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292 Y block with dual quad carter carbs stalls when trans is shifted in neutral.

Posted By Joe D 6 Years Ago
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292 Y block with dual quad carter carbs stalls when trans is shifted...

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KULTULZ
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PART II

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/5f33341d-eac5-49bc-b90b-fb8c.jpg

The LOM was a system using modulated  MANIFOLD VACUUM. This system (manifold vacuum use) has it's drawbacks and FORD addressed those with the 56 DUAL PORT DIAPHRAM  vacuum advance.

What is needed now is positive ID of components.

As for TED EATON, he is the man, plain and simple.



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Ok, I'll find out what parts I have tonight,
Distributor type? Original equipment Dual Advance distributor. I checked the vacuum advance with a hose and it moves and holds vacuum. Thanks DryLakes Racer! Easy test!
Manifold markings? 5-13 See photo to be added
WCFB Carb spark control valve? See photo to be added

While checking distributor and wires I noticed #5 spark plug was loose as it was turning as I moved the spark plug boot. Maybe Stalling issue??
Saturday I removed an old choke mechanism from the front carb since it was never hooked up. While running engine discovered vacuum leak where the choke was. A small tube sticking out a little where the choke mechanism once was.

Test drove: Ran great and idling around 1000 rpm. Seems like I can not get idle any lower with the idle screws on front and back carbs. Screws all the way out.  Vacuum advance hooked up to back carb port, manifold port capped.
Did not run long enough to test stalling issue. Hope to drive 21 miles to work tomorrow. That will be a good test.

Ethanol Free gasoline search in Philly area - You have to go to Reading area (1 1/2 Hr. from me) to find it out of a pump or by it in a 5 gallon can (95 octane) for around $50. You can get higher octane racing fuel also VP Racing 100,109,110.

I Talked to a refinery Lab Tech and he believes all gas in philly area has 10% added to it. 87 OCT and 93 OCT. I thought less was added to the 93 OCT before I spoke to him.

Thanks to all for the info!

Joe D



Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs
Joe D
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DryLakesRacer (10/28/2018)
JoeD, this may seem a little primative and others will probably chime in. To check which distributor you have just take off the cap and try to turn the rotor. If it will not move in either direction it's a Loadmatic. If it will move in one direction about 10-12* it is a centrifugal, which is 57-up. Also stick a long enough hose on the distributor can filling and suck on it to see if the plate moves, if it does that will prove your vacuum can is working. If it will stay moved with your tongue tip over the end of the hose the can is good.
Your truck is a 1960. I cannot believe your dist is a loadmatic. Thanks I will perform this test and report back.
 As Ted stated the Merc WCFB's were used with loadmatics in 55-56 and were not compatible with the 57-up distributors that's why I first went to the GM carbs because they were. 
There were many of the guys I knew back in the 60's who ran their distributor vacuum off manifold and not ported and made them work. The engine would always idle faster and the just turned them down. Others ran no vacuum and set the advancing springs as light as possible and kept total advance around 34-37 degrees and just lived where initial advance showed on the balencer. We were just kids, what did we know anyway.
We all have ideas that seem to work. Eventho I'm a California guy I've met Ted and watched him do dyno pulls (thanks to Karol Miller) and he has done more tests and ran every combination known to man on a Y-Block and I take his word as gospel. He and so many others on this site have helped me iron out problems which have never happened to me before and cannot thank them enough.
You will figure this out.
Thanks old pal!

Joe D




Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs
KULTULZ
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Joe D  Posted-

"Ethanol Free gasoline search in Philly area - You have to go to Reading area (1 1/2 Hr. from me) to find it out of a pump or by it in a 5 gallon can (95 octane) for around $50. You can get higher octane racing fuel also VP Racing 100,109,110."

Just a thought. If you are in the Philly area, ethanol free gasoline is also usually sold in marinas and may not be listed in the fuel reference site. Common areas to find are agricultural regions, small airports and marinas

Waiting for more definite engine assembly details/photos..



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http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/18676687-08f7-4ecc-aca7-19f6.jpg
Manifold 5-13, off of a 57 T-bird According to previous owner.


Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs
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http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/cba1643b-f1d1-4a09-923f-969f.jpg

Bottom of front carb. Spark Valve?




Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs
Ted
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If you cannot get the engine to idle down with the idle mixture screws backed all the way out, then I’ll suggest removing the carbs from the manifold and checking out the carbs in detail.  First off look at the rear secondaries to insure that they are completely seated when closed.  If the throttle blades have been removed from their shafts in the past, then there’s a good chance the assembler did not get the blades properly realigned on the shafts and you have one or more blades out of sync with the others simply making for an uncontrolled air leak.  Hence the failure to get the engine to properly idle down with the idle control screws.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


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http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/3a20f6f0-75ae-4edd-8bd6-8028.png
Stock 1960 F-100 MD 292 V-8 Dual Advance Distributor with Pertronix electronic points. Not Pertronix II. I was told there is no Pertronix I.  Bought them in 2015. Checked vacuum advance with hose (DryLakesRacer) and it moved and held vacuum.
Drove to work this morning and ran great until I got off the highway and place her in neutral. Engine died again and restarted by placing back in gear and had to goose the accelerator to keep her running. Idled kind of rough between 800-900. Before this happens its idling at 1000 and smooth. Coolant temp went to around 190 as I parked and let it idle rough.
 
Hope the phenolic spacers Work!!
Thanks Y-Blockers!

Joe D





Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs
Ted
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Thanks for the detailed pictures of the front of your carb.  Do you have the Carter carb numbers stamped on your carbs handy?  No spark control valves and vacuum secondary diaphragms makes this carb an oddity.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


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The only numbers I can find is on the top of each carb, throttle side  - 6-1273
on the front Patent Re 21610 followed by a bunch of other patent numbers. The previous owner said they and the intake  were off of a 57 T-Bird.
 When I take the carbs off to install the Phenolic spacers I'll get someone to look at them with your suggested checks. I'm certainty not qualified for that inspection.

Thanks for the help!
Joe D

Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs


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