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By Danny - 6 Years Ago
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My 312 yblock is in the process of being rebuilt. Should I use any additives during engine break in? Should I continue using additives after break in?
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By Ted - 5 Years Ago
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A ZDDP additive is good insurance against premature cam lobe/tappet wear in a freshly rebuilt engine and especially where the content of the zinc/phosphorus in the oil being used is questionable. The initial break in period is critical for new engines and that’s when a majority of wear from friction takes place. Keep in mind that additives are not a cure all for selecting an inappropriate oil for your engine though. Likewise, if there are other problems existing within the engine upon startup, an additive will not solve those. My preference for ZDDP additives are those in the 4oz or smaller bottles as those will have a minimal amount of base stock oil to carry the additive. Assuming the engine oil being used is correct for flat tappet camshafts, then I don’t use zinc additives after the intial break in has been performed.
Here’s the list of items that can contribute to premature cam/lifter wear. This was previously published in The Y-Block Magazine in 2012. This is not a complete list.
http://www.eatonbalancing.com/2012/11/06/camshaft-and-lifter-failure-causes-2/
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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I use Comp Cams Engine Break In Oil Additive in my new engine. I added it to the oil on first start up and add a bottle on every oil change. So far, so good.
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By 2721955meteor - 5 Years Ago
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i have a different opinion re initial start up, 1 cam should have molley based greas supplied by most new cam suppliers on all lobes of the cam and lifters. 90% of engine oils have plenty of additives to acomedte startup(excluding rotela t or any oils for modern sulphur free diesel engines.bo not use) 2 pre lube before startup being sure rockers are getting oil.( i prefer blocking return tubes to adeptly lube rockers and valve guedes. then mix lube oil and gas for a shot down the carb for first start. this ensures valve train lube and piston rings esetial lub, as well making life easier for starters. valve lash also critical, no tight ones. run it for 15to 20 min . then reset vaves. start using the vehicle. if you do not intend to use after this, start over when you are road ready. i will say i do only 2 or3 ys per year, but have yet to loose a cam on a y block idid send some members of the test by a ca engineer re lube oil tests,most if not all have adequate oil for older engines with flat tappet cams. leave the oil alone the blenders know there business. good luck
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By Rusty_S85 - 5 Years Ago
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for break in it wouldn't hurt to use a bottle of ZDDP additive along with a good conventional oil with ZDDP already in it. After break in you don't have to run ZDDP if you have a good quality oil with ZDDP. I run VR1 conventional in my old 292 as it has high zinc levels formulated for flat tappet engines. its also not a cheap oil either but its better than stocking zddp additives for when you top off your engine.
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By PF Arcand - 5 Years Ago
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Florida Phil; can you explain why are you are using a" break-in" additive, long after it's broke in?
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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I have a friend that is a professional bracket racer. He builds a lot of engines for local racers. He recommends adding a bottle of this additive with every oil change. His engines see a lot more abuse than mine does. Taking the engine out of a 55 Thunderbird with O/D is not something I want to repeat. I think it's good insurance against blowing out a cam. Maybe I'm throwing away money, maybe not.
At assembly, I used Isky paste moly cam lube on the lobes and lifters and Red Line assembly lube on the bearings. I cut the cam grove to .030 and primed the pump by hand with a speed wrench. My engine has a blueprinted oil pump from Precision Oil Pumps. It's a great pump at a great price. http://stores.precisionoilpumps.com/blueprinted-melling-ford-292-312-oil-pump/
I run Valvoline 10w30 Racing oil in my engine. So far, everything has held up without issue.
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By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
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Racing can have different requirements than street.
You can also have too much zinc and phosphorous and if you are using racing oil along with the break in additive, this is certainly happening. Too much will degrade the cam just as too little may. You don't need to double up. #1 is to find out from your favorite oil brand what they recommend. If no additive is required, don't add anything. If an additive is recommended, add only enough to bring it up to recommended levels.
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By Barry - 5 Years Ago
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Hi Phil,
This is non of my business but there are two types of racing oil.
The real racing oils say do not leave in and drain after racing .
The fake ones will say you can leave in.(certain amount of time)
Real ones normally will have a reduced or none of the detergent package and no moisture dispersant's, so they can get more friction modifiers in the oil as that is all a truce race needs.
Risk would be like the old days (60's and 70's) of Quaker-state where you tear down engine and scope out a full grocery bag of sludge.
Personally in my older engines I run 15w50 Mobil-! and a bottle of zddp
Phil it would be worth checking out as my statement goes back a number of years and things do change, so could be wrong.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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The real racing oils say do not leave in and drain after racing .
The fake ones will say you can leave in.(certain amount of time)
Real ones normally will have a reduced or none of the detergent package and no moisture dispersant's, so they can get more friction modifiers in the oil as that is all a truce race needs.
THANX!
This is one of the discussions I shy away from as there are so many varied opinions and usually turns into a food fight.
RACING OIL is just that. It is drained frequently for tear-downs and such. It has very limited detergent/dispersant packages. The other "RACING OILS" may have a better package meant for a flat tappet street engine.
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By Cliff - 5 Years Ago
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This is a good read on the subject.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
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By 2721955meteor - 5 Years Ago
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i sent 2 members pages of info similar engineer in ca made tests on every oil for sale in the us. but i goes they failed to pass it on,or possibly the sheep ethic surpassed teck info,some never learn. so i say don't wast time trying to educate a sheep
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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
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I seem to recall that not too long ago Rotella-T 15w40 (not the Synthetic Version) was One Oil that was acceptable for use in Y-Block Engines. Personally I have been using it for 10 Years. It does still have sufficient ZDDP Content where many other HD Diesel Oils no longer have it. I have also read that it is rated for use in Gas Engines. Why is it no longer considered acceptable for use in Y-Blocks? It does not require the addition of the Zinc that has been discussed in this Topic.
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By Rusty_S85 - 5 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (1/2/2019)
The real racing oils say do not leave in and drain after racing .
The fake ones will say you can leave in.(certain amount of time)
Real ones normally will have a reduced or none of the detergent package and no moisture dispersant's, so they can get more friction modifiers in the oil as that is all a truce race needs.
THANX!
This is one of the discussions I shy away from as there are so many varied opinions and usually turns into a food fight.
RACING OIL is just that. It is drained frequently for tear-downs and such. It has very limited detergent/dispersant packages. The other "RACING OILS" may have a better package meant for a flat tappet street engine.
That's why I run VR1, it is a regular oil but its labeled as a racing oil in what I believe is a way to get around EPA requirements of reduced zinc levels. Valvolines website says the following.
"high zinc provides race-level protection for high performance engines on the race track or the highway. It’s exclusive chemistry is designed to reduce friction and enhance power. It is among the most popular engine lubricants in all types of racing including paved and dirt ovals, and drag racing. Formulated for race engines, but compatible with passenger vehicles too."
Their bottles also state on the front "High Zinc" and "High Performance Oil Formula for push-rod and flat-tappet engines".
As far as I could tell from reading the bottle when I first started using it years ago it sounds like its a regular motor oil with high zinc levels as it states on the back "not for use in emission controlled vehicles". Sounds to me like its really designed with high zinc levels but is not a true race oil.
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By Rusty_S85 - 5 Years Ago
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oldcarmark (1/2/2019)
I seem to recall that not too long ago Rotella-T 15w40 (not the Synthetic Version) was One Oil that was acceptable for use in Y-Block Engines. Personally I have been using it for 10 Years. It does still have sufficient ZDDP Content where many other HD Diesel Oils no longer have it. I have also read that it is rated for use in Gas Engines. Why is it no longer considered acceptable for use in Y-Blocks? It does not require the addition of the Zinc that has been discussed in this Topic.
Rotella is still a go to oil last I heard. Just hard to find in some places. For me no local place stocks Rotella-T they have to order it. So my option is to hit up the local oreillys and get the 5 quarts I need in Valvoline VR1 20W50 conventional as they keep that in stock and its a high zinc oil designed with racing in mind but is also compatible on street vehicles. I don't think its a full on race oil the bottle seems to indicate it has the benefits of race oil with high zinc levels but is still a regular motor oil.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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Here's my concern (also IMO)-
The Valvoline VR1 Racing and other racing oils not intended for passenger vehicles contain additional additives for increased horsepower and reduced friction on metal parts, provide extra wear protection for high compression/higher horsepower engines, and include fewer detergents than regular conventional motor oils.
So knowing this and having a high dollar engine (most likely no PCV also), I would keep a close watch on the crankcase. Maybe even an oil analysis occasionally. But the oils designed for today's engine ain't gonna cut it in a flat tappet engine (IMO).
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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
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Rusty_S85 (1/3/2019)
oldcarmark (1/2/2019)
I seem to recall that not too long ago Rotella-T 15w40 (not the Synthetic Version) was One Oil that was acceptable for use in Y-Block Engines. Personally I have been using it for 10 Years. It does still have sufficient ZDDP Content where many other HD Diesel Oils no longer have it. I have also read that it is rated for use in Gas Engines. Why is it no longer considered acceptable for use in Y-Blocks? It does not require the addition of the Zinc that has been discussed in this Topic. Rotella is still a go to oil last I heard. Just hard to find in some places. For me no local place stocks Rotella-T they have to order it. So my option is to hit up the local oreillys and get the 5 quarts I need in Valvoline VR1 20W50 conventional as they keep that in stock and its a high zinc oil designed with racing in mind but is also compatible on street vehicles. I don't think its a full on race oil the bottle seems to indicate it has the benefits of race oil with high zinc levels but is still a regular motor oil.
Have You checked your local Walmart? As far as I know they stock it and Price is very good.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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I am using VR1. I think I'll skip the additive next time. Thanks.
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By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
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The way they describe it in the brief paragraph and in the PI Sheet, VR1 is definitely intended, at least in part, for street use. It does have adequate levels and no additive is required. The 10w30 variant also tested pretty well in the 540ratblog. 20w50 was not tested.
https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/motor-oil/vr1-racing-oil
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By tomfiii - 5 Years Ago
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Remember ,too much ZDDP will cause problems.
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By Rusty_S85 - 5 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (1/3/2019)
Here's my concern (also IMO)- The Valvoline VR1 Racing and other racing oils not intended for passenger vehicles contain additional additives for increased horsepower and reduced friction on metal parts, provide extra wear protection for high compression/higher horsepower engines, and include fewer detergents than regular conventional motor oils.
So knowing this and having a high dollar engine (most likely no PCV also), I would keep a close watch on the crankcase. Maybe even an oil analysis occasionally. But the oils designed for today's engine ain't gonna cut it in a flat tappet engine (IMO).
which is why I check my oil quite a bit. its a little higher on the stick than it was but this oil is about 2 years old and being a draft tube setup with no real street driving the condensation is only what can puff out during running. Once I start to drive the car I will make sure there is fresh oil and filter in the car.
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By 2721955meteor - 5 Years Ago
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oldcarmark (1/2/2019)
I seem to recall that not too long ago Rotella-T 15w40 (not the Synthetic Version) was One Oil that was acceptable for use in Y-Block Engines. Personally I have been using it for 10 Years. It does still have sufficient ZDDP Content where many other HD Diesel Oils no longer have it. I have also read that it is rated for use in Gas Engines. Why is it no longer considered acceptable for use in Y-Blocks? It does not require the addition of the Zinc that has been discussed in this Topic.
googol shell rotella t you will find lots of info, i could find no recommended use for gas engines,especially old ones
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By PF Arcand - 5 Years Ago
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As noted previously, the oils subject turns into a quagmire of opinions, many not supported by any real evidence..However, in Phil's case he is using break in additive after breakin. Why? Then is going to use a Race Oil for street use, again why? Those type of decisions usually don't stand up to analysis.. In the case of Shell Rottella, it has anti scuff additives which are good, but our Lead moderater, Ted, says (quoting roughly) that long term use may not be desirable due to the very high detergent additives, because it's primarily a Diesel engine oil.. A good general rule of thumb for older non roller valve train engines, is to avoid oils which are designated for modern passenger car engines, that is the ones on which the container displays the "pinwheel gear" on the label. Those oils are designated by the "authorities" for modern engines, with lower anti-scuff additives, to avoid degradding of emission control systems, such as catalytic convertors... Beyond that....
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By Rusty_S85 - 5 Years Ago
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PF Arcand (1/4/2019)
As noted previously, the oils subject turns into a quagmire of opinions, many not supported by any real evidence..However, in Phil's case he is using break in additive after breakin. Why? Then is going to use a Race Oil for street use, again why? Those type of decisions usually don't stand up to analysis.. In the case of Shell Rottella, it has anti scuff additives which are good, but our Lead moderater, Ted, says (quoting roughly) that long term use may not be desirable due to the very high detergent additives, because it's primarily a Diesel engine oil.. A good general rule of thumb for older non roller valve train engines, is to avoid oils which are designated for modern passenger car engines, that is the ones on which the container displays the "pinwheel gear" on the label. Those oils are designated by the "authorities" for modern engines, with lower anti-scuff additives, to avoid degradding of emission control systems, such as catalytic convertors... Beyond that.... Thing is even the oil manufacturers don't even know themselves. Take a look at the VR1 product page it states this about their VR1 Racing oil
Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil's high zinc provides race-level protection for high performance engines on the race track or the highway. Its exclusive chemistry is designed to reduce friction and enhance power. It is among the most popular engine lubricants in all types of racing including paved and dirt ovals, and drag racing. Formulated for race engines, but compatible with passenger vehicles too. then go look at their FAQ page and it says What are the benefits of using racing oil versus regular passenger car oil?
The Valvoline VR1 Racing and other racing oils not intended for passenger vehicles contain additional additives for increased horsepower and reduced friction on metal parts, provide extra wear protection for high compression/higher horsepower engines, and include fewer detergents than regular conventional motor oils. Then further down in the FAQ after labeling car enthauists as conspiracy theorist saying low level zinc does not harm older engines like we think they do another about face with this
What solutions does Valvoline offer to the zinc issue?
Valvoline offers two solutions to the zinc issue :
* Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil : Contains 75% higher zinc than SN or SM motor oil with a balanced additive package designed to work in both racing and traditional applications. Valvoline provides this product in both multi and mono viscosity grades.
*Longer-Lasting Zinc/Phosphorus : Valvoline uses an advanced zinc/phosphorus additive that keeps higher levels of phosphorus in the motor oil where it protects the engine instead of posioning the catalytic converter. First their product page states VR1 is formulated for race engines and compatible with passengercars as well. Then in FAQ they state first that VR1 is not intented for passenger vehicles. Then in the FAQ they throw in again that its designed to work in both racing and traditional applications.
As you can see if a motor oil company cant even keep straight on their own products then can we trust them when they label something as racing?
I mean look at synthetic oils if you really dig most synthetic oils that say synthetic on the bottle is actually a synthetic blend where its a conventional oil blended with some synthetic oil. Doesnt stop them from labeling it as synthetic and charging you for it.
In the end you might be able to get away with conventional regular old production oil on a hydraulic flat tappet cam, Ive done that in my other vehicles with no problem, but when it comes to a solid lifter I rather have take and spend a bit more money for higher zddp levels to put my mind at ease that my engine isn't going to get premature wear.
As far as the belief of the converter getting destroyed by zddp levels let this bit sink in for you, the 1980`s saw the peak of zddp levels in motor oil. My 1978 Mercury lived through that, to this day she still sports the original ford stamped converters and will pass a sniffer test set up to 1992 standards on the asm rollers. I know cause I used my vehicle to learn how to use the asm rollers when I started doing state inspection years ago. I ran it as a 1992 Ford truck with 5.0 while my mercury was a 5.8 and it still passed indicating the converters are still working even after living through the 1980`s with the height of zddp.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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First their product page states VR1 is formulated for race engines and compatible with passenger cars as well. Then in FAQ they state first that VR1 is not intented for passenger vehicles. Then in the FAQ they throw in again that its designed to work in both racing and traditional applications.
As you can see if a motor oil company cant even keep straight on their own products then can we trust them when they label something as racing?
I mean look at synthetic oils if you really dig most synthetic oils that say synthetic on the bottle is actually a synthetic blend where its a conventional oil blended with some synthetic oil. Doesnt stop them from labeling it as synthetic and charging you for it.
In the end you might be able to get away with conventional regular old production oil on a hydraulic flat tappet cam, Ive done that in my other vehicles with no problem, but when it comes to a solid lifter I rather have take and spend a bit more money for higher zddp levels to put my mind at ease that my engine isn't going to get premature wear.
VALVOLINE is saying that VR-1 is product that is not allowed to be sold as a current lubricant (disclaimer) due to emission factors. By designating it as RACING OIL, it is side stepping the EPA. Now it also states that it does not have all of the detergent/dispersal packages included in new oils. This can be good and bad as to how you use your engine and how the crankcase is ventilated. It is attune to the argument of ethanol and non-formulated gasoline.
You are operating an older tech engine and it needs a different lubricant than is what is offered for today's market. There are more current products than VR-1 which offers different package levels. It also depends on valve spring strength and what the cam manufacturer recommends.
As for ROTELLA. Years ago it was the go to as old tech product availability was very limited. ROTELLA changed their formula with the intro of HT particulate traps and SHELL made the original product available in 5 gal. pails for fleet use to keep it from being bought by the general public. ROTELLA is an old technology for gasoline engines. There are more current products for a flat tappet engine.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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which is why I check my oil quite a bit. its a little higher on the stick than it was but this oil is about 2 years old and being a draft tube setup with no real street driving the condensation is only what can puff out during running.
Sorry, I must not have expressed myself very well. What I meant was the condition of the oil if the vehicle sits and is not operated on a regular basis. If a high dollar engine (and what isn't today), I would do oil analysis on a regular basis along with opening the filter at every service (a magnetic drain plug is also a nice touch).
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By BamaBob - 5 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (1/5/2019)
First their product page states VR1 is formulated for race engines and compatible with passenger cars as well. Then in FAQ they state first that VR1 is not intented for passenger vehicles. Then in the FAQ they throw in again that its designed to work in both racing and traditional applications.
As you can see if a motor oil company cant even keep straight on their own products then can we trust them when they label something as racing?
I mean look at synthetic oils if you really dig most synthetic oils that say synthetic on the bottle is actually a synthetic blend where its a conventional oil blended with some synthetic oil. Doesnt stop them from labeling it as synthetic and charging you for it.
In the end you might be able to get away with conventional regular old production oil on a hydraulic flat tappet cam, Ive done that in my other vehicles with no problem, but when it comes to a solid lifter I rather have take and spend a bit more money for higher zddp levels to put my mind at ease that my engine isn't going to get premature wear.
VALVOLINE is saying that VR-1 is product that is not allowed to be sold as a current lubricant (disclaimer) due to emission factors. By designating it as RACING OIL, it is side stepping the EPA. Now it also states that it does not have all of the detergent/dispersal packages included in new oils. This can be good and bad as to how you use your engine and how the crankcase is ventilated. It is attune to the argument of ethanol and non-formulated gasoline.
You are operating an older tech engine and it needs a different lubricant than is what is offered for today's market. There are more current products than VR-1 which offers different package levels. It also depends on valve spring strength and what the cam manufacturer recommends.
As for ROTELLA. Years ago it was the go to as old tech product availability was very limited. ROTELLA changed their formula with the intro of HT particulate traps and SHELL made the original product available in 5 gal. pails for fleet use to keep it from being bought by the general public. ROTELLA is an old technology for gasoline engines. There are more current products for a flat tappet engine.
Kultulz, I appreciate your information and knowledge. Can you give us the names of these more current products that would be the best performers in our old Y-Blocks? Thanks.
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By Rusty_S85 - 5 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (1/5/2019)
First their product page states VR1 is formulated for race engines and compatible with passenger cars as well. Then in FAQ they state first that VR1 is not intented for passenger vehicles. Then in the FAQ they throw in again that its designed to work in both racing and traditional applications.
As you can see if a motor oil company cant even keep straight on their own products then can we trust them when they label something as racing?
I mean look at synthetic oils if you really dig most synthetic oils that say synthetic on the bottle is actually a synthetic blend where its a conventional oil blended with some synthetic oil. Doesnt stop them from labeling it as synthetic and charging you for it.
In the end you might be able to get away with conventional regular old production oil on a hydraulic flat tappet cam, Ive done that in my other vehicles with no problem, but when it comes to a solid lifter I rather have take and spend a bit more money for higher zddp levels to put my mind at ease that my engine isn't going to get premature wear.
VALVOLINE is saying that VR-1 is product that is not allowed to be sold as a current lubricant (disclaimer) due to emission factors. By designating it as RACING OIL, it is side stepping the EPA. Now it also states that it does not have all of the detergent/dispersal packages included in new oils. This can be good and bad as to how you use your engine and how the crankcase is ventilated. It is attune to the argument of ethanol and non-formulated gasoline.
You are operating an older tech engine and it needs a different lubricant than is what is offered for today's market. There are more current products than VR-1 which offers different package levels. It also depends on valve spring strength and what the cam manufacturer recommends.
As for ROTELLA. Years ago it was the go to as old tech product availability was very limited. ROTELLA changed their formula with the intro of HT particulate traps and SHELL made the original product available in 5 gal. pails for fleet use to keep it from being bought by the general public. ROTELLA is an old technology for gasoline engines. There are more current products for a flat tappet engine.
Correct, mine sits but gets ran from time to time but now that I got everything squared away to be safe to drive on the road without engine damage I am now looking at oil for my due oil change
ive been running 20w50 VR1 as that's all I could find locally on the shelves that was VR1. VR1 does not offer a straight 20w oil which is what my shop manual indicates as the highest weight oil recommended for above 32*F with 10w oil being recommended for temps between -10*F to 30*F.
My only option VR1 wise would be 10w30 which would be more appropriate but I just don't know about that 30 weight viscosity when hot as that is still too much I think over the 20 that they recommended for these engines.
shop manual states a API of MM is recommended for all engines including thunderbirds MS for police interceptor engines. Im going to spend the day digging on this as I am going to be doing my oil change soon as this oil is kinda old year wise and its time to make the change.
Just know I prefer valovline and I do want higher zinc levels just because its a solid lift. Ive ran regular oil for my hyd flat tappet engines with no ill effect but this is my first and only solid lift and rather over kill in my personal opinion.
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By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
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10w30 should be fine as long as your bearing clearances are good. Winter would be the best time to try a lighter oil since it will be thicker than it would be in warmer weather. If pressure is lower than you'd like in winter, then it will be lower than you'd like in summer.
Use regular Valvoline or another brand to experiment and keep cost minimal. Halve the change interval for it - it won't hurt the engine for a brief amount of time.
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By Rusty_S85 - 5 Years Ago
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charliemccraney (1/5/2019)
10w30 should be fine as long as your bearing clearances are good. Winter would be the best time to try a lighter oil since it will be thicker than it would be in warmer weather. If pressure is lower than you'd like in winter, then it will be lower than you'd like in summer. Use regular Valvoline or another brand to experiment and keep cost minimal. Halve the change interval for it - it won't hurt the engine for a brief amount of time.
I couldn't say on the bearing clearances the oil that was ran in the engine before it was parked was regular old exxon 10w30 oil. I made the switch to 20w50 just for the extra zinc of the VR1 since it was solid lifter and not a hydraulic lifter.
Ive been doing some reading found out the MM designation from my owners manual and shop manual became SB which I am reading was superseded by SF, SG, to SM that is used now. Im going to do some digging seems I want to shoot for something like SG as it states for 1993 and older engines. the SM doesn't have this designator listed, just states for use in all engines currently in use.
I think I might do that and try some lighter oil and see what goes on. I need to change my oil anyways and I don't really want to put the engine under load like driving with 20w50 oil when I don't think it really needs it.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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ive been running 20w50 VR1 as that's all I could find locally on the shelves that was VR1. VR1 does not offer a straight 20w oil which is what my shop manual indicates as the highest weight oil recommended for above 32*F with 10w oil being recommended for temps between -10*F to 30*F.
My only option VR1 wise would be 10w30 which would be more appropriate but I just don't know about that 30 weight viscosity when hot as that is still too much I think over the 20 that they recommended for these engines.
shop manual states a API of MM is recommended for all engines including thunderbirds MS for police interceptor engines. Im going to spend the day digging on this as I am going to be doing my oil change soon as this oil is kinda old year wise and its time to make the change.
Just be advised the SHOP MANUAL is calling for lubricants available in that time period. A lot has changed and all of that info is well out of date.
A 20W-50 oil is for racing only whereas the engine has loose clearances and uses fuel(s) which dilute the enough as to where it needs to be changed very frequently. That is why the cleansing packages are left out as the oil may be dumped between runs.
All depends now on lifter type (and modern hyd lifters can use excessive springs pressure also), assembly/wear clearances and length of service life. You need to keep records of service intervals, make-up oil and record start-up oil pressure @ idle to keep an eye on it. If the engine is very valuable, say a BIRD restoration, an oil analysis at change would give you the best idea of how the oil is performing. Don't forget proper fuel ratio and state of tune. along with correct CCV.
And above all a good quality oil filter.
Like Charlie said, a 10W-30 for normal use and possibly a 10W-40 if it really gets hot down there. Just keep a good eye on the pressure gauge (mechanical quality).
(All of the above is IMO)
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By Rusty_S85 - 5 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (1/5/2019)
ive been running 20w50 VR1 as that's all I could find locally on the shelves that was VR1. VR1 does not offer a straight 20w oil which is what my shop manual indicates as the highest weight oil recommended for above 32*F with 10w oil being recommended for temps between -10*F to 30*F.
My only option VR1 wise would be 10w30 which would be more appropriate but I just don't know about that 30 weight viscosity when hot as that is still too much I think over the 20 that they recommended for these engines.
shop manual states a API of MM is recommended for all engines including thunderbirds MS for police interceptor engines. Im going to spend the day digging on this as I am going to be doing my oil change soon as this oil is kinda old year wise and its time to make the change.
Just be advised the SHOP MANUAL is calling for lubricants available in that time period. A lot has changed and all of that info is well out of date.
A 20W-50 oil is for racing only whereas the engine has loose clearances and uses fuel(s) which dilute the enough as to where it needs to be changed very frequently. That is why the cleansing packages are left out as the oil may be dumped between runs.
All depends now on lifter type (and modern hyd lifters can use excessive springs pressure also), assembly/wear clearances and length of service life. You need to keep records of service intervals, make-up oil and record start-up oil pressure @ idle to keep an eye on it. If the engine is very valuable, say a BIRD restoration, an oil analysis at change would give you the best idea of how the oil is performing. Don't forget proper fuel ratio and state of tune. along with correct CCV.
And above all a good quality oil filter.
Like Charlie said, a 10W-30 for normal use and possibly a 10W-40 if it really gets hot down there. Just keep a good eye on the pressure gauge (mechanical quality).
(All of the above is IMO)
For me I would have to rely on the light as I didn't want to go added aftermarket gauges. Temp wise summers can get up to 105*F in some cases. winters coldest ive seen it get was 28*F.
For me this is a old engine that will be used as a driver. when it comes time for a rebuild it will be stock to be used as a driver still. So for me longevity is what I seek as I don't want to have to do engine work every few years for the driving I want to do.
For now ive been changing the oil every 1 to 2 years as I don't drive the car but I try to run the car once a week. Now that I will be driving I will be keeping a mileage record and will do oil and filter changes at the recommended 2,000 mile intervals. which for me 2,000 miles would take about 6 to 9 months to achieve.
Filter wise I always run a FL1A motorcraft filter on my fords and run the proper AC delco filter on my scrubrolets. I don't believe in using fram, or wix, or purolator or any of these other brands. I use OEM branding. Only time ive used purolator is for an airfilter for my truck as the motorcraft air filter was not available at the time.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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Kultulz, I appreciate your information and knowledge. Can you give us the names of these more current products that would be the best performers in our old Y-Blocks? Thanks.
Bob, I am no-one special believe me but LUBRICANTS have changed drastically and some refiners are saying things that not might be as true as they should be.
READ THIS - https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2016/04/high-performance-engine-oils/
It explains it better than I can.
BTW- VALVOLINE is a QUALITY PRODUCT. I did not mean to imply it isn't. You just need to know what product you need for what you drive. There is a huge difference between RACE, HOT STREET or PASS CAR/TRUCK engines.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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For me this is a old engine that will be used as a driver. when it comes time for a rebuild it will be stock to be used as a driver still. So for me longevity is what I seek as I don't want to have to do engine work every few years for the driving I want to do.
For an older engine (not recently rebuilt), you can also consider HIGH MILEAGE OIL. Check the VALVOLINE WEB PAGE for info.
I am hung on HI-PO for some reason.
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By Rusty_S85 - 5 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (1/5/2019)
Kultulz, I appreciate your information and knowledge. Can you give us the names of these more current products that would be the best performers in our old Y-Blocks? Thanks.
Bob, I am no-one special believe me but LUBRICANTS have changed drastically and some refiners are saying things that not might be as true as they should be.
READ THIS - https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2016/04/high-performance-engine-oils/
It explains it better than I can.
BTW- VALVOLINE is a QUALITY PRODUCT. I did not mean to imply it isn't. You just need to know what product you need for what you drive. There is a huge difference between RACE, HOT STREET or PASS CAR/TRUCK engines.
Oh I fully understand what you are saying. I know you aren't saying Valvoline is a bad brand. For me its just trying to get the right stuff for my application.
It just sucks cause I am content with running VR1 but I kinda of prefer a straight 20 weight oil like owners manual calls for but maybe that's just me being a stickler for the rules. Ive always ran 10w30 in my vehicles except for my old ford truck I ran 20w50 in that cause it was the only way to keep the knurled valve guides from causing excessive oil consumption.
In this case I think 10w30 is what I will run. I can get a case of 6 quarts from amazon for $12 of VR1 10w30 but its a 1 to 2 month shipping time and I really want to change my oil sooner than that since this oil is about 2 years old now.
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