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