If you are starting the engine on an engine stand, do you have the engine grounded to the battery and stand?  Positive ground vs negative ground?  What year engine?  You need both battery cables, not just positive if it is on the stand.  Joe-JDC

JDC

Joe- The engine is on a stand and the battery is grounded to the engine and stand. Thanks.

The stand is exactly the same as before the rebuild and the engine ran fine with it on the stand.

Could there be a problem with the clutch and pressure plate putting too much force on the flywheel? I had a bit of trouble lining up the shaft when putting the trans back on. Not sure if it's just me but it seem as if the engine cranks slower and is harder turning over, plus the starter is getting red hot. I fully charged my battery last night and gave it a crank this morning, it sounded better- like it might start, but nothing!

I re-checked #1TDC and made sure the rotor was at #1. I ran back through the firing order cranking the engine by hand and checked the valve lash- all good.

I'll do a quick compression test too.
View of dizzy from pass side



Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.

Just checked #1 and #4 for compression and got this reading. This reading was after 3 compressions, I went for 4 but it didn't change.

#1


#4


I'll check the rest.


Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.

Thanks for the picture of the bell housing, it just didn't look like a stock on in the earlier picture, probably my old eyes.
Looks like the firing order is correct. Compression is a little low, but on a new engine I wouldn't worry to much it will take a while for the rings to seat but it should be enough to fire it. Did you have the carb wide open when you took the test?
Have you pulled a plug wire while cranking it to see if its actually getting spark to the plugs?

57RancheroJim- i didn't have the carb wide open. I did pull #1 plug and tested for a spark, it looked like a good spark. I have ordered an inline spark tester and remote starter, with these i hope to be able to watch the dampener marks and see if the spark is in time with the dampener markings by releasing the remote start when the plug sparks- or at least thats my idea.

Otherwise I'm not sure whats happening, i have been trying to upload a video of the engine kicking over but I'm having trouble, the attachment loading thingy just keeps flashing.
I really worried about damaging my cam and lifters now, although i did throughly lube them up with cam lube, fingers crossed!


The battery dies real quick while trying to crank the engine. Its a brand new Optima 35 (red top) and it cranked the engine ok before the rebuild.


Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.

A red hot starter and a dead battery is a sign of very high friction, causing a very high load. Get the mis aligned trans off it and see what happens. With good assembly lube you're probably ok on the cam. But that motor should just spin, even if it doesn't fire. Timing or firing order off, it might hesitate or backfire. Sounds to me like the trans is binding it up. The low cranking speed will reduce the compression test reading. Get the trans off, and if it doesn't spin, pull all the plugs. Even a new motor with the plugs out should just spin on the starter.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

OK Miker, I'll get that trans off and see what happens (hopefully that might be the source of the problem). The bellhousing and trans came off together, when i put it back on it just didn't feel right, but with my inexperience i didn't know any different. So I'll do that, unfortunately i live about 3 hours away from the place where I'm working on the y block, so ill have to wait until next weekend to give it a shot.

If i think of anything else ill give you guys a shout


Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.

Did you prime the oiling system?  No matter what the answer, it will be wise to do it again, given all the cranking with no start, to ensure that the bearings are still lubed well.



Lawrenceville, GA

Charliemccraney-
I did prime the oil system using a drill an an old torn down distributor, oil pressure readings were in the range of 65-70. I will keep that in mind for next weekend when I try again.


Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.

Dennis, 
From all that I have read here, it seems to me that the problem is in the turning of the engine works. That is, there must be binding somewhere to make the starter overheat and discharge the battery rapidly. Did the engine turn freely with a wrench on the crankshaft before you installed the clutch and transmission? If so, the post about a mis-aligned clutch/transmission assembly sounds like a very probable cause.