I had the same problem with my 56 Victoria dying after it had been idling for a while.  It would start right back up and it would run fine out on the road. Some months later it started cutting out and dying if I tried going over 60 MPH. It was starving for fuel. So I did a fuel pump test to check its pressure and flow rate. Pressure was fine (5 psi), but flow rate was way under what the manual calls for (way under 1 pint in 30 seconds at normal cranking RPM). The old original fuel pump had finally given up. I would recommend you do a fuel pump test. Disconnect the fuel line running from the fuel pump to the carburetor at the carburetor. Connect a hose to the end of the fuel line long enough to reach a container (not glass, for safety reasons). You are messing with gasoline here, so be careful. Make sure the hose fits the line tightly so it won't leak. Crank the engine for 30 seconds and check the amount of fuel in the container. Should be at least 1 pint. You can connect a low pressure gauge (or vacuum gauge that has a pressure scale) to check for 4 - 5 psi. 

My 56 Merc had the same problem, put an insulating block carburetor, I am using compressed wood one, solved p;roblem 

The language barrier complicates things but there are translation abilities online today that make things a lot easier than it used to be.

What you want is the Ford Shop Manual for your car. It will have all the specifications and setup adjustments to optomize the tuning. MoToRs Repair manuals also have a very good tuneup section at the beginning.

Today I always suggest that any "new" car someone takes ownership of first have the true TDC "0" mark on the vibration damper checked or verified with an 18mm piston stop. Comp Cams part #4792; or, you can make one from an old spark plug and threaded rod. Pull all the spark plugs, install the tool in the #1 cylinder, turn the engine over by hand in both directions till the #1 piston hits the stop. The true #1 TDC lays exactly halfway between these two points. It is important to verify this, because all subsequent ignition timing events are predicated on this start point being true and correct. It is very common for the outer steel inertia weight to slip off its "clock" or axis, making the timing marks on the damper inaccurate. If the damper on your engine is original it should be replaced regardless.

A cylinder compression test will also prove if there are other engine derangements. Make sure all the spark plugs are removed and throttle & choke blocked open wide, and battery is charged completely. Gauge Needle should move quickly and powerfully to a high level relatively quickly, and ideally all cylinders within 10%

16" of idle manifold vacuum isn't necessarily too bad, but this is dependent on the type of camshaft installed, (and your local altitude) a stock motor in good condition should pull about 20" at Sea level. If you have a stock motor, then it sounds like retarded ignition timing, or tight valve lash, or both.

If you take a deliberate, methodical approach to troubleshooting, setup, and adjustment for every component and system you will be rewarded with a fine running machine, you'll get there.

Kind of a long shot, but pull the metering rods and springs. It’s just two screws with the air cleaner off. The manual will show the vacuum range of the spring based on color. If you’ve got a vacuum leak, or any problem causing a little bit low vacuum, you could be running with the enrichment open (power valve on other carbs). That will run you rich, especially if the throttle hangs open a bit. I think a vacuum leak or other mis adjustment is more likely, but it’s easy and free to check.

I like those Edelbrocks, I’ve used them on Yblocks and other motors. Takes a while to understand the tuning chart, but for me it finally made sense. Your language skills seem fine to me.



miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

If you've got compress air take out the idle screws and blow thru them. Same for any other passages. That canned air for your computer works too. If you need to change metering rods, it's the easiest thing on those to do. I check for vacuum leaks with starter fluid and a nozzle from a WD 40 can..... carefully. Good luck.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Not exactly.  While the fuel does travel through the main jet to the primary well, the idle jet is so much smaller that the main jet will not really affect the idle circuit.


Lawrenceville, GA

If i understand the manual correctly  primary jet and metering rod can affect the amount of fuel the car gets at idle ?
This text is taken from manual
"Fuel is drawn through the Idle System (Figure 2) by the intake manifold vacuum that is communicated at the Idle Screw Port (8) and Transfer Slot (7). Fuel in the bowl passes throughthe Primary Main Jet and Metering Rod Restriction (1) and into the Primary Well (2)."

Again, Download the manual from Edelbrock's website and read it so that you understand how the carb works.

It's been a while since I have used an Edelbrock but I'm pretty sure that the metering rods affect the main circuit and not the idle circuit so if the problem is only at idle, those will have no affect on the problem.


Lawrenceville, GA

I have tried the test with idle screws and engine dies if i screw all the way in.
I was just out driving the car now and it runs good i think its got the power and goes smooth, left it on idle for just a min and there is no missfireing or stuff like that witch make me think its not an internal engine problem. but i think the exhausts smells quiet strong so i guess its running abit rich? is that something i can tune on my 600 cfm carb without changing meteringrods? 

The results of a compression test and leak down test will give you a good idea of the condition.

Re the idle screws, one test you can do while it is idling well is to screw one all the way in.  The engine should stop running when you do that.  If it does not, then fuel is getting into the engine some other way, resulting in a richer than necessary idle mixture.  Another thing to check for a rich idle mixture is to let it idle until it stops and then pull a couple spark plugs to see if they are gas fouled..

Re your cooling setup, since it doesn't get hotter than 200 degrees, it is ok; there is no problem.  If you will be more comfortable with a cooler temp, then have the fan turn on sooner.


Lawrenceville, GA