Rotella is still a go to oil last I heard.  Just hard to find in some places.  For me no local place stocks Rotella-T they have to order it.  So my option is to hit up the local oreillys and get the 5 quarts I need in Valvoline VR1 20W50 conventional as they keep that in stock and its a high zinc oil designed with racing in mind but is also compatible on street vehicles.  I don't think its a full on race oil the bottle seems to indicate it has the benefits of race oil with high zinc levels but is still a regular motor oil.


1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

That's why I run VR1, it is a regular oil but its labeled as a racing oil in what I believe is a way to get around EPA requirements of reduced zinc levels.  Valvolines website says the following.

"high zinc provides race-level protection for high performance engines on the race track or the highway. It’s exclusive chemistry is designed to reduce friction and enhance power. It is among the most popular engine lubricants in all types of racing including paved and dirt ovals, and drag racing. Formulated for race engines, but compatible with passenger vehicles too."

Their bottles also state on the front "High Zinc" and "High Performance Oil Formula for push-rod and flat-tappet engines".

As far as I could tell from reading the bottle when I first started using it years ago it sounds like its a regular motor oil with high zinc levels as it states on the back "not for use in emission controlled vehicles".  Sounds to me like its really designed with high zinc levels but is not a true race oil.


1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

I seem to recall that not too long ago Rotella-T 15w40 (not the Synthetic Version) was One Oil that was acceptable for use in Y-Block Engines. Personally I have been using it for 10 Years. It does still have sufficient ZDDP  Content where many other HD Diesel Oils no longer have it. I have also read that it is rated for use in Gas Engines. Why is it no longer considered acceptable for use in Y-Blocks? It does not require the addition of the Zinc that has been discussed in this Topic. 

  

i sent 2 members pages of info similar engineer in ca made tests on every oil for sale in the us. but i goes they failed to pass it on,or possibly the sheep ethic surpassed teck info,some never learn. so i say don't wast time trying to educate a sheep

This is a good read on the subject.  

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

The real racing oils say do not leave in and drain after racing .
The fake ones will say you can leave in.(certain amount of time)
Real ones normally will have a reduced or none of the detergent package and no moisture dispersant's, so they can get more friction modifiers in the oil as that is all a truce race needs.

THANX!

This is one of the discussions I shy away from as there are so many varied opinions and usually turns into a food fight.

RACING OIL is just that. It is drained frequently for tear-downs and such. It has very limited detergent/dispersant packages. The other "RACING OILS" may have a better package meant for a flat tappet street engine.

____________________________

Hi Phil,
This is non of my business but there are two types of racing oil.
The real racing oils say do not leave in and drain after racing .
The fake ones will say you can leave in.(certain amount of time)
Real ones normally will have a reduced or none of the detergent package and no moisture dispersant's, so they can get more friction modifiers in the oil as that is all a truce race needs.
Risk would be like the old days (60's and 70's) of Quaker-state where you tear down engine and scope out a full grocery bag of sludge.
Personally in my older engines I run 15w50 Mobil-! and a bottle of zddp

Phil it would be worth checking out as my statement goes back a number of years and things do change, so could be wrong.

Racing can have different requirements than street.
You can also have too much zinc and phosphorous and if you are using racing oil along with the break in additive, this is certainly happening.  Too much will degrade the cam just as too little may.  You don't need to double up.  #1 is to find out from your favorite oil brand what they recommend.  If no additive is required, don't add anything.  If an additive is recommended, add only enough to bring it up to recommended levels.


Lawrenceville, GA

I have a friend that is a professional bracket racer.   He builds a lot of engines for local racers.  He recommends adding a bottle of this additive with every oil change.  His engines see a lot more abuse than mine does.  Taking the engine out of a 55 Thunderbird with O/D is not something I want to repeat.  I think it's good insurance against blowing out a cam.  Maybe I'm throwing away money, maybe not.

At assembly, I used Isky paste moly cam lube on the lobes and lifters and Red Line assembly lube on the bearings.  I cut the cam grove to .030 and primed the pump by hand with a speed wrench. My engine has a blueprinted oil pump from Precision Oil Pumps.  It's a great pump at a great price. http://stores.precisionoilpumps.com/blueprinted-melling-ford-292-312-oil-pump/

I run Valvoline 10w30 Racing oil in my engine.  So far, everything has held up without issue.

Florida Phil; can you explain why are you are using a" break-in" additive, long after it's broke in?


Paul