Ted,
Both '60 models I have use the spiral cut shaft. The point spring pressure is adjustable if you have a scale to measure it. No parts book so I don't know what the part # is for the bushing. Good luck getting it out, it must take a special type tool, that why I cut mine in half at the bottom of the bushing so I could press it out..

I bet that's the answer, and/or tool steel bushing just lasts longer. Installed the original issue distributor today and installed points just to see what's what. While there was no perceptible sideplay, the scope waveforms sure showed there was. I never thought about it before but there's about 1 pound of force the rubbing block places on the distributor cam off and on 300 times a minute say at idle x 8 lobes. ANY slop or clearance in the shaft/bushings out of roundness is going to show up. It idled OK with points but a little "lopey" and the scope patterns displayed that in time, re-installed the Pertronix and it was MUCH better and idled stronger and smoothed out. I'll have to look at getting it rebushed. Anybody have a FoMoCo part number or standard industry cross?

The spiral oil groove is a later thing, on SBF ain't it? None on the Y Block cores I have.

Both of the dizzy's have the same bushing so I don't think it was a fluke.
Just a wild guess but I wonder if too many bushings wore out from people not oiling them and they changed the design?
I wonder if Cardone even replaces the bushing and what do they use?

Correct, the oil  wick under the rotor is only for the advance. I was also expecting to see an oilite type bushing, maybe those were used in earlier models. This one is hardened steel, I touched it to a grinder and the sparks were the same as tool steel. I know this is a 100% original '60 dizzy..
I guess the oil goes up the spiral in the shaft some how but thats baffling to me..

That boilerplate BS makes them even more complicit! They know damn well it's a critical thing, yet they will sell a defective product. A "Beware Of Dog" sign never helps the homeowner, if something were to happen. Same principle applies.

The wick under the rotor was to oil the cam/advance plate assembly, not the top bushing.  The distributors that I have worked on had oilite bushings which could absorb oil from the cup, though few people ever put oil in the cup. 

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

"The bushing is solid steel and hard like tool steel and no way for the oil to get to the ID from the oil cup. We then split the dizzy in half length wise right through the oil passage. At the bottom of the oil passage there is a small chamber area for the oil that goes around the OD of the bushing, what good does that do?

Was there ever a time maybe in earlier years the that oiling through the cup actually oiled the bushing?"



There should be a spiral on the shaft itself which should bring the oil to the bushing-
Some styles had the cup and other styles had a wick under the rotor button you were supposed to oil when servicing.

____________________________

"In contract terms it falls under warranty of fitness for a particular purpose, and they can't just slap a sticker on the box "too bad so sad". Technically they would have to sell their products "As-is". The customer has an expectation that when he buys a Y block distributor, it's going to fit and is designed and constructed in a workmanlike way."

CARDONE DISTRIBUTOR 32-2808 DISCLAIMER- 

WARNING-
" It is extremely important to match the replacement distributor to the original unit. Dimensions and gear description must be checked before installation. If the original shear pin or gear is worn or broken, then the oil pump and or gear must be replaced. Using the wrong distributor, worn drive gear , or defective oil pump drive will result in extensive engine damage and VOID THE WARRANTY."

In short, have a nice day.

____________________________

That's different. Maybe it was a Monday morning distributor at the factory? I figured it was one of those oilite bushings. Oil cup seems to work on this one I'm rebuilding. Checked end play. OK. Spec is .022" to .032", the lower the better.

A little off topic from the original post but I found something really strange when I was making one good dizzy from two old ones. These were both 1960 COAF models and after disassembly and cleaning I put some oil in the oil cup to see if it was going to the top bushing but it wasn't happening on either unit, WTF?? Talking to a friend about it we decided to dig deeper, to get the bushing out of the bad one we cut the dizzy in half to push it out. The bushing is solid steel and hard like tool steel and no way for the oil to get to the ID from the oil cup. We then split the dizzy in half length wise right through the oil passage. At the bottom of the oil passage there is a small chamber area for the oil that goes around the OD of the bushing, what good does that do?
Was there ever a time maybe in earlier years the that oiling through the cup actually oiled the bushing?