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Engine not starting after rebuild

Posted By dennis22 8 Years Ago
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57RancheroJim
Posted 8 Years Ago
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I can't picture how a trans and clutch would go together if it was misaligned,?
MoonShadow
Posted 8 Years Ago
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The trans shouldn't have been hard to get in once aligned. Perhaps its too tight in the input shaft bushing? I would at least loosen it up and see if that makes a difference. Sounds like your starter doesn't have the power to turn the engine. Definitely need to find out what is stopping it.


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YBLOCKEREDH
Posted 8 Years Ago
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I just finished a 312 engine rebuild start on stand. My starter that cranked the old motor very well barely turned my engine, drained my brand new battery very quickly, made starter hot. Pulled starter and bench tested and spun like crazy. Took it to an old starter generator shop for testing, was told it was good that my ground cable needed to be secured at the starter mount bolt not engine and a suggestion of all new cables was in order. I did all that with charged battery overnight and got a 10% improvement in cranking, would give a little cough and battery die. I was really concerned about my new cam and lifters as well at this point. Although I did not have my tranny attached as you I was going through all the steps you are. I finally said screw it and bought a $100 rebuilt starter from Napa if nothing other than to compare the new/old and put that thought to rest and move on with other remedies. I set my damper on 12 deg. btdc attached my test light to the input wire on side of dizzy and slowly turned the dizzy until the current was broken indicating my points had just started to open on #1. hit the remote starter and the new starter cranked like a maniac and the engine immediately came to life. It was quite shocking and unexpected. Be prepared to grab the throttle , I stood there dumfounded in disbelief that it started so quickly and watched as it died. End result is it runs fantastic, cam and lifters are holding their adjustment so I think all is good. Another on this blog had told me he went through the same experience with his old starter in new motor and a new starter was a game changer. I hope you get this sorted out, it is very frustrating but in most cases sometimes its the obvious especially if you had a free wheeling motor by hand with plugs out . For the sake of spending the extra on starter I would try without tranny attached as suggested first. GOOD LUCK !!!
Gary





2721955meteor
Posted 8 Years Ago
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glad it all worked out.tho i am sure if you had primed the intake with oil and gas mixture you would not have a need for the new starter,
ENGINE NEW TIMING SLIGHTLY OFF STATER NOT 100% EVEN IF PRE LUBED VAVES HAVE LITLE LUBE,RINGS ARE DRAGING,REAR SEAL TIGKT,BATERY WEAK all is against the starts system,oilwithe gas into carb gives all these issues a boost. have saw this same issue maney times. with older cars we usually pushed started them first start, until a season mechanic came along and showed the light. laugh if you wish.
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Still doesn't explain why a new starter would crank 20 times faster, I however do get the idea of oil in the gas just like a 2 stroke for extra lube ...I will use that idea on my next one makes total sense. I did also have oil spread around the bores before and after piston assembly . When I changed my starter I gave the old one one last try on the fresh battery ...same result. Pretty sure the old starter is shot even though I completely disassembled inspected cleaned . The armature looked great the brushed were barely worn. The starter shop also inspected the parts and thought the starter looked and tested fine,  but it wasn't.
Gary
dennis22
Posted 8 Years Ago
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BamaBob (2/14/2017)
Dennis, 
From all that I have read here, it seems to me that the problem is in the turning of the engine works. That is, there must be binding somewhere to make the starter overheat and discharge the battery rapidly. Did the engine turn freely with a wrench on the crankshaft before you installed the clutch and transmission? If so, the post about a mis-aligned clutch/transmission assembly sounds like a very probable cause.




The engine did turn freely before and after the instillation of the trans.

I just pulled off the trans and it cranked a little easier, but the starter motor started spinning out when it sounded like it was almost starting.

I think maybe it worked just ok when the engine was a bit "tired" and now after the rebuild everything is just that little bit tighter the starter can't handle the load.


Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.



dennis22
Posted 8 Years Ago
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YBLOCKEREDH (2/14/2017)
I just finished a 312 engine rebuild start on stand. My starter that cranked the old motor very well barely turned my engine, drained my brand new battery very quickly, made starter hot. Pulled starter and bench tested and spun like crazy. Took it to an old starter generator shop for testing, was told it was good that my ground cable needed to be secured at the starter mount bolt not engine and a suggestion of all new cables was in order. I did all that with charged battery overnight and got a 10% improvement in cranking, would give a little cough and battery die. I was really concerned about my new cam and lifters as well at this point. Although I did not have my tranny attached as you I was going through all the steps you are. I finally said screw it and bought a $100 rebuilt starter from Napa if nothing other than to compare the new/old and put that thought to rest and move on with other remedies. I set my damper on 12 deg. btdc attached my test light to the input wire on side of dizzy and slowly turned the dizzy until the current was broken indicating my points had just started to open on #1. hit the remote starter and the new starter cranked like a maniac and the engine immediately came to life. It was quite shocking and unexpected. Be prepared to grab the throttle , I stood there dumfounded in disbelief that it started so quickly and watched as it died. End result is it runs fantastic, cam and lifters are holding their adjustment so I think all is good. Another on this blog had told me he went through the same experience with his old starter in new motor and a new starter was a game changer. I hope you get this sorted out, it is very frustrating but in most cases sometimes its the obvious especially if you had a free wheeling motor by hand with plugs out . For the sake of spending the extra on starter I would try without tranny attached as suggested first. GOOD LUCK !!!
Gary









Hi Gary,
I have just ordered a new starter, so I'll see how that goes. Hopefully that's all it was. Now that I think about it... I think that the starter was struggling before, so its due for a replacement anyway, or at least I'll keep telling myself that.


Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.



BamaBob
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Hi Dennis,
All things considered, I think you are on the right track with the new starter. That comment about the starter spinning out means the starter drive also needs replacing. That spinning out will only get worse with further use. Good luck and let us know how it works out!
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Hello Dennis,
I was looking over your earlier posts you mention grounding your engine to the engine stand, might be worth a try grounding the starter directly from starter mounting bolt to the neg. post on battery.
Gary
dennis22
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Ok, update time....

So my starter arrived today from Dennis carpenter and I installed it. I cranked the engine over with high hopes but nothing.... not even close. I was deflated to say the least😩.

I checked all the leads for continuity (although they are brand new with new plugs) put I just went into check everything mode. I pulled no1 plug and found TDC, lined up the dizzy to no1 lead and fiddled around with the wires and leads making sure everything was on tight. I tried again. Nothing.

I pulled all the plugs, cleaned them, pulled the dizzy out and re positioned it to get a bit more advance timing movement (a bolt in the cylinder head was stopping it from rotating fully)

Anyway, I found TDC lined up the no1 lead on the cap and screwed it down. Cranked it over and..... nothing!

At this stage I have given up, so I walked inside and had some lunch. After lunch with a fresh head, I thought I'll just go back over and clean up and have a fiddle around. I pulled all the leads off, pushed them back on, checked all the wires again and thought what the hell, one more try won't hurt! And BANG, she fired and roared to life, I shit myself and killed it accidently. I turned it over again and she roared right up again. Turns out I didn't clamp down the dizzy bolt and when I was fiddling with the leads It had rotated the dizzy to the max advance it could rotate.

It was running a little rough so I killed it and re-positioned the dizzy to gain more rotation on the advance and cranked it over again. I rotated the dizzy until it sounded ok and grabbed the timing light. At this stage I will admit I have never used a timing light before. The timing was 30-40 degrees advance when it sounded good. I wound it back to 10 and it started sounding a bit heavy and slow.

So in the end all it needed was more advance timing. But I thought 30-40 seemed a bit extreme. I have a new MSD ready to run distributor, a new dampener and cam from John Mummert.

Does 30-40 sound like too much to you guys?


Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.





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