Paul, if you have any succes with the cam adjuster, please let me know...a nice write-up post with detailed description on how you made the adjustment and determined it was the appropriate position would be great, and future readers would probably appreciate it!  If I get to it, I'll do the same, but haven't had time yet.

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

Daniel: Thanks for the info re the eccentric adjusters. I've got the same problem as Nate with his 1956 brakes. The manual brakes on my 57 car are like stepping on stone. And braking is scary in city traffic. I've suspected poor quality linings, but there may be more to it than I was aware.   


Paul

For a few weeks I gave up my idea...but I've found myself daydreaming again.  I found this story today about a 51 Buick that went from 4 door to roadster.  I'm using this thread as my collection of ideas.  No matter what eventually happens, hopefully this thread will be useful for the next 15 year-old trapped in a 35 year-old body who wants to cut the roof of his 4-door car.
http://www.thanks2frank.com/featured%20cars%2051%20buick%20kevin%20mayabb.html

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

Thanks Daniel!!  That is a new path of hope for the brakes...I'd heard people talk about "cams" and "adjusters" but I was misunderstanding.... it was never as clear as you put it.  I'll check into this.

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

maybe I'll just go buy this!

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

On the brakes issue... the 55/56 Fords (as did a bunch of other 50s Fords) have an ECCENTRIC adjuster stud at the top of each backing plate. As you know, these brakes are not self-adjusting. You have to loosen the large nut at the top of the backing plate on the wheel cylinder side. Then you can turn the eccentric to make sure the top of your shoes are striking the drum at the same time as your lower part of your shoes (adjusted by the star wheel). That could be your problem there. You can also test your brakes by putting the front end up on stands and then having a friend spin a tire at a time. Press the pedal and see how far you have to go with it until you get full engagement. It isn't scientific I know but it won't hurt to see where you are at. You can do this with the rear as well but you know that most of your stopping power is going to come from the front.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

DJ - Thanks for the link....good to have confirmation that the center support between the door would be pretty wobbly....I'm assuming if the rear doors were welded shut that  would help the wobbly issue.  If I did it, I would not only weld the rear doors but also plan on additional bracing to the floor from those center supports between the doors.   I'm not as worried about stiffening the body, that I'm confident with enough welding and creative metal placement I can make the body rigid.  I'm more worried about bracing the frame, if the frame is too flimsy and transfers those forces the body, I'm worried even all my terrible welding would eventually give way.  One idea I had was to fabricate a tube-frame structure behind the rear seats tied to the frame and the body which would hopefully add support/strength to both.

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

Still want to do it? Read Daniel Jessup's post here: http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost106595.aspx"another 56 Fairlane Town Sedan project that he bought for $250 after someone had CHOPPED the entire top and left it that way. He is planning to make a roadster out of it since it is so rough. The doors had real problems staying put and the center support between the doors was very wobbly. (Big 6 ft 6 take note here.) Wayne plans to weld quite a bit of sheet metal in it and make it a 2 door, 2 seater, eliminating the rear seat." Your car may end up like this.


~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles

crown Victoria's do not have the same frame as the convertibles,but they have an extra plate welded to the underside of the frame  Carl

I know the convertible frames are X frames and also the crown victorias all have that same frame.reminds me of my older brother and his best friend in the late 60's.they took a 56 studebaker and cut the top off and made a convertible out of it. then,painted it bright red with surfer crosses on the sides.really cool,but made it kinda flimsy for obvious reasons.as I recall,they didnt drive it very long because of of the draft[my brother enlisted in the coast guard a week before his draft notice,his buddy was not so lucky,in vietnam the following year] also,they had old timers mad because of those"nazi crosses' on the doors!