WD-40_® Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and lubricates almost anything. It even removes grease, grime and more from most surfaces.

What you are trying to do here is free the breaker plate so that it returns to rest, if not dmaged.

If the points are so critical to keep away from lubricant(s), cam lube couldn't be used. There is enough splash oil vapors in the distributor just from crankcase pressure. You wouldn't try to drown it, just reach it and let it penetrate. Clean it as well as you can with parts cleaner and drag a piece of paper through the points (removed before attempting) before putting back in service.

Yes lube the oil cup. If the car has been sitting, start with 3M machine oil. Go to engine oil later.

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I planned on pulling the dist later on and shipping to Larry`s Tbird and Mustang for rebuilding.  I am just trying to get the car driveable where I can drive it to maintain battery try and get the rings unstuck which I think they might be due to the blow by.  Plus I need it to be able to pull itself up on a trailer once I do my move.  I understand it needs to be rebuilt or replaced, I have that on my to do list, just don't want to do it just now as I kind of want to keep the vehicle able to be mobile.


1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

I can pull the points out that's no big deal.  I also have a points file.

I just want to hold off any major disassembly for the time being.

I know the plate returns back to rest with the engine running as I do remember checking initial timing as the engine lacked power and was a little low on vacuum.  I pulled the vacuum hose and the timing went from like 30 degrees advance at idle to 0 degrees so I know it returns with the engine running.

It just doesn't return to rest when I move it by hand without the engine running.  That's what had me concerned about if that was normal or not.

I can do WD40, I thought about trying something like electrical parts cleaner even as that wont harm the electronics but it would wash away any grime that might be making the stiff feeling if the stiff feeling isn't the advance springs.


1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

"I pulled the vacuum hose and the timing went from like 30 degrees advance at idle to 0 degrees so I know it returns with the engine running."

... hmmpf ...

Maybe best to leave it alone then until it fires with the advance working and see what the light tells you. Do oil the cup though.

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Also I forgot to mention I got some of that WD40 specialist rust release penetrative spray, would that be something ok to use on this or should I just use my plain old WD40 that I have?

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

That's what I was thinking of doing but I was kinda concerned cause this is now using venturi vacuum where as the old setup with the old carb was running manifold vacuum.  not sure if it would be strong enough of a signal.  This is all new to me so I am trying to eliminate as much of a headache as I can for myself where possible.  I got some 3 in 1 machine oil as well as some sae 20 3 in 1 motor oil for electric motors figured I could try those out.  Might just say screw it and pull the points out anyway and use some of my wd40 specialist rust release penetrant spray and see if that helps.  I mean its not like I got nothing to lose giving it a go.


1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

Distributor Cam grease is quite thick, I'm not even certain it's petroleum based. In any case the shop manual is clear on this, it warns against using motor oil or chassis grease etc, anywhere near the points, for this reason . Jus' sayin'.

...cause this is now using venturi vacuum where as the old setup with the old carb was running manifold vacuum.  not sure if it would be strong enough of a signal.

Hold on a minute. We are talking 1956 LOAD-O-MATIC correct? H4000 W Spark Control Valve and Single (breaker plate) ADV DIST?

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Distributor Cam grease is quite thick, I'm not even certain it's petroleum based. In any case the shop manual is clear on this, it warns against using motor oil or chassis grease etc, anywhere near the points, for this reason .

Correct. Modern cam lubricant is a dielectric gel. Previous was (special) thickened chassis grease. The idea is not to smear it on.

After using a product like WD40, you would wipe the points with alcohol if left installed.

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Correct, 1956 dist with dual reservoir vacuum advance with two vacuum lines to a holley 4000 carb.

Might upgrade to a newer dist, I see the local napa sells a dist for a 1960 F100 with a 292 for $80 plus $15 core.  But I already got all the parts before I stumbled across this otherwise I would have went with this dist and modified my holley 4000 to function with the late model dist.

Aside from that I am working with oem parts correct for 1956 model year.


1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi