Update to give everyone.  Got the engine running today finally.  Looks like everything is functioning properly just need to play around with the idle mixture some as in gear there is a roughness in the engine but when you bring the rpm up the engine is pretty smooth.

I am uploading a video right now to youtube to link it on here when its done but below is what I have done so far.

Initial timing set at 12* BTDC with vacuum lines disconnected from dist.

With the vacuum lines attached at 750 rpm idle in neutral venturi vacuum was showing timing to be 14* btdc.  Accelerating the engine showed a increase to 30* btdc I think it was around 1200 - 1500 rpm when it hit 30* btdc.  Hitting the throttle fairly hard from a stand still to cause manifold vacuum to drop I saw for a split second the white mark for TDC go full retard behind the timing point before moving back up around 20ish degrees.  Seems like the advance is functioning.  Cant vouch for the timing curve how ever will be digging my book out to make notes on that aspect to do some checking and see.

I set the dashpot as shop manual said.  Had engine idling at full hot idle and adjusted the dash pot bolt till idle speed came up and then backed it off 2 full turns to obtain the recommended clearance.  hitting the throttle now results in a slow decrease in rpm from 1200 rpm down to idle as the dashpot slows the throttle down.

I double checked the transmission rod and was glad I did as I never turned it 2 to 3 turns counter clockwise for proper setting.

Only thing left now is waiting on my heater gasket set so I can pull the leaking heater out of the car and replace the heater control valve and all the brittle broken vacuum lines.  I also need to check the vacuum output of my pump as well should be 15" at 500 rpm idle which means I will have to idle the engine down in gear as I have it currently set at 550 rpm in gear which is the max spec I found listed in my shop manual of 450 to 550 rpm in gear.   But all in all I am very happy with the results though.  Engine never ran this smooth or had this snappy of a throttle response.  That 0* initial timing that the engine had to force it to work with a late model carburetor really killed power on this engine.  Cant wait to get it to the point to take it around the block and see what the old engine can still do.

This is the video here, only 33 seconds didn't have time to make a longer one as I had other plans I had to take care of for tomorrow so didn't get to get my usual idle at exhaust I do.  The video is also taken before I made my dashpot adjustment so the engine comes back to idle quite fast compared to how it does now with the dashpot doing its job.




1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

That's what the shop manual says it says apply a thin layer of distributor grease on the cam lobe then rotate engine and use a toothpick to pull the built up excess off the point follower to prevent it from being slung around the inside of the dist at high rpm.


1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

Correct, 1956 dist with dual reservoir vacuum advance with two vacuum lines to a holley 4000 carb.

Might upgrade to a newer dist, I see the local napa sells a dist for a 1960 F100 with a 292 for $80 plus $15 core.  But I already got all the parts before I stumbled across this otherwise I would have went with this dist and modified my holley 4000 to function with the late model dist.

Aside from that I am working with oem parts correct for 1956 model year.


1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

Distributor Cam grease is quite thick, I'm not even certain it's petroleum based. In any case the shop manual is clear on this, it warns against using motor oil or chassis grease etc, anywhere near the points, for this reason .

Correct. Modern cam lubricant is a dielectric gel. Previous was (special) thickened chassis grease. The idea is not to smear it on.

After using a product like WD40, you would wipe the points with alcohol if left installed.

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...cause this is now using venturi vacuum where as the old setup with the old carb was running manifold vacuum.  not sure if it would be strong enough of a signal.

Hold on a minute. We are talking 1956 LOAD-O-MATIC correct? H4000 W Spark Control Valve and Single (breaker plate) ADV DIST?

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Distributor Cam grease is quite thick, I'm not even certain it's petroleum based. In any case the shop manual is clear on this, it warns against using motor oil or chassis grease etc, anywhere near the points, for this reason . Jus' sayin'.

That's what I was thinking of doing but I was kinda concerned cause this is now using venturi vacuum where as the old setup with the old carb was running manifold vacuum.  not sure if it would be strong enough of a signal.  This is all new to me so I am trying to eliminate as much of a headache as I can for myself where possible.  I got some 3 in 1 machine oil as well as some sae 20 3 in 1 motor oil for electric motors figured I could try those out.  Might just say screw it and pull the points out anyway and use some of my wd40 specialist rust release penetrant spray and see if that helps.  I mean its not like I got nothing to lose giving it a go.


1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

Also I forgot to mention I got some of that WD40 specialist rust release penetrative spray, would that be something ok to use on this or should I just use my plain old WD40 that I have?

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

"I pulled the vacuum hose and the timing went from like 30 degrees advance at idle to 0 degrees so I know it returns with the engine running."

... hmmpf ...

Maybe best to leave it alone then until it fires with the advance working and see what the light tells you. Do oil the cup though.

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I can pull the points out that's no big deal.  I also have a points file.

I just want to hold off any major disassembly for the time being.

I know the plate returns back to rest with the engine running as I do remember checking initial timing as the engine lacked power and was a little low on vacuum.  I pulled the vacuum hose and the timing went from like 30 degrees advance at idle to 0 degrees so I know it returns with the engine running.

It just doesn't return to rest when I move it by hand without the engine running.  That's what had me concerned about if that was normal or not.

I can do WD40, I thought about trying something like electrical parts cleaner even as that wont harm the electronics but it would wash away any grime that might be making the stiff feeling if the stiff feeling isn't the advance springs.


1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi