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How Long To Reach OP Temperature?

Posted By Half-dude 8 Years Ago
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Half-dude
Posted 8 Years Ago
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charliemccraney (4/26/2017)
Sweet!  Now you can show your friend how to check the timing. Wink



lol yeah.. me smart. XD
charliemccraney
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Sweet!  Now you can show your friend how to check the timing. Wink


Lawrenceville, GA
57RancheroJim
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Thats great news!!!
Half-dude
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So I messed with my carburetor trying to get the idle lowered. I barely felt like I was able to lower it hardly at all before I basically lowered the idle screw as low as it could possibly be lowered. (that is the screw, and the bolt on the throttle that hits the stopper plate.)
Now either I did mange to get the idle lowered, or it's because I locked down the distributor. But either way the engine seems to be running and accelorating normally now.

I went on a 30 mile drive, a huge circle around town. Half of it was highway, the other half was stop and go. The best thing though, the engine has stopped overheating!!! Finally after all this time it was well.. the timing all along. In fact my guage is showing it wanting to hover around 176 most of the time.. under where it should be by a little bit! lol. It really is fricken awesome.
Sandbird
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Dude,
Before you start changing springs you might want to squirt something like choke cleaner at the center of the breaker plate while working it back and forth. Gum builds up over a period of time and makes it difficult for them to rotate and can cause them to stick. Also don't overlook the spark control valve on your carburetor, it affects the vacuum going to the distributor.
Half-dude
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Here are the videos:








Half-dude
Posted 8 Years Ago
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hmmm..
57RancheroJim
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You may be getting a vacuum signal to the distributor if the idle is set to high..
Half-dude
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Okay I've got some big information. I'm uploading about 4 videos which I'll be able to have up by late this evening.

I was initially checking my advance first, I had the vacuum hooked to the distributor. When I noticed that at idle it had a higher advance I'd say about 15o -20o. I figured the distributor was looser then I thought since it wasn't locked down maybe it turned a bit in the drive yesterday. But then when I disconnected the vacuum to do another initial timing adjustment the timing was back to where I left it at about 6o - 8o advance. Also with the vacuum advance hooked up, there would be no advance when accelerating the engine. So it sounds to me like you guys are right, that the vacuum advance is running all the time. I also noticed with the vacuum plugged into the distributor, that in PARK the advance would be 15o - 20o advanced at idle, but in DRIVE the advance would only be about 10o.. but again that makes since right? The engine is doing higher RPMS in Park.

I then popped the cap off the distributor to look inside. I noticed I could turn the plate inside the distributor very easily and the primary spring was literally wobbling on the posts.

So it sounds like I need new springs right?

I'll ge those videos up ASAP tonight.
57RancheroJim
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Thats the correct carb to provide the correct vacuum signal for the LOD distributor. Have you checked to see if the timing is advancing? If you aren't getting advance above idle speed it will never run right and over heat! The vacuum advance unit is one of the most important parts of that type distributor. Just advancing the timing until it runs better is just a band aid, and a bad one..


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