14" manifold vacuum seems kind of low. Did you ever do a compression test and check the initial timing? Just re-read an earlier post and see where you advanced the timing a few more degrees above 4 degrees. It would be interesting to see what the compression is .

Since my WCFB set up is the other one in photos and there are similarities there are definately differences too. The Merc WCFBs were set up for Loadmatic distributors and mine are for Oldsmobiles which are not. Ted made changes to the Holley's to let them run with 57 up distributors but I don't know anyone making the changes to the WCFB which may be needed.
My fuel pump pressure is 4 psi and in my opinion 7 psi is too high for any engine. My sons and my 2 race cars run all modern carbs and setup with over 600HP and are settings are 5 psi with large feed lines. I'm not sure these carbs with long arms on the their floats should have such pressure; newer carbs have very short to almost no float arms The longer arms have quite a bit of leverage. The metering rods are also pretty sensitive and I've worked with mine and their settings and I can assure you I have no stalling when warm or even coming off a run up to 90- 100 mph which I do every month the flow some fuel thru all the jets and clean out the fuel bowls. Wish I had some suggestions.They only thing is if you get too frustrated and want to remove them, go to a Blue Thunder type high rise and a Summit carb...

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

The timing is advanced to 28 degrees. This seems to be the sweet spot for engine performance. I have tried retarding the timing and advancing it more but the engine still stalled after up to temp and placing in neutral.

I have the stock fuel pump so I will reinstall and see if that helps. Most people have said that 7 psi is fine but like you said with the old carbs might not like the higher pressure. I believe the shop manual says fuel pressure should be 3-4 psi.
 
I will do a compression test. Could a valve, intake or exhaust cause a high temp difference like is shown in the above photo?

Thanks,
Joe D

Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

Wow 28 deg's is a lot of initial advance. I would think a bad valve would be more apt to create a miss. Maybe a compression check will show something. There has to be a reason for the low vacuum reading some where. By now I am having a problem remembering what has and hasn't been done. I did remember about 50 years ago a guy pieced together a y-block that had the heads shaved and something got screwed up that the intake had a slight misalignment of the manifold with the ports on the head that leaked. Did the bolts go in easy when you changed the intake gaskets?

Sandbird,
The bolts went in fine and I cleaned up all the surfaces for the gaskets.
I installed the stock fuel pump last nite with a pressure gage on pump discharge. I did not test drive yet just idle to see what pressure was. It was between 5.5 and 6 pounds. The EDEL fuel pump pressure was 7 psi right before carbs. Doesn't seem like it would make that much of a difference but who knows.
I will report back after the test drive this weekend.

Thanks!
Joe D (The Frig)

Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

The timing is advanced to 28 degrees. This seems to be the sweet spot for engine performance. I have tried retarding the timing and advancing it more but the engine still stalled after up to temp and placing in neutral.

Are you saying you have initial timing set @ 28 degrees BTDC with no vacuum advance attached? And it runs? When you put the vacuum gauge on the intake vacuum source, did the needle show a steady 14HG? If so, there is something wrong with the IGN timing.

I have the stock fuel pump so I will reinstall and see if that helps. Most people have said that 7 psi is fine but like you said with the old carbs might not like the higher pressure. I believe the shop manual says fuel pressure should be 3-4 psi.

You may have to bring that down with a pressure regulator.

Also, you are going to have to get the crankcase ventilation corrected. That rubber hose trick does not work. There is a special E-CODE valley pan to be used under that particular intake and it will accept a road draft tube. The bottom of the intake manifold plenum will be damaged w/o the correct valley pan.

____________________________

When I see initial timing degrees set that high, I question if the damper ring has slipped thus throwing off the timing marks.  That's assuming the idle is not too high and/or the distributor advance springs have been changed to the very 'weak' ones.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

When I see initial timing degrees set that high, I question if the damper ring has slipped thus throwing off the timing marks.  That's assuming the idle is not too high and/or the distributor advance springs have been changed to the very 'weak' ones.

He said I believe (it's getting so long) that he couldn't get curb idle below 1000 RPM.

____________________________

OK, this was an earlier post-

No date recorded as per format.

Ok tonight I drove the truck and it took awhile to make it stall because it was cool outside (52 degrees). After getting it to stall I pulled off the side of the road and checked the carbs:

I look into the carbs and saw some cloudy vapors. When I pulled back on the throttle gas did squirt in the back carb and then the front carb. I also checked the exhaust and it didn't smell like gas.

I'm going to get a tank full of ethanol free gas and see what happens. Stay tuned!

OK. ONE of the problem(s) must be fuel percolation or too high a fuel pressure over riding the needle/seat.

Again, having that fuel supply lined plumbed as is puts it directly at the engine coolant crossover, upper and heater hoses. Add prop wash to this from the radiator and you have excessive fuel temp. Line insulation isn't going to control it, especially with ethanol blended fuel. There is also no inlet fuel filter. The pump pre-filter is only 100 micron and will not stop fine trash.

The possible 2nd problem is with the timing as mentioned in above posts.

While I am here, and after scanning through this thread, I noticed the oil fill tube with no cap?

____________________________

You may be losing some vacuum through your unused choke thermostat assemblies. A photo on page 5 shows the unused choke has the hot air input tubing cut off and crimped close. There is a passage in the carb that goes from the choke to manifold vacuum.