I finally got the time to swap out the pump. Now I'm getting 15 lbs at idle and 60 lbs at cruising speed. I'm pretty sure the problem was a bad tube nut seal. One thing I did find out was when,putting in a pump in a 56 passenger car,the oil pump drive shaft has to be installed in the distributor first. I got it to stay in the the dizzy by putting wheel bearing grease on the shaft.

Durham Missouri

Re low oil psi at idle; Often this has to do with improper seating of the grommet according to a Tag I have here from a pump. The instructions are to install the pipe, jam nut & grommet as a unit into the pump . Forcing the pipe into the grommet when already in the pump, is not recommended. Ensure you do not cause rubber to be peeled off  the grommet. It will cause an air leak or worse jamb the pump rotor causing a driveshaft failure. Also, one of the pump
mounting bolts must not exceed 1-1/4" in length or it will damage the pump housing which may also cause a drive failure... 
N.B- Often when oil psi problems come up here, it leads to enquiries about Hi Performance pumps.. That' s not going to solve the problem & is just a waste of time & money..  All things in the engine being otherewise correct, Y-Block pumps are more than adequate for virtually any application..  


Paul

I just put the shaft into the pump gear or rotor and work it into place.  Pointy end up and the retaining washer goes on the oil pump end.


Lawrenceville, GA

Yes. I didn't see anything but there was a slight rough spot. It didn't seem to bad though. Does anyone have a trick when putting it back together to hold the pump drive shaft in place?

Durham Missouri

did you remove THE RELEAF VALVE IF SO ANY MARKS  OR BERS ON THE VALVE  INDICATING STICKING.

I got the old pump off today and it looks good inside. I'm confident it was the seal on the pickup tube. It was the style that has a metal ring around the rubber seal. I dont think it was able to completely compress and allow a good air tight seal. I'm going to put the new pump on any just to be safe. Are there any tricks to getting the oil pump drive shaft to stay in?

Durham Missouri

I'll definitely post what I find. For insurance I ordered a new pump. After the swap I'll open the other one up to see what is going on.

Durham Missouri

the good thing with the Yblock is the oil pump can be removed in 10 min. open it up check the relief  valve piston as well the condition of the pump. even if it is new new means nothing especially if it comes from abroad .any engine that is rebuilt ,or new is never completely clean,first place for tiny debree is the oil pump,then the filter.
so those who are hobey  mechanics, first  find a tradesman discus issue and then search a site for further advice,sharing the trdesmans vew. 
just my slant re endless posts over a problem with no feed back re solutions work

"As far as the Melling HV pump where do you get them? From what I've read here they are not available anymore."

You're correct. I did not know that and is why I posted the EATON article on a fabricated pump.

If Tim McMasters built the engine, he should be your first inquiry.   

Please get back with what you find.     

____________________________

I've read that article. The engine is in my '56 wagon.I highly doubt its anything internal. Tim Mcmaster built the engine so I'm confident all is good with the clearances.I'm thinking its something in the pump itself. As far as the Melling HV pump where do you get them? From what I've read here they are not available anymore.

Durham Missouri