Optima 6V redtop (also got a smart charger designed specifically for glass mat batteries from the on-line Optima supplier). Leave the charger connected during times when the car is not used and you needn't worry so much about regulator under-adjustment. Oversized cables, clean grounds, starter rebuilt with high-torque windings, no more starting troubles.

P. S. I tried the 6V Pertronix, but my O.D. solenoid pull-in coil draws so much juice, that when the bright headlights are on the engine misfires at higher revs, so I went back to points. Converted my Loadomatic to dual points and bought a large grab-bag of old NOS condensers and tossed all that were out of spec., so no more ignition issues.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I went to the Optima website and put in the particulars on my car.

They came up without a recommendation.

What batteries do people have in their cars (6V).

I have a '55 Fairlane 272

Regarding the old post about the 8 volt battery.  I put one in my 1955 Tbird, about 45 years ago.  Made the car start faster.  Took at date to a play 80 miles north.  Lights were really bright, angered all motorists I passed in either direction.  But I saw everything ahead of me, for miles.  We saw the play and started back.  Bing.  Out goes one of the headlights.  Wow, that wasn't expected.  I slowed down a little and kept going.  My date was concerned about it.  No sweat says I, about 30 seconds later the 2nd headlight burns out.  She became very concerned when I pointed out that it was a full moon, and I could see what was ahead.  Lots of fidgeting and exclamatory verbiage from her as we slowly pulled into a town where my grandmother lived.  I drove to her house, a town of 4,000, woke her up, borrowed her car, took my date home who wanted nothing to do anymore with me or my cars.  I got up the next day, went back to grandma's house, picked up the 55 'bird, and drove home, where I immediately pulled out the 8 volt, reinstalled the 6v, bought new light bulbs, installed same, and went into the house.  I was too tired to throw anything.

I wished it would have worked, but I figured I would start burning out more expensive equipment.  I was told that there existed a way to start on 8v and run on 6v.  I bought 4 solenoids according to instructions to set up an electric field that would accomplish that.  I assure you, it didn't work.  Maybe in the days since we landed on the moon, somebody has made a setup where it will start on 8v and run on 6v.  I haven't found it.  From then on I went with a 6v and parked on a incline so I could pop the clutch in 2nd in a pinch.  Really, figure out the 8 to 6, or always ride around with a muscular friend who likes to push cars.

I have gone with the 6v Optima.  Seems better than the other 6v batteries.

Dean, It was installed with the stock breaker points ignition to eliminate possible problems with new poorly made and prone to fail condensers. As far as extra "oomph"  goes, I don't think so. But like you, my electronic knowledge is limited. The main purpose of the installation was to ensure reliability and long life.

HERE'S THE COMPLETE SKINNY;
http://www.smokstak.com/articles/capacitors.html


"FREE SAMPLE"

Just to get clarification, Gaga.  Are you saying he installed the capacitor so then was able to successfully use the Pertronix system?

Is that what holds a little bit of extra 'oomph' so there's enough spark to hit the plugs while cranking the starter so it will successfully start?

Like I said before, my knowledge of electrics is flawed so I kinda need it spelled out.  Thanks

H
ah
Here's what I'm talking about. This one is .85 x 2.08". Put shrink wrap on leads, one goes to the points terminal and the other to ground. Should last "forever". Cost around 3 bucks.


"FREE SAMPLE"

While on the topic of condensers, here's another thought. My friend with a '41 Bu-hog (all stock orig.) was having ignition problems and tired a Pertronics unit (6v neg. grnd.) that he didn't like and went back to points. He started having condenser problems so I installed a .22 uF film type CAPACITOR  remotely next to the coil. He hasn't had any problems since. I believe that there are some of these small enough to fit inside a Y-Block distributor with a little adaptation.


"FREE SAMPLE"

The generator can easily put out enough voltage to keep an 8 volt battery charged. When I was young I worked for Sears in the Auto Service Dept. and we adjusted the regulators to keep them charged. I've even adjusted the 12 volt regulator on my 56. It's done by adjusting the spring "clips" tension and it does not take much. The most important thing is you MUST set the cover on either by holding or screwing it on after the adjustments as it does change with the cover on. An 8 volt system is just a crutch and I would not recommend it unless al else fails. I use the pertronix system and carry all the original parts just in case. I changed because of 2 condenser failures. Good Luck.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

have your 6volt reg setup to say9 volts so as to keep the 6volt at max charge. some ford tractors had 8volt system so a reg off a tractor would keep the 8volt charged.  to get a full charge the reg should be at least 2volts over the battery voltage

I read several things on-line about the 8V battery option.  Sounds like it's not really a practical long term solution.

Most seem to think a good Optima brand 6V battery and good battery/starter cables should be good enough.  My cables seem very thick and stout and based on the rest of the car, I doubt they are anything but 100% correct.  I see there are replacement cables available but wouldn't like to go through the expense and work to change it, and put the Pertronix back in if it doesn't work.

After reading I'm not the only one who could not use the 6V Pertronix

I was wondering if anyone HAS had success using one on a vintage Y-Block?