Appearance and adjustability. The carb vacuum source has a threaded fitting. I have a short length of tubing with a fitting attached to the carb om one end and a piece if hose on the other running to the vacuum canister.



~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles

A couple different vendors have those. Keep in mind they are not drilled.

What plastic bushings are you referring to, where do they go?

"I am trying to find the plastic bushings for kidney shaped weights. any help would be appreciated."

Do you happen to see or find an ID Stamping on the DIST BOWL? If not, about what year do you think it is out of?          

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"The Cardone I bought a little over a year ago had an adjustable vacuum advance on it. And it was the right length, I guess I was lucky"

It was adjustable? Did the instructions mention that or did you find it out on your own?

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macks show a new shaft for 57 and later dist,may help some,cheap. i am trying to find the plastic bushings for kidney shaped weights. any help would be appreciated 

Tuning the vacuum advance can is done last, assuming one doesn't have a distributor machine and the ignition curve is being done on the engine. The Crane type, with the hex shape, are easy peasey. I carry an Allen wrench on the road in the ashtray along with other small items, fuses, fittings, .22 rounds &c. If it needs a little more or less, pull the hose and make an adjustment, and back on the road again.

The earlier OEM type, otoh, is a pain, because of the potential for springs and things to start flying far and wide while trying to get the fitting threads to start under tension. The fiber tube length can be shortened to increase the amount of vacuum advance as mentioned previously. Removing shims (washers) speeds up the rate when it comes in.

When looking at the specifications page in the manual keep in mind the distributor degrees listed are half of what is actually observed at the crankshaft damper. Typical centrifugal numbers are 13° or 18° for a total of of 26° to 36° BTDC, the vacuum advance might be 6.5° or an additional 13° of timing when cruising in high gear and lightly loaded on level ground. Since the RPMs are lower in highway cruise than the maximum centrifugal advance would permit the vacuum advance picks up the slack for smoother running and efficiency. It must be somewhere around 45° or even 50° timing under certain conditions.

The Cardone I bought a little over a year ago had an adjustable vacuum advance on it. And it was the right length, I guess I was lucky. 

"I'd like to have a better vacuum advance than the one that came with it. When I ordered the Cardone distributor, I think I specified a 64 one.

This is the vacuum canister it has now."

Why do you want the earlier style, appearance?

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Thanks for the details Ted. I'd like to have a better vacuum advance than the one that came with it.
When I ordered the Cardone distributor, I think I specified a 64 one.
This is the vacuum canister it has now.



~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles

As a matter of fact, yes. The "early late" OEM style vaccum canisters with the curved arm will fit on later distributors, and modern Crane vac cans will fit on earlier distributors as well. There are annoying slight fitment differences between them that aren't a show stopper. Might have to use longer screws, washers, shim, &c.

The more modern vacuum cans that are adjustable with an allen wrench are easier for sure. The one in your pic is actually setup to use vacuum hose. The steel vacuum line as from the factory uses a different type of compression fitting on both ends called a "Ford Nut", and needs a specific compression fitting at the carburetor connection as well.