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Joe D
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 Years Ago
Posts: 123,
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The distributor vacuum advance is hooked up to a port on the rear carb. I also tried the manifold vacuum and also plugging vacuum advance off and did not really notice any difference in performance so I hooked it back up the way it was when I bought the truck. When performing the lip vacuum test, I varied the vacuum applied to the diaphragm and the plate seemed to slide back and forth with no binding or erratic movements. However, after performing this test procedure, I did feel a little light headed and I needed to sit down for awhile !! 
Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs
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KULTULZ
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 days ago
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Sounds like they need to be gone through. That's the trouble with multi-carburetion, it's neat but requires more maintenance. I forgot to ask, is the vacuum signal to the DIST ported or manifold? Also when you applied lip vacuum (in lieu of a MITY-VAC) to the DIST advance canister and after confirming it held vacuum, did you notice free movement of the top plate, both advance and retract. No binding?
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Joe D
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 Years Ago
Posts: 123,
Visits: 84.9K
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I did not assemble the engine KultulZ. Issue started this year back in March and seems to be getting worse lately. I drove for 3 years without the issue. This morning after restating it did recover but took several minutes before it returned to somewhat steady 1000 rpm.
Does anyone know someone or a good company that I could ship carbs to and have them rebuild and adjust.
Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs
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KULTULZ
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Group: Forum Members
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THANX for that! So the truck was bought with the 8V assembled on the engine? Was the drive-ability problem noticed at purchase or started later?
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Joe D
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 Years Ago
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I did not put this set up together. I bought the truck 3 1/2 years ago from a small dealer. It was about 80% finished. I recently talked to the owner from Ohio who did the restoration. I found him through receipts that came with the truck. This is a sign he made that came with the truck. Sorry I tried to flip it! 
Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs
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KULTULZ
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 days ago
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Joe- Did this 8V setup come with the truck or you bought the set as a take-off and installed them yourself? Regarding balancing carbs, watch this- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNzjAyHAl0A
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KULTULZ
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 days ago
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"Kultulz, When I take the carbs off to install spacers I will have someone inspect, rebuild or replace with something less unusual! A friend of mine suggested EFI but I kind of like the dual quads carburetors. Old school cool, you know? Any suggestions on a set of carbs that would be good for this application? What is that a picture of??" I would try and use what you have (they are FORD issue). Most likely, the problem(s) is in either the carb(s) or linkage adjustment. Maybe something binds when hot and not cold? Will cause a vacuum leak and very lean mixture and she wants to shut down. The photo is of a valley pan especially for the 1957 E-CODE (8V). Re-read the description.
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DryLakesRacer
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Last Active: 3 days ago
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A lot has been discussed here. Teds response saying both need to be set up to work at idle definately worked for me. If your going to keep them and I would you might want what I show in the enclosed photos. It is an Edelbrock Uni-Syn for synconizing mult-carb engines. All 3 parts I made mine from are available from Summit and others. The aluminum cap is for a 5-1/8" carb with a 1-1/4" hole in it and the black adapter is plastic for a 4-7/8" carb to to the top cap. Its attached with RTV. About $45 for odd the parts. Once I set mine I've checked it only one other time. The number isn't as important as them being equal.  
56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
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Joe D
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 Years Ago
Posts: 123,
Visits: 84.9K
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Charlie McCraney, No reason for the high idle (1000 rpm). I spoke to the guy who did the restore and he said when he tried to back it down it did not run right. I did try to lower recently but the idle screws where all the way backed out. (see other posts and comments).
Kultulz, When I take the carbs off to install spacers I will have someone inspect, rebuild or replace with something less unusual! A friend of mine suggested EFI but I kind of like the dual quads carburetors. Old school cool, you know?
Any suggestions on a set of carbs that would be good for this application?
What is that a picture of??
NOTE: The truck ran good for 3 years before I had this stalling issue after heating up. The previous owner said he drove it for 4 years or so without any issues also.
Thanks Y Blockers!
Joe D (The Frig)
Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs
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KULTULZ
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 days ago
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OK, so now we know it is not LOM. The CARB style points to 1957 MERC (368 CI) and 1957 LINC (368 CI). As Ted has posted, most likely now the problem(s) lie within the carb and/or throttle linkage. Make sure when inspected the secondaries close completely. When you adjust multi-carbs, you do so with linkages removed. Once satisfied with carb balance (your system is using two primary carbs), you then install linkage and adjust from there. BTW- If the intake manifold is FORD 1957 8V (ECG-9424-D), it takes a special valley cover pan to allow the bottom of the intake not to overheat and be subject to damage. NOTE TO SELF- Could the throttle bores/plates be larger on the 57 WCFB and be causing the interference if any? 
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