So is it running yet?

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico

No, stuck in the weeds, I do have a motor ready to bolt in, however I'm working on the good motor, if you see me doing any dumb stuff (I always do) let me know.

Cliff

PS. Buy your parts from John Mummert, support the man that supports us, just look at Engine Masters.

Don't see anything stupid just a little puzzling.  When we did our rocker testing a few years back we saw short pushrods increase ratio at low lift and decrease ratio at high lift.   Small bits.   We ended up running Smith Bros.  pushrods because the cup is very streamlined.   They gave the ability to have the pushrod adjuster up as high as we could get it, and just barely clear the rocker arm body.  With our angle milled race head the long  pushrod helped clearance when the valve was closed as well, early on. Our Race Head program now has machining on the bottom of pushrod holes to give a some more clearance.
 I know one time I bought a brand new tenth indicator from a pawn shop for our small dial bore gauge. Man I scored. A brand new Federal Indicator.  Get it to shop install it on the gauge.  (It took me a while to figure out it was a backward indicator.)    It works beautiful as long as you know (+ means interference) and (- means clearance).

  Keep on truckin'.  Hows your intake manifold coming?.  I know last time we talked you had some interesting ideas for that.

 

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico

Well the intake is on it way, I'm working on injector placement, this is a big problem (wet flow), will post photos when a little closer, I'm going to install a pop off valve in the back of the intake in case of a back fire, I'm having to coat the inside of the manifold with clear epoxy to stop clouding up from the fuel
 (I hope this works), I have not started on the scoop (Lexan also)

Some work today, removed the overflow tubes from the shafts, replaced them with bolts turned down on the ends, this stops the shafts from turning, had to thread the end stands for the bolts.

All day working on the rockers, shafts polished checked and assembled.

 

Ok more work done, long block about finished, there's my 8,000 RPM valve train (?), big problem with the distributor, the gear on the MSD will not ride on the machined surface on the block, so I tried an old Mallory, same problem, then I tried a Ford distributor no problem, I wonder how many people don't check this, Monday I will call MSD and see what they say. PS I know it looks like a dirty block, I scrubbed it to death

 




 


 





 

   

Just an idea for you.. Machine a spacer that fits between the block and base o the distributor. I used to do that to adapt a 440 mopar distributor to a 383 type block. In fat mopar performance makes them. There is roughly 1/2 inch difference in the length of the distributors.
Even now when replacing my oil pump drive/distributor gear I have to check the length to ensure the drive isn't bottoming out in the oil pump gear.
Just an idea to keep you going without buying a bunch of different stuff..

Dave

Good idea, but not for this one, the gear is about .020 high on the shaft, I ether need to slide down the gear and re pin (don't want to do that) or maybe an over size pin (drilled a little lower), or maybe there is a shim at the top of the shaft that I can replace with a thinner one, will know Monday.

Cliff

Here's the problem, Factory measures 4.944 MSD 4.885, this is with the shaft pushed up against the collar.