Ok Guys heres what I have,
It's a STOCK 1957 Ford Failane 500 with a rebuilt 292 and I'm running 3 new real Stromberg's  not the Chinese one!!! garbage!!!  on an Offenhouser manifold all is set up great and it runs great!! My issue is that if I go to a cruise and shut her down for a bout an hour she's hard to start. I tried not pumping the gas also pumping the gas but it just seems like it takes a long turn over of the engine to fire her up.
I have an electric fuel pump that I turn on and Strombergs love 2.5 lbs fuel regulated thats ok
I,have even taken off my air filters to see if they smoke down indicating a leak down of the carbs and flooding but they don't!?
So what's up next?
Timing is dead on
someone suggested plugs?
I running a pointless mallory disrtib with a high voltage coil
Plugs are gaped at 32 someone said gap at 35/40?
Help what do you guys think???

I had the same the same symptom. I chased my problem down to a slow needle & seat leak that slowly flooded the intake after the engine was shut off.  After fixing the leak, it fires up instantly again hot, warm or cold.

Have You checked for Spark when it wont Start? If You have Fuel and Ignition it should Start. Have U verified that fuel is available in the Carb to start it by pumping the gas and looking down the Carb throat to see if Fuel is expelled by the Pump? Vapour Lock or Percolation of the Fuel in the Line to Carb or Float Bowl could be the Problem.Try pouring some cold Water on the Line and Carb and see if it makes a difference next time you Park it for an Hour or so when Hot. Just some Suggestions..

  

Do you have an insulated type spacer between the carbs and manifold? Todays fuels percolate pretty easily. An engine heats up when shut down and coolant is no longer flowing. I have a Ford truck with a single barrel Holley with a glass bowl, after it sits for about 10 minutes I can see the fuel begin to boil.

I have the exact same problem and it's definitely heat related. Get a infared gun and check your carb and line after some low speed cruising and after it sits for a while. You will be surprised how hot the carb gets.

Durham Missouri

I think Jerome is probably correct that a leaky needle and seat is passing fuel .
The other thing to remember is that fuel expands when hot so you could also try lowering your float level a bit.
Take your air cleaner off when the engine is good and hot , look down the carb throat and you may actually see fuel dribbling down inside the offending carburetor.

Hey guys I've done all the above, I have phenolic spacers and I looked down the carbs to see if it's dripping I've even set my fuel bowl level lower. I definitely have spark! I was a a cruise this morning and we ck'd it agian someone said a higher voltage coil like around 45,000V But I have an Accel at 42,000V I don't see much of a difference of 3k. But we did notice the coil was very hot to touch and the spark looked weak! I have it mounted in back of the engine where there once was a down draft tube because I didn't want to drill into the fire wall. Could the coil be over heating just enough to give a week spark? I can try to relocate it back to the original space on top of the manifold. What do you think?

Thanks in advance for advice.

Is the Coil mounted Horizontally or Vertically?  Is it possible U do have a bad Coil thats weak when it gets Hot?

  

Fuel leakdown or loss is a likely cause I'll agree with others......

But also - what sort of initial spark timing are you providing your engine? Is the Mallory a full mechanical advance set-up or does it have a vacuum pot? Full mechanical advance outfits are often set-up with a ton of initial advance - maybe not the best arrangement for lighting the fire. The large initial will net some nice vacuum numbers at idle at the expense of starting convenience. Easy to set it to 10º for a trial.

Don't get bamboozled by coil voltage ratings - under typical compression ratios, the spark jumps at about 10K-12K volts. The large numerical rating on a coil is it's INSULATION rating. The coil manufacturer takes advantage of the big number offered by their insulation vendor to flag some extra interest in their product ....... but the plugs still fire at 10,000 volts. 

  

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

You don’t mention how the engine starts when cold but I’ll assume it’s without much grinding on the starter.  If that’s the case, then the carburetors are at the top of my list.  I’ll suggest pulling the tops off the carbs an hour or two after you shut it down and check each float level.  You may have only one carb draining down and that’s all it would take.  Most carbs have anti-siphon holes in the metering system to keep the fuel from running back into the engine when its shut off.  It’s possible one of those holes is plugged or stopped up.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)