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oldcarmark
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Group: Forum Members
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KULTULZ (10/5/2018)
"The Kit from Pertronix fits all 57-74 Distributors. I just installed One in the 57 Distributor I have in mine." I stand corrected. I had read somewhere where that the module interfered with the straight vacuum advance arm on the 57/59 DIST. My sincere apologizes for not verifying before posting ... You have been a Fountain of Information so only One error is a pretty good Record. Keep the Knowledge coming.
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KULTULZ
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KULTULZ (10/5/2018)
The shim pack/spring you are describing is the early way of calibrating/varying the vacuum advance curve - oldcarmark (10/5/2018)
The Spacers (the long Tube) controls the amount of Vacuum Advance. The Spring can be shimmed (with the Washers) or changed to control how fast the Vacuum Advance comes in. Let's try this without starting a war hopefully. The LONG TUBE you are referring to (BPN 12202) is a stop. There are four differing lengths in this period alone. The differing combination(s) of the SPRING (12192 - various lengths), STOP and WASHERS (SHIM PACK) give the correct vacuum advance for each DIST calibration. Of course these can be juggled to arrive at any advance curve one wishes.
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KULTULZ
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Group: Forum Members
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... uh-oh ...
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Tedster
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oldcarmark (10/5/2018)
The Kit from Pertronix fits all 57-74 Distributors. I just installed One in the 57 Distributor I have in mine. Takes the same Points and Condensors from 57 on. Not the same as 54-56 Points. Pertronix 1 (not recommended)/ # 1281. Warum Nicht? I've used the 1281 for 20 years now, it has been pretty much bulletproof.
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oldcarmark
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The problem with the Original 1281 is very simple. If You leave the Ignition Key in the "Run" Position with the Engine off in a few Minutes the Unit is Toast and You can go buy another One. The Pertronix II fixed this problem. Nothing wrong with the 1281 as far as dependability etc. Just don't leave the Key turned on. There's not a big difference in Price between the 1281 and the 71281 if U shop around. That's all I was trying to get across when I added "not recomended".
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56_Fairlane
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Tedster (10/5/2018)
56_Fairlane (10/5/2018)
How hard is it to find a good 57-58 distributor? With the ball bearing type advance plate? Slim to none, and Slim just left town. I had to scour the intertubes to scrape up a distributor cam, that cost 50 bucks alone, and I was glad to find it. New weights were $12 per, new shaft $30, gear, bushing $10, $10 etc. The ball bearing plate is about unobtanium near as I can tell. I guess I'll just dream of having one then. I would like to have a vacuum advance like this one. Would it fit a Cardone? I just checked and I bought my Cardone distributor 6 years ago.
~DJ~ AKA "Bleach" 1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles
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KULTULZ
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Group: Forum Members
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Can you show a shot of your present vacuum advance canister style? Was the CARDONE DIST you bought a Y or SBF housing style?
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KULTULZ
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oldcarmark (10/5/2018)
You have been a Fountain of Information so only One error is a pretty good Record. Keep the Knowledge coming. THANX! for the kind words. Just chewing the fat while attempting to brush away the cobwebs.
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Lord Gaga
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It would be a good idea to check your rotor phasing when replacing vac diaphragms, especially with non stock ones.
"FREE SAMPLE"
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Tedster
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Group: Forum Members
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56_Fairlane (10/5/2018)
Tedster (10/5/2018)
56_Fairlane (10/5/2018)
How hard is it to find a good 57-58 distributor? With the ball bearing type advance plate? Slim to none, and Slim just left town. I had to scour the intertubes to scrape up a distributor cam, that cost 50 bucks alone, and I was glad to find it. New weights were $12 per, new shaft $30, gear, bushing $10, $10 etc. The ball bearing plate is about unobtanium near as I can tell. I guess I'll just dream of having one then. I would like to have a vacuum advance like this one. Would it fit a Cardone? I just checked and I bought my Cardone distributor 6 years ago. As a matter of fact, yes. The "early late" OEM style vaccum canisters with the curved arm will fit on later distributors, and modern Crane vac cans will fit on earlier distributors as well. There are annoying slight fitment differences between them that aren't a show stopper. Might have to use longer screws, washers, shim, &c. The more modern vacuum cans that are adjustable with an allen wrench are easier for sure. The one in your pic is actually setup to use vacuum hose. The steel vacuum line as from the factory uses a different type of compression fitting on both ends called a "Ford Nut", and needs a specific compression fitting at the carburetor connection as well.
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