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By Florida_Phil - 6 Years Ago
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I am in the process of building my new 292 motor. I read about the issues with Cardone distributors and checked mine just in case. I bought this distributor from Mac's Auto Supply about a year ago. Sure enough, my distributor is one of the defective units. The shaft is too short and the gear is in a different place. I have the pan off my engine, so I tested it in my block and the gear does not touch the load bearing surface in the block. It's about 1/4" too high. Not only that, but the oil pump rod was not seating fully in the distributor. I have a 1957 distributor that I was going to use as a core. I placed in in my block and it fits perfectly.
What should I do? Should I use the 1957 distributor? It's the type with the ball bearing advance plate. I will need to buy a straight arm vacuum advance and probably convert it to a Pertronix module. Can I swap the 1957 shaft into the Cardone distributor? I don't want to run a modern ignition system.
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By 57RancheroJim - 6 Years Ago
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If you use the 57 shaft in the Cardone also use the 57 gear and collar to insure the drilled holes for the pins line up.
Can't the 57 ball bearing breaker plate and vacuum advance be replaced with the later design?
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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I have that Distributor in mine. The Ball Bearing type is actually I think better than the later Type with the nylon rubbing Blocks instead of the Ball Bearing Plate.Provided the Plate is in good Shape. If the Shaft Bushings are in good shape without side Play I would go ahead and use it. The Problem You may have if U don't have a Vacuum Advance Unit now is that the Replacements come with no Internal Parts like Spacers and Springs or the end Cap. This recent availability of made in China Electronic Replacements are going to be a wait and see how well they work and replacement Parts availability I think. Too bad Pertronix isn't making them (Yet). I did contact them asking about it but no Response. I would be surprised if Cardone starts making correct replacement Shafts because of Cost. Their Units are cheap now but I think would be much more if they have to start having correct Shafts manufactured. I bought the Ball Bearing One to use when I converted mine in the Spring and then found a later (1964) NOS Original Ford One on Ebay also which I bought to have on Hand if I do another Conversion at a later Date. I can see there may be a shortage of Distributors unless there is something done regarding availability of correct Shafts for rebuilt Units.
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By Tedster - 6 Years Ago
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Can read my saga of rebuilding a distributor in the older thread.
As you know, the dimensions are critical. What I found: NOS distributor shafts are available and not particularly expensive. These are not drilled. NOS distributor gears are available, and they are not expensive either. They have one (1) pilot hole pre-drilled. Location varies. Gear dimensions also vary. Distributor bushing is available. These are not expensive either.
Point being it's not going to be a simple matter of taking a new gear (or used gear) and re-installing or installing it in a used or new distributor shaft etc. When you put together a distributor, it's a custom job basically. Since the labor is the same there is little point in re-installing used gears, shafts, etc, and the finished product will not be optimal.
Even if the plan is to use a Pertronix module in lieu of points it is best to use a new distributor shaft along with new bushing. It will run noticeably better, even a slightly sloppy distributor often means de-tuning the motor in order to prevent pinging on just a couple cylinders. The NOS distributor shafts commonly available are the type that use that "fat comma" or kidney shaped centrifugal weights.
Keep your eyes peeled for NOS service replacement distributors on that auction site. They are out there.
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By Florida_Phil - 6 Years Ago
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The 1957 Ford distributor I have is out of the same 40,000 mile Ford station wagon engine where I got my crank and rods. The distributor has no detectable wear. The ball bearing plate was stuck from age. I cleaned it up and it rotates freely. If replace the vacuum canister and swap the points from the Cardone unit, is it OK to use?
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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Sounds good. Points and Condensor fit 57+. All the same for V-8.
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By Tedster - 6 Years Ago
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It sounds like it's OK, what you're looking for to be clear, is radial or sideplay of the distributor shaft. Seems to me iirc the straight-shaft vacuum advance cans are getting hard to find. Maybe not. The ball bearing point plates are good but they were prone to wear too. I think the fix was they can be re-set on installation to utilize a new surface or non-worn portion. Or, install a later motorcraft points plate and curved arm vacuum advance. Check the centrifugal weight slot pins and slits for excessive wear, they get grooved, this will mess up the advance curve too. Dennis Carpenter has these in stock.
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By 57RancheroJim - 6 Years Ago
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With that low of mileage I would keep it and use it. If the breaker plate is good all the better, I think the bearing type better then the newer type.
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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The cans are available at Macs but as I mentioned they do not include the Spacers Springs or end Cap. As Jim also mentioned the Ball bearing Plates can develop flat Spots but just reposition the lower part of the Plate in relation to the upper Part and reinstall.
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By 56_Fairlane - 6 Years Ago
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How do you know if you have a bad Cardone distributor? I bought one a few years ago and it seems ok but I haven't put much mileage on it.
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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Cardone starting using too short Shafts about 18 Mos. ago. 1/4" too short. The Ones prior to that should be fine. They ran out of good original Cores and started making what I call Frankensteins using Small Block Ford Cores and passing them off as correct for Y Block. They don't sit on the Pad inside the Block, the Oil Pump Shafts don't go in far enough, and the Drive Gear sits 1/4 " too high. Now they seem to have withdrawn them for sale as everywhere I checked they are indicating "not available". Good thing too.
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By Tedster - 6 Years Ago
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oldcarmark (10/4/2018)
Cardone starting using too short Shafts about 18 Mos. ago. 1/4" too short. The Ones prior to that should be fine.
I bought one of the imposters in April, 2016, so it's been a little longer than that.
------
You'll have to pull the distributor and check. It's obvious once you know what to look for. The bottom of the distributor gear itself, the machined surface pad, the distance from that point to the distributor housing flange that sits on the block, must measure between 4.991" and 4.996" with the distributor shaft pulled down.
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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The Length from the bottom of the flat Pad that sits on the Block to the end of the Shaft should be 6". The wrong one's are 5 3/4". Quite noticeable when measured. When these were purchased there was a note inside the Box stating that the Rebuilt should be compared with the One being replaced for correct Dimensions.
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By 57RancheroJim - 6 Years Ago
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I think most of the Cardone rebuilds are done in Mexico so I hope they are all headed south of the border..
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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Actually it's the Idiot at Cardone who came up with this Idea who should be heading Somewhere- like out the Door!
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By 56_Fairlane - 6 Years Ago
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Thanks OldcarMark. I won't worry the next time I start my 56.
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By 57RancheroJim - 6 Years Ago
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oldcarmark (10/4/2018)
Actually it's the Idiot at Cardone who came up with this Idea who should be heading Somewhere- like out the Door! So True..
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By Tedster - 6 Years Ago
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56_Fairlane (10/4/2018)
I bought one a few years ago and it seems ok but I haven't put much mileage on it.
How could you know for sure unless you remove it and check it out? It will seem ok, until it isn't.
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By PF Arcand - 6 Years Ago
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A side note on 1957-58 distributors, according to J. Mummert.. "If" being used in a high performance engine, those models had more centrifical advance than later distributors & were originally intended to run about 3* of initial advance. John points out that high performance cams usually need more initial advance to run properly, this can result in excessive total advance, risking "detonation issues"...
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By Florida_Phil - 6 Years Ago
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I bought my Cardone distributor about a year ago. I have read about the advance issue with the 57 distributors. I time my engines with a vacuum gauge. I have found that to be the best way to optimize the timing. Each engine is different. I also run high test gas in my Y Blocks. My car also has a manual transmission so I have less trouble with detonation than someone with an automatic. The end cap on the 1957 vacuum advance is still there, so I got lucky. I'll move the points and condenser over and see what happens. Those Frankenstein Cardone distributors are going to bite someone.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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Gear placement: 302 ford dimensions from bottom of distributor housing mounting flange to bottom of gear for all 289/302 distributors: 4.031"-4.038"
Gear placement: Y-BLOCK - from bottom of distributor housing mounting flange to bottom of gear for all y-block distributors: 4.991"-4.996"
This measurement can only be taken accurately with the distributor shaft pushed to the bottom and some type of straight edge clamped to the bottom of the distributor gear. Use a high-quality digital caliper.
A 302 distributor (SBF) housing fits the Y-BLOCK without a problem, but the shaft is .958" too short. If an attempt is made, the gear will not fit tightly. The Y-BLOCK shaft can be used to replace the 302 shaft if it is in good shape. The gear must run on the pad in the block with .008"to .012" end play or it will not live very long.
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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PF Arcand (10/5/2018)
A side note on 1957-58 distributors, according to J. Mummert.. "If" being used in a high performance engine, those models had more centrifical advance than later distributors & were originally intended to run about 3* of initial advance. John points out that high performance cams usually need more initial advance to run properly, this can result in excessive total advance, risking "detonation issues"...
The 57-58 Style Distributors like the One I have can be changed as far as the amount of Centrifugal Advance. Greenbird56 has done a lot of experimentation with Ford Distributors. The Slots that control the amount of Advance can be brazed up to shorten them and filed out to to adjust them. Its a little more trial and error than the later Ones where there are usually 2 different choices on the advance cam. Usually either 10L or 13L which is 20 Advance or 26 Advance at Crankshaft..I like the 57-58 Ones because of the Ball Bearing Advance Plate. I haven't changed anything on the Distributor I have. I just bumped the Initial Timing to 12 because its a stock Engine. Starts fine even Hot which will usually indicate Timing is too much if it has trouble starting.
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By 56_Fairlane - 6 Years Ago
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How hard is it to find a good 57-58 distributor?
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By Tedster - 6 Years Ago
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56_Fairlane (10/5/2018)
How hard is it to find a good 57-58 distributor?
With the ball bearing type advance plate? Slim to none, and Slim just left town.
I had to scour the intertubes to scrape up a distributor cam, that cost 50 bucks alone, and I was glad to find it. New weights were $12 per, new shaft $30, gear, bushing $10, $10 etc. The ball bearing plate is about unobtanium near as I can tell.
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By Florida_Phil - 6 Years Ago
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I have a 1957 ball bearing type distributor. I plan to change it to a Pertronix unit. I ordered a new vacuum canister from NPD and it came today. When I installed it, I noticed the advance plate moves without vacuum. I can advance the plate with my finger. It moves back and forth freely when I put air in it with my mouth. It's this right? The original 1957 and the later one is pretty stiff.
Never mind. I figured out the problem. I missed some parts. There is a spring and washers under the vacuum inlet fitting. Mind fart....
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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'I have a 1957 ball bearing type distributor. I plan to change it to a Pertronix unit."
Do you mean just the IGNITOR II module or complete distributor? I don't believe PERTRONIX offers a module kit for the 57/59 ball bearing breaker plate design.
The shim pack/spring you are describing is the early way of calibrating/varying the vacuum advance curve -
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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The Kit from Pertronix fits all 57-74 Distributors. I just installed One in the 57 Distributor I have in mine. Takes the same Points and Condensors from 57 on. Not the same as 54-56 Points. Pertronix 1 (not recommended)/ # 1281, Pertronix 2/ 71281, Pertronix 3/ 91281.
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (10/5/2018)
'I have a 1957 ball bearing type distributor. I plan to change it to a Pertronix unit." Do you mean just the IGNITOR II module or complete distributor? I don't believe PERTRONIX offers a module kit for the 57/59 ball bearing breaker plate design. The shim pack/spring you are describing is the early way of calibrating/varying the vacuum advance curve -
The Spacers (the long Tube) controls the amount of Vacuum Advance. The Spring can be shimmed (with the Washers) or changed to control how fast the Vacuum Advance comes in.
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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Tedster (10/5/2018)
56_Fairlane (10/5/2018)
How hard is it to find a good 57-58 distributor? With the ball bearing type advance plate? Slim to none, and Slim just left town. I had to scour the intertubes to scrape up a distributor cam, that cost 50 bucks alone, and I was glad to find it. New weights were $12 per, new shaft $30, gear, bushing $10, $10 etc. The ball bearing plate is about unobtanium near as I can tell.
There is One NOS Ball Bearing Plate on Ebay. Listing 322869667327. Part # B7A-12151-A or DB-2 newer Part #. There were 2 but I just bought the other One to have on Hand for future use. They do develop flat Spots from moving the same small movement for Years. Mine has flat Spots but by shifting the lower Part it moves like it should. Parts for this type Distributor are going to be even harder to find down the Road so I put Parts and Distributors away if I find good Ones for sale.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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"The Kit from Pertronix fits all 57-74 Distributors. I just installed One in the 57 Distributor I have in mine."
I stand corrected. I had read somewhere where that the module interfered with the straight vacuum advance arm on the 57/59 DIST.
My sincere apologizes for not verifying before posting ...
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (10/5/2018)
"The Kit from Pertronix fits all 57-74 Distributors. I just installed One in the 57 Distributor I have in mine." I stand corrected. I had read somewhere where that the module interfered with the straight vacuum advance arm on the 57/59 DIST. My sincere apologizes for not verifying before posting ...
You have been a Fountain of Information so only One error is a pretty good Record. Keep the Knowledge coming.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (10/5/2018)
The shim pack/spring you are describing is the early way of calibrating/varying the vacuum advance curve - oldcarmark (10/5/2018)
The Spacers (the long Tube) controls the amount of Vacuum Advance. The Spring can be shimmed (with the Washers) or changed to control how fast the Vacuum Advance comes in. Let's try this without starting a war hopefully. The LONG TUBE you are referring to (BPN 12202) is a stop. There are four differing lengths in this period alone. The differing combination(s) of the SPRING (12192 - various lengths), STOP and WASHERS (SHIM PACK) give the correct vacuum advance for each DIST calibration. Of course these can be juggled to arrive at any advance curve one wishes.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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... uh-oh ...
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By Tedster - 6 Years Ago
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oldcarmark (10/5/2018)
The Kit from Pertronix fits all 57-74 Distributors. I just installed One in the 57 Distributor I have in mine. Takes the same Points and Condensors from 57 on. Not the same as 54-56 Points. Pertronix 1 (not recommended)/ # 1281.
Warum Nicht? I've used the 1281 for 20 years now, it has been pretty much bulletproof.
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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The problem with the Original 1281 is very simple. If You leave the Ignition Key in the "Run" Position with the Engine off in a few Minutes the Unit is Toast and You can go buy another One. The Pertronix II fixed this problem. Nothing wrong with the 1281 as far as dependability etc. Just don't leave the Key turned on. There's not a big difference in Price between the 1281 and the 71281 if U shop around. That's all I was trying to get across when I added "not recomended".
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By 56_Fairlane - 6 Years Ago
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Tedster (10/5/2018)
56_Fairlane (10/5/2018)
How hard is it to find a good 57-58 distributor? With the ball bearing type advance plate? Slim to none, and Slim just left town. I had to scour the intertubes to scrape up a distributor cam, that cost 50 bucks alone, and I was glad to find it. New weights were $12 per, new shaft $30, gear, bushing $10, $10 etc. The ball bearing plate is about unobtanium near as I can tell.
I guess I'll just dream of having one then.
I would like to have a vacuum advance like this one. Would it fit a Cardone?
I just checked and I bought my Cardone distributor 6 years ago.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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Can you show a shot of your present vacuum advance canister style?
Was the CARDONE DIST you bought a Y or SBF housing style?
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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oldcarmark (10/5/2018)
You have been a Fountain of Information so only One error is a pretty good Record. Keep the Knowledge coming.
THANX! for the kind words.
Just chewing the fat while attempting to brush away the cobwebs.
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By Lord Gaga - 6 Years Ago
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It would be a good idea to check your rotor phasing when replacing vac diaphragms, especially with non stock ones.
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By Tedster - 6 Years Ago
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56_Fairlane (10/5/2018)
Tedster (10/5/2018)
56_Fairlane (10/5/2018)
How hard is it to find a good 57-58 distributor? With the ball bearing type advance plate? Slim to none, and Slim just left town. I had to scour the intertubes to scrape up a distributor cam, that cost 50 bucks alone, and I was glad to find it. New weights were $12 per, new shaft $30, gear, bushing $10, $10 etc. The ball bearing plate is about unobtanium near as I can tell. I guess I'll just dream of having one then. I would like to have a vacuum advance like this one. Would it fit a Cardone? I just checked and I bought my Cardone distributor 6 years ago.
As a matter of fact, yes. The "early late" OEM style vaccum canisters with the curved arm will fit on later distributors, and modern Crane vac cans will fit on earlier distributors as well. There are annoying slight fitment differences between them that aren't a show stopper. Might have to use longer screws, washers, shim, &c.
The more modern vacuum cans that are adjustable with an allen wrench are easier for sure. The one in your pic is actually setup to use vacuum hose. The steel vacuum line as from the factory uses a different type of compression fitting on both ends called a "Ford Nut", and needs a specific compression fitting at the carburetor connection as well.
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By 56_Fairlane - 6 Years Ago
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Thanks for the details Ted. I'd like to have a better vacuum advance than the one that came with it.
When I ordered the Cardone distributor, I think I specified a 64 one.
This is the vacuum canister it has now.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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"I'd like to have a better vacuum advance than the one that came with it. When I ordered the Cardone distributor, I think I specified a 64 one.
This is the vacuum canister it has now."
Why do you want the earlier style, appearance?
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By Gene Purser - 6 Years Ago
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The Cardone I bought a little over a year ago had an adjustable vacuum advance on it. And it was the right length, I guess I was lucky.
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By Tedster - 6 Years Ago
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Tuning the vacuum advance can is done last, assuming one doesn't have a distributor machine and the ignition curve is being done on the engine. The Crane type, with the hex shape, are easy peasey. I carry an Allen wrench on the road in the ashtray along with other small items, fuses, fittings, .22 rounds &c. If it needs a little more or less, pull the hose and make an adjustment, and back on the road again.
The earlier OEM type, otoh, is a pain, because of the potential for springs and things to start flying far and wide while trying to get the fitting threads to start under tension. The fiber tube length can be shortened to increase the amount of vacuum advance as mentioned previously. Removing shims (washers) speeds up the rate when it comes in.
When looking at the specifications page in the manual keep in mind the distributor degrees listed are half of what is actually observed at the crankshaft damper. Typical centrifugal numbers are 13° or 18° for a total of of 26° to 36° BTDC, the vacuum advance might be 6.5° or an additional 13° of timing when cruising in high gear and lightly loaded on level ground. Since the RPMs are lower in highway cruise than the maximum centrifugal advance would permit the vacuum advance picks up the slack for smoother running and efficiency. It must be somewhere around 45° or even 50° timing under certain conditions.
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By 2721955meteor - 6 Years Ago
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macks show a new shaft for 57 and later dist,may help some,cheap. i am trying to find the plastic bushings for kidney shaped weights. any help would be appreciated
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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"The Cardone I bought a little over a year ago had an adjustable vacuum advance on it. And it was the right length, I guess I was lucky"
It was adjustable? Did the instructions mention that or did you find it out on your own?
 .
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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"I am trying to find the plastic bushings for kidney shaped weights. any help would be appreciated."
Do you happen to see or find an ID Stamping on the DIST BOWL? If not, about what year do you think it is out of?
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By Tedster - 6 Years Ago
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2721955meteor (10/6/2018)
macks show a new shaft for 57 and later dist,may help some,cheap. i am trying to find the plastic bushings for kidney shaped weights. any help would be appreciated
A couple different vendors have those. Keep in mind they are not drilled.
What plastic bushings are you referring to, where do they go?
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By 56_Fairlane - 6 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (10/6/2018)
"I'd like to have a better vacuum advance than the one that came with it. When I ordered the Cardone distributor, I think I specified a 64 one. This is the vacuum canister it has now." Why do you want the earlier style, appearance?
Appearance and adjustability. The carb vacuum source has a threaded fitting. I have a short length of tubing with a fitting attached to the carb om one end and a piece if hose on the other running to the vacuum canister.
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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56_Fairlane (10/6/2018)
KULTULZ (10/6/2018)
"I'd like to have a better vacuum advance than the one that came with it. When I ordered the Cardone distributor, I think I specified a 64 one. This is the vacuum canister it has now." Why do you want the earlier style, appearance? Appearance and adjustability. The carb vacuum source has a threaded fitting. I have a short length of tubing with a fitting attached to the carb om one end and a piece if hose on the other running to the vacuum canister.
There is an original 1957 Distributor on Ebay with the Vacuum Advance included. It has been converted to Dual Point but that comes off and the Ball Bearing Breaker Plate is intact and can be used as original with single Points and Condensor or Pertronix. Item # 382364996899. The Kit if You want to see what it is look at Item # 312248624036. That's a hard Distributor to find because it is original and complete. Same Distributor I bought and installed on mine using Pertronix.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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oldcarmark (10/6/2018)
There is an original 1957 Distributor on Ebay with the Vacuum Advance included. It has been converted to Dual Point but that comes off and the Ball Bearing Breaker Plate is intact and can be used as original with single Points and Condensor or Pertronix. Item # 382364996899. The Kit if You want to see what it is look at Item # 312248624036. That's a hard Distributor to find because it is original and complete. Same Distributor I bought and installed on mine using Pertronix. BINGO! FEK 12127-A2 - 1957 FORD 312 
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By Florida_Phil - 6 Years Ago
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Thanks for the information. You guys are great, I installed a new straight arm vacuum advance canister with the inside parts from the stock 1957 distributor. I will be installing a Pertronix 1281 module. There were two shims in my stock ball bearing distributor canister. I'm thinking about removing one to get the advance curve a little faster. I got so lucky when I found this 1957 engine. I paid $400 bucks for the whole motor and have used most of it except the block. It's a standard bore 272. My block is my original Thunderbird 292 block bored .060.
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (10/7/2018)
oldcarmark (10/6/2018)
There is an original 1957 Distributor on Ebay with the Vacuum Advance included. It has been converted to Dual Point but that comes off and the Ball Bearing Breaker Plate is intact and can be used as original with single Points and Condensor or Pertronix. Item # 382364996899. The Kit if You want to see what it is look at Item # 312248624036. That's a hard Distributor to find because it is original and complete. Same Distributor I bought and installed on mine using Pertronix. BINGO! FEK 12127-A2 - 1957 FORD 312
There is a little difference in Advance Specs between the 292 and this 312 Distributor according to my Shop Manual but not much. Wouldn't be hard to adjust Specs. This has been listed for awhile because I don't think lookers realize the Dual Point is an ad on and can be switched back by removing 2 Screws. Looks like a good Unit if You want an Original.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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In today's world, it is a good find (IMO).
I would want it just because of the ID Stamping. It would look period correct for a period resto (not dedicated).
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By 2721955meteor - 6 Years Ago
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macks have a new dist shaft for 57-58 v8 21.99 b7a-12175-a i was looking for the small plastic bushings for the weights. not avail in canada,that i can find
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By Tedster - 6 Years Ago
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2721955meteor (10/7/2018)
i was looking for the small plastic bushings for the weights.
Can you explain what the plastic bushings are? Maybe post a pic?
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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2721955meteor (10/7/2018)
macks have a new dist shaft for 57-58 v8 21.99 b7a-12175-a i was looking for the small plastic bushings for the weights. not avail in canada,that i can find
Illustration from Parts Catalog. I don't see anything that looks like Bushings.  
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By FORD DEARBORN - 6 Years Ago
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The kidney shaped weights I have deal with have brass oil-lite bushings pressed in. If your strib weights have nylon bushings, post a pic if possible. Unless I'm on a different page here. 
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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FORD DEARBORN (10/7/2018)
The kidney shaped weights I have deal with have brass oil-lite bushings pressed in. If your strib weights have nylon bushings, post a pic if possible. Unless I'm on a different page here.
By looking at Parts Catalog I don't see Bushings separate from Weights. Apparently Dennis Carpenter has several Hundred of NOS Weights and He also has the B7A-12175-A Distributor Shafts.
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By FORD DEARBORN - 6 Years Ago
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Earlier in this thread a pic was posted comparing a SBF to a Y-block strib. It's difficult to see precisely but the SBF strib with the triangular neck appears to be a small amount taller. Even the cap looks to be higher than the cap on the Y- block strib. If indeed that SBF strib is taller with a slightly higher bowl, then even the correct B7A-17175-A shaft would come up short. I have to question all the parts these Cardone Frankenstein stribs were assembled with.
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By Florida_Phil - 6 Years Ago
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Here is a photo of two distributors side by side. The one on the left is the Carbone Frankenstein I bought last year from Mac's. The one on the right is a stock 1957 ball bearing advance plate Y Block distributor. As you can see, the shaft on the Carbone distributor is 1/4" shorter and the distributor gear sits higher. The gear on the Carbone unit does not sit on the machined trust surface in the block. The gear is being limited by the distributor case where little lubrication exists. You can also see major differences in the castings. If you have the one on the left in a Y block, you should replace it. Good luck getting it replaced under warranty.
Here is a photo from Carbone showing the Frankenstein Y Block distributor. They claim the fit and function is the same. Clearly it is not!
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By 57RancheroJim - 6 Years Ago
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Some generic photo and shows the quality, vacuum advance with one phillips and on slotted screw and what is the rubber plug on the left side, ground wire with a loop laying against the cam. LMAO..
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By FORD DEARBORN - 6 Years Ago
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Thanks for the pics, provides a lot of information. Very difficult for me to see details in the photo of the Cardone but is the coil wire connected to ground and the ground wire connected to the points? Not sure about the "plug" on the side. I always thought the stribs with the triangle neck used the wedge style fly weights as opposed to the kidney shaped weights. Please correct me if I'm wrong. My thoughts were: Buy the shaft, B7A-12175-A that someone posted earlier and fit it to the Cardone strib. I looked at the picture of the NOS shaft and it is made for the kidney fly weights so it could not simply be installed is the triangle neck stribs. These stribs have much shallower bowls and were later used for Duraspark applications. I thought Green Bird some time ago may have said the triangle stribs were offered as service replacements for Ford Y-blocks. If so, then correct length shafts were at one time made for the triangle stribs.. But the shaft, if it ever was available separately, would be a different part number. All my parts catalogs end at around 1974. Maybe someone with later catalogs could check? I'm not trying to add confusion (although I'm good at that) but just looking for an inexpensive way to make this right for us Y-blockers and take a few stribs out of the scrap pile and make them once again, usable. Now that I learned the 57 style shaft is available for a very reasonable price, $20? add a new bushing and most stribes could be rebuilt, Looks like there is a high quality strib available but is over $500?
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By Tedster - 6 Years Ago
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FORD DEARBORN (10/9/2018)
Thanks for the pics, provides a lot of information. Very difficult for me to see details in the photo of the Cardone but is the coil wire connected to ground and the ground wire connected to the points? Not sure about the "plug" on the side. I always thought the stribs with the triangle neck used the wedge style fly weights as opposed to the kidney shaped weights. Please correct me if I'm wrong. My thoughts were: Buy the shaft, B7A-12175-A that someone posted earlier and fit it to the Cardone strib. I looked at the picture of the NOS shaft and it is made for the kidney fly weights so it could not simply be installed is the triangle neck stribs. These stribs have much shallower bowls and were later used for Duraspark applications. I thought Green Bird some time ago may have said the triangle stribs were offered as service replacements for Ford Y-blocks. If so, then correct length shafts were at one time made for the triangle stribs.. But the shaft, if it ever was available separately, would be a different part number. All my parts catalogs end at around 1974. Maybe someone with later catalogs could check? I'm not trying to add confusion (although I'm good at that) but just looking for an inexpensive way to make this right for us Y-blockers and take a few stribs out of the scrap pile and make them once again, usable. Now that I learned the 57 style shaft is available for a very reasonable price, $20? add a new bushing and most stribes could be rebuilt, Looks like there is a high quality strib available but is over $500?
The Ford service replacement distributors available later were of the triangle shape housing, and had the later wedge shaped flyweights. I have a Cardone housing and the older style replacement distributor shaft, didn't think to measure the overall dimensions carefully as I never envisioned using the two together. I could take some measurements, to see if they would work. I think it would just be a matter of correct gear placement but I'm not sure.
The Cardone housing is actually of the two (upper/lower) bushing design, but they omit the lower bushing. Very much doubt they replace the upper either. So many things wrong...
I put together a completely rebuilt distributor, just need to find a drill press (or buy one) to make a clean installation of the collar and gear. With new parts installed there is no perceptible radial or side play, something that was really important when mechanical points were in wide use. I've seen some websites suggest up to .006" is acceptable, that's nonsense! The dwell, and thus the timing, will be all over the place.
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By FORD DEARBORN - 6 Years Ago
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Tedster, that's what I was getting at. Will the old style shaft designed for the kidney weights work in the triangle distributor? Just a few minutes ago found a 302 triangle distributor in the junk pile and looking inside, it doesn't appear to be a deep enough bowl for the thick bulky kidney weights. If you could drop that shaft in the triangle strib to test this theory would be much appreciated. I don't think Cargone knows what to do here I hope everyone with incorrect "Frankenstein" stribs can at least recover their investment. BTW, can anyone come up with a part number for the Y-block shaft designed tor the later triangle distributor? Thanks, JEFF...............
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By Tedster - 6 Years Ago
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I'll do it. I checked to make sure I didn't throw the cardone housing away (I didn't) but didn't feel like getting involved in it again at the moment. I've had enough "distributor drama" to last for a good while! Maybe tomorrow I'll take some detailed measurements and post a couple pics, after a good stiff drink ha ha.
It seems to me the length of the upper part of the distributor shaft in the cap, might be an issue as well, I recall just idly eyeballing things messing around one day and wondering if the rotor would end up a little too high in the cap. Or maybe it's the ersatz distributors where that's the problem? Can't remember, they are slightly different though. Stay tuned.
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By 56_Fairlane - 6 Years Ago
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I have to look at my "Cardone" distributor again. I do recall it was an actual FoMoCo unit so I need to take a look for the date code to see what year the case is.
I pondered the 57 distributor on ebay but $200 seems too much.
I guess it's a 1960 distributor because of the C0AF prefix. The date code on it is 0DD which looks "ODD" 
It was tricky to see. I had to use a mirror and then took a photo of the image visible in the mirror so I could see what was on the distributor.
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By charliemccraney - 6 Years Ago
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Given that there is probably now a shortage of distributors available, prices for good used and rebuildable cores will probably go up. So be careful about passing over something that may seem expensive, particularly if it is needed.
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By FORD DEARBORN - 6 Years Ago
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At the present time there are I think 3 distributors in the classified section of this forum. I know nothing of them or who is offering them. I think they have been on the block for 2 days now.
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