'Ya know...

A lot of the LOADOMATIC service parts are still available NOS if you know what you are looking for. If you are still a young fellow, it might be worth stocking up while you can...

____________________________

Hm. I see where you're goin' with that. Can the '57 and later cam assembly and weights be swapped over? Breaker plate?

I wrote one seller about their 30-2808 wares, explained the problem.


"Hi,

I would suggest orderingg this part and if the measurements are not correct then return it.

We do not do measurements, as we cannot gaurantee accuracy.

So hope that that suggestion helps"

They can't be trusted with a crayon, a tape measure is a bridge too far, I guess.

"Hm. I see where you're goin' with that. Can the '57 and later cam assembly and weights be swapped over? Breaker plate?"

No, the LOM DIST BOWL is smaller as is the dist cap.

CARDONE used to be a class act. I personally will avoid them like the plague nowadays.

____________________________

The best running set-up (all-around) I have is a 1959 Autolite style body with the "kidney" shaped flyweights. I came to me with an elongated flyweight travel slot in the upper rotor shaft. It had been designed by Ford to be used with a very short initial advance (3º-5º) - and then lots of centrifugal to reach whatever their target maximum was at the time, for the engine assembly it was installed in. I didn't want that on my engine as 10º initial seemed to work well and I wanted the limit to be 36º. Soooo.... you reduce the travel slot (in my case it was too long) to net a total travel of 13º in the distributor - 26º at the crank (with little or no wear on the pins). This required brazing up the end of the slot and then making a smooth radiused slot at the modified end.
 

The one in this photo looks a little different - it has the point cam machined off and the upper end modified to accept the "armature" of a Duraspark II system trigger.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

. squote]Tedster (8/8/2018)

---

[/quote]
There is no point in contacting the Seller of these 30-2808. They all come from Cardone and that's where the Problem is.. I contacted Cardone several Times regarding the "problem" with these 30-2808 Distributors. They are ADAMANT that there is nothing wrong with them and basically get LOST and stop bothering us. Nice Eh? Stay way from their Junk unless U want to end up with Engine Damage. I also contacted Pertronox with the suggestion that they might want to look at producing stock Type Distributors for Y-Blocks. No response from them.

  

Yes, cleaning one up now. The cam I have on hand is 13L, is stock to my applcation iirc. What did you end up using, two light springs? Bending the tabs to loosen tension? Here's where a distributor machine would be sweet.

26° at the crank + 10° initial should be right in there at 36° or so, plus another 12° or so when vacuum is pulled in at steady cruise. That is the factory curve but getting it to come in early is the trick. Usually on the trucks it will still be advancing past 4000

I can't tell you what's in there for springs now - too long since I had it apart. At one point I had two of the softer Ford springs in there - tried to get all of the advance in at about 2500 - but I know others have used lower  rev's for full mechanical. Depends on the gas available and the cam (mine is a stocker). I'm also running mine with a vacuum pot limited to 7º - and feeding it manifold vacuum. Sitting at idle, advance is about 17º at the crank - and on my stock cam that nets 20 inches HG - best vacuum. it drops out to accelerate - then comes back in as the engine goes to "cruise" at higher road speeds. I prefer the manifold vacuum advance method and that's the way I set it up - other methods work as well.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

A little off topic from the original post but I found something really strange when I was making one good dizzy from two old ones. These were both 1960 COAF models and after disassembly and cleaning I put some oil in the oil cup to see if it was going to the top bushing but it wasn't happening on either unit, WTF?? Talking to a friend about it we decided to dig deeper, to get the bushing out of the bad one we cut the dizzy in half to push it out. The bushing is solid steel and hard like tool steel and no way for the oil to get to the ID from the oil cup. We then split the dizzy in half length wise right through the oil passage. At the bottom of the oil passage there is a small chamber area for the oil that goes around the OD of the bushing, what good does that do?
Was there ever a time maybe in earlier years the that oiling through the cup actually oiled the bushing?

That's different. Maybe it was a Monday morning distributor at the factory? I figured it was one of those oilite bushings. Oil cup seems to work on this one I'm rebuilding. Checked end play. OK. Spec is .022" to .032", the lower the better.