I was actually told that some conversions (like Drop-N-Stop) don't need to use proportioning valves!  I was informed that the stock rear wheel cylinders are proportioned properly for use with calipers up front and a stock Granda, dual master ???  (your choice)
 However, I decided to install a universal Willwood proportioning valve. That being said, when I went to set it up, I threaded the valve fully in & out to find the middle point. I then went to an empty parking lot to test the brakes. To my surprise, middle setting worked perfectly!  Car nose dives and stops straight without locking up the brakes under hard deceleration. Slam on the brakes and rear tires do lock up, but car stops within a reasonable distance with no pulling to either side.  

I love the smell of burning rubber in the morning!

Which prop valve did you use? I assume the 56 will not work since it's for drum brakes.

Durham Missouri

Bigwindow,  

No it doesn't matter, I used 77 Granada spindles from a wrecking yard, so that is the year I ordered for. However, all Granada or Mercury Monarch brakes are the same from 75 to 82 which I believe was the last year for the Granada (?) .   

I love the smell of burning rubber in the morning!

Does it matter what year Granada is used?

Durham Missouri

I performed the disc brake conversion almost 13 years ago on my 56 and it was one of the best things I ever did to the car! Cut my stopping distance in half, no more constant adjusting the front brakes to prevent pulling to either side and I am still running on the same pads I installed 13 years ago and they are only worn to the halfway point!

I went with Granada spindles and manual disc. Everything was a complete bolt in (including the Granada master) only modifications to the car were reaming out the lower spindle for the larger ball joint and splitting my brake lines. All parts were purchased through Napa and cost me less than $300.00 Canadian. Oh and parts are still available through Napa, over the counter! Unless you are restoring a concourse car and want to be completely factory original, throw away the drums and save you ride (and yourself) in today's traffic!  

I love the smell of burning rubber in the morning!

Might be something useful here

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/self-adjusting-brakes-for-a-54.899224/#post-10196463

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

What duel chamber master is the most direct bolt on? Also what is the proper way to adjust the push rod ? I have to go through the rear brakes and this would be a good time to switch master. I am researchin rear self adjusters. When u get the part numbers I will post for everyone.

Durham Missouri

A friend in Hawaii was running drum brakes on the front of his 70 Firebird drag car. I was surprised and had to ask why. According to him the drums are considerably lighter. That was a new one on me. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I upgraded to disc front brakes on my 57 bird. See some of my previous posts about that.. I used the Granada front spindles, etc., Granada manual disc/drum master cylinder and a Wilwood combination valve. I was a little skeptical about the lack of power brakes but they are great. Steady, straight, and easy pedal effort stops. No need for the booster in my case.

57 Black Tbird 312/auto

My 'bird has a hydroboost unit, powered off the power steering. I didn't find the manual 4 drums a problem. The front disc kit (1998?) had a stock booster (vacuum) for the front disc only. It's too much boost for me now, but the wife likes it. Need I say more?

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ