I had to buy a new damper for my car. For some reason the replacements ID is smaller than the original Ford damper. So I'm going to have to have it honed out . How much press should it have? I was thinking maybe less than .001 Would be sufficient. Also I read somewhere once where the key slot is in relation to the TDC mark but I can't seem to find that info. Can anyone help me out with either. Thanks

Durham Missouri

, I have also found them to be tight fit and polished out to orig size, as bolt holds in in place should need to be too tight.



  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Replaced the damper on my stock 292 with a Powerbond brand, at the time it was the only source available for new. Anyway it fits perfectly. Honing should never be required, they are designed with a very close interference fit or they won't work right and the keyway (in theory anyway) may possibly be damaged, or worse.

There's no way it's going on. It started to and then stopped, galled the shaft some and had a hell of a time getting it off. I rough measured it with a pair of calipers and it about .003 small.

Durham Missouri

Not that I have ever measured any but I would have thought that ever the crank or the damper would have a slight taper because they start of loose until about halfway then you need the bolt to pull them up. I would suspect almost no interference on the fit with the amount of surface area otherwise it would become tight too early. It might be difficult to hone or ream with the keyway being there. I would do it in stages until it felt correct when going on.

They can be a $&@!! to install, but they shouldn't be. Powerbond makes good stuff.

Here's some information about the measurements to bring to your machinist:

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Harmonic_balancer/damper_-_How_to_remove_and_install#Harmonic_damper_install-_honing_to_fit

That article is more precise, but 50 years ago when Mom wasn’t home, I used the oven at 300 degrees. It was a bitch to get off, but it went back on pretty easy. Did some parts in the dishwasher, too. Ran in the family, grandpa and grandma came back early and caught Dad rebuilding a flathead in the living room.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

I've had stock dampers that were difficult to get on. Cleaned up the crank with emery cloth and found some highs and lows. Patient polishing with a long strip finally did the job. I didn't want to take too much off.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I've had the stock one off and on a couple times with no problems. The replacement is just too tight. My thinking is if you have to freeze one and heat another to get it together then something's off. If there is that much interference fit then there is no way it'll come back off without alot of effort. I work with stuff everyday that has that much interference and I can say from experience it's no fun to take apart. I was thinking maybe .0005-.001 would be plenty.

Durham Missouri

It does sound like you have a clearance problem. Did you contact Powerbond? Sometimes quality control slips. When I got my AOD adapter everything was find except the crank adapter wouldn't fit over the flange and had to be remachined. It happens.



Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire