|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Hey guys, it has been a while since you all helped me get my 4-door 56 Customline running.
I cannot get rid of this desire to cut the roof off of it (trust me I've tried, hard). I KNOW I KNOW....DON'T DO IT. Every internet post on this topic is filled with responses from wise, experienced people telling the 16 year old not to cut the roof off his car. I realize it is not a good idea. But this rusty car is worth little to nothing as it sits now as a historical vehicle. I will never sell it because my grandpa gave it to me. But I will also rarely use it, because frankly now that the fun of getting it running and driving is over, I find it kind of boring, it is "neat", because it is old and has a Y block, and has 3-on-the tree, but it is not cool and alluring. I have a burning desire for a convertible and a burning desire (fueled by issues of custom rod magazines) to do something radical that is my own.
I moved in to a new place with a couple pole buildings, so I have space, I have a MIG welder (only 120 V). I'm out of money (new house, and now 2 kids). Here is my question:
If someone put a gun to your head and said "take this rusty 56 Customline 4-door and make it into a roadster". What would you do? Frame reincforcments? Where? Body Reinforcements? Where?, how to handle doors, windows etc. Also all stories and anecdotes would be greatly appreciated! 
I don't need a convertible top, and I only need one door, or I could be convinced to have no doors (like a boat).
|
|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
Here is my rendering using the fabulous Microsoft Paint (aka Nate-Cad) |
|
By MoonShadow - 10 Years Ago
|
|
I don't think the frame would be strong enough. The convertibles had an X member to support the body. Chuck
|
|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Thanks Chuck...I was curious about this, so....
step 1) I'd need to reinforce the frame with an x-member. It seems my frame has some type of x-member with holes cut through it (for duals?) but I'm going from memory. The idea of cutting the roof off has been rolling around in my head for a couple years. In all that time I haven't been able to find ANYTHING on the entire web about the difference between the convertible frame and the standard frame on these cars. I'd love a photo of a regular frame and a convertible frame to compare if anyone has access.
|
|
By MoonShadow - 10 Years Ago
|
|
I haven't seen two side by side. I'm sure someone can chime in here with more details. Chuck
|
|
By dbird - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Nate,
Can't help with a picture of a convertible frame, but in my Craigslist surfing for a 312, I came across this:
|
|
By MoonShadow - 10 Years Ago
|
Although its not a Ford this is this a decent picture of a X member. Chuck
|
|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
|
thanks Don, that craigslist photo refreshed my memory and I believe that frame is exactly what i have (car is in a different storage site at the moment), the front x-member (looks more like a trans-support) with the holes cut out for exhaust routing. Are you saying your tbird has same frame? Does your tbird have any additional cross members in the frame beyond the cross member/trans-support shown in that Craigslist ad?
Thanks Moonshadow...I actually came across that photo as well, if someone could confirm there is an additional x-member (like the one in your photo) under the 56 ford convertibles, that would be interesting to know.
|
|
By 56_Fairlane - 10 Years Ago
|
Here's a comparison of the frames.
|
|
By PWH42 - 10 Years Ago
|
Yes,the convertible does have an X-frame similar to the picture.Without it,when you cut the top off,the body would distort so much you wouldn't be able to open or close the doors.There may be so flex in the car that it would almost be undriveable.
|
|
By miker - 10 Years Ago
|
The other concern is the convertibles are two doors. Not as long a span between the door openings. Someone with structural engineering skills would know more, but I'm guessing some reinforcement under the door sills will be required, even with a reinforced frame. Since the top of the door post (rear door) is not supported, door alignment may be a problem. Both front and rear.
If you weld the rear doors closed, and put reinforcement inside, might be a solution. But the door glass will have to go. Unless you're thinking of a removeable Carson top, the fronts might as well go too.
The only 4 door convertable that come to mind are the early 60's Lincoln's, with the suicide doors. I know there was a lot of insulation, big motor, etc., but dad's '62 weighed 7000 lbs. The covertibles were more. There was a lot of steel in there someplace .
|
|
By miker - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Sorry, can't find the edit delete for the double post
|
|
By Glen Henderson - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Just my thoughts, DONT'T DO IT! You have a nice driver quality car now, enjoy it and find another project. What you are thinking of doing would be a major project for a qualified fab/ body shop. I not saying it can't be done, but the amount of work and expenses would be enormous. I have seen too many projects in scrap yards and out behind barns that the owners lost interest in or discovered they were in over their heads.
|
|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Thanks DJ for the frame pic, that is very helpful for me to understand the serious frame reinforcement required for convertibles. That is a pretty serious looking x-member.
Without knowing anything else, I assumed I would need a roll-cage like structure in the trunk bracing the frame to the body to give the rear support, and then I also assumed I would need some type of very strong additional support where the rocker panels are under the doors if I hoped to have a functioning door, just like Miker says, it is such a long unsupported span. I was hoping to provide enough support with these alterations and welding the rear doors (and maybe passenger front door, I really only need a driver's door) shut to avoid needing to make a serious frame modification, but after seeing DJ's pic it seems a frame modification would likely be mandatory.
My desire to do this has been like a pendulum, but the pendulum has been on the "do it" side about 65% of the time over the last few years. The rational side of my brain knows that Glen is right, the risk of this being a dead-end project that ruins a (relatively ) functional car is very high. But I REALLY want a convertible, and a 50's convertible would be amazing...but with no funds in sight for the next 18 years or so, I will need to wait until retirement before I can afford a driver 50's convertible (by then they will likely be selling for $1,000,000 so even then I won't be able to afford them). By that time the vision of my wife and two young kids and I going for ice cream in a cool open top will have been long past.
thanks all for your thoughts, my enthusiasm has died down....for now.  |
|
By charliemccraney - 10 Years Ago
|
Buy another that is in pretty rough shape, do what you want, and you can call it a rat rod if it doesn't work out. If it does work out, you've had practice and have figured out how to do it to a better car.
|
|
By Meandean - 10 Years Ago
|
Just buy a 10-15 year old mustang convertible. Good, reliable and modern-ish and relatively cheap. No, definitely not as cool as a 50's convertible, but affordable and fun and your kids will have the memories. Keep and enjoy the 4 door and remember your grandparents or uncle (I forgot the specifics) of who previously owned the car. If you don't want 2 cars sell the one you enjoy least once you decide. Glad you decided not to butcher the 4 door.
|
|
By slumlord444 - 10 Years Ago
|
|
My T-Bird is pretty flexible with the X frame. In my opinion it would be way more time and money than it would be worth.
|
|
By Lou - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Without the X member the car would flex and crack the windsheild.
|
|
By rick55 - 10 Years Ago
|
You will also need doors off a 2dr or a convertible. You won't be able to get into the back with 4dr front doors. You will need the front seat from a 2dr/convertible
You will need the convertible window frame as it I has extra bracing for the screen.
As others have said it is a M A J O R conversion. 3 times rule. 3 times harder, 3 times longer and 3 times more expensive than you think.
Just enjoy what you have.
|
|
By snowcone - 10 Years Ago
|
There has to be plenty of cheap convertibles around rather than butchering up a classic like these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Thunderbird-Convertable-1966-ford-thunderbird-convertable-64-000-original-miles-in-storage-/331220827657?forcerrptr=true&hash=item4d1e4cbe09&item=331220827657&pt=US_Cars_Trucks
|
|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Meandean, it is funny you mention the 15 year old mustang convertibles...I've been watching 86-93 mustang convertibles on CL thinking they would serve as an antidote to my convertible need. When I was in high school and just starting to understand cars and engines, when someone told me that the 5.0 on the fender meant it had a V8 in it, I was BLOWN AWAY that a little two-door would have a V8, this was one of the defining memories for me when I started really getting in to cars and memorizing engines and transmission combos on the cars i saw on the street. So those boxy fox-bodies though 93 have some memories for me. BUT....I'd like a classy convertible someday, a slow cruiser....and the mustang is cool....but I don't quite consider it classy (might get one anyway someday!).
charliemccraney, you said "buy another one in rough shape" mine is about as rough as you can get and still drive it, I can see though both driver's floorboards, interior is falling apart. The pics make it look much nicer than it is. Rick55 - I figured the kids could jump into the back seats so no need for rear seat access from the door...but all this aside......I'll leave it a 4-door.
|
|
By MoonShadow - 10 Years Ago
|
|
All that is fixable. You can get floor pans to put in and complete seat covers in the Ford aftermarket. It may not be a flashy car but it is 58 years old! Chuck
|
|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
Thanks Chuck, yes seat covers and floors can be fixed, if I'm so moved some day....but I need a fix for my convertible lust! I see you have a cool roadster in your signature, you've got your roof-less fix taken care of.
I had a brief relationship with a 69 Mercury Marquis convertible in high school...it only ran for a few days...but it was amazing, I loved it being six and half feet tall, the big boat was just by size...it was towed while I was away at college for being parked illegally in the winter. I had no money so I gave it to the tow company to cover the towing costs and a few extra bucks to pay the pile or parking tickets. Boy i wish I could undo that decision. But back then I had other priorities.
Good things come to those who wait. I will wait, save up, and some day have my convertible fix fixed.
|
|
By Vic Correnti - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Nate, I know that this post will not be popular, but this is my opinion.
I am all for making a car more usable, more fun to drive and doing it. If a convertible from a old 4 door is what it takes to make that happen get the sawzall out and get to driving it before the snow flies. I met a guy a couple of months ago who has two T-birds as I do. I asked him if he drives them much his answer to me was he polishes them and trailers them to shows. Now, they are too nice to drive, I drive mine as much as possible, it will never will be a show car. Who is enjoying their cars more? There is some pristine 4 doors out there but yours is not and probably never will be. There is nothing better then hearing the Y-block exhaust from a convertible. I would tie the top of the door posts horizontally and start cutting. If then the doors do not open (which I doubt) the fix would be to add gussets at the door posts inside the car forward and rearward to the frame. Upholstery could cover a lot of unwanted issues. I am about 60 miles south of you if I can be of any assistance.
|
|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Vic, those are dangerous words of encouragement! The little ember of imagination and creativity that was about flicker out, now has returned to a continuous warm glow. What do you think about the windshield cracking? This was the most horrific of the potential negative outcomes listed so far.
I think I need to bring the car from storage to her new home (my new place has two pole sheds, one with a heated shop  !) so I can drive her more often and sit and stare at her and look more closely at the details. This alone will take a month or two to accomplish and should give me plenty of time to contemplate. I am allured by the risk in a sinister way, and the challenge to make it work. So much of my life right now with a young family and 9-5 job is mundane and without adventure, this could give me back my youthful feeling of adventure and a project to obsess over.
If everything fails and the car is destroyed, my low-mileage Y-block drive train becomes the centerpiece in my design for a future hot rod. |
|
By charliemccraney - 10 Years Ago
|
Remove the windshield, too. Wear goggles. And you won't have to stop to eat. You'll have a steady supply of protein.
|
|
By slick56 - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Big6ft6 (6/12/2014)
What do you think about the windshield cracking? This was the most horrific of the potential negative outcomes listed so far.
If you are going to do this, i would consider a hardtop Victoria windscreen, they are two inches lower.
|
|
By PF Arcand - 10 Years Ago
|
As has been pointed out, the car will need substantial reinforcements with the roof removed. Remember, Sunliners were 2 drs. & had a folding top to boot.. + if you ever have to sell it, it's likely next to worthless.. As discussed, buy an older Mustang convertible..save a nice old 4 dr.
|
|
By Brian_B - 10 Years Ago
|
As far is this gentleman cutting the roof off his..that is his choice.
I cannot imagine chopping up something that came from my grandfather. No..it may not have much monetary value. It has sentimental value. Unless you are highly dedicated, have knowledge, skills, tools, equipment, it may very well end up in a scrap yard or ebay like so many other projects (especially chopped tops) that are never finished and then you do not have your grandfather's car.
Both of my grandfather's passed when I was just a toddler. I do not even remember them. I just could not get rid of something that was theirs.
I would get it safe, road worthy, reliable, and drive the wheels off it all the time. make it a cruiser...enjoy the ride. Every time you drive it (with your family?) you will relive those memories of your grandfather. I wish I were that lucky.
|
|
By rgrove - 10 Years Ago
|
How about something a little less drastic? Cut a massive hole in the roof, basically leaving only an inch or 2 around the edge, reinforce that with some steel, and even make a roll up canvas top to snap in in case it rains? Would need less reinforcement, still gets an open air feeling (great view for the kids in the back!) and cheap....
Just a thought. (And probably not a popular one at that!)
|
|
By LordMrFord - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Chopped, doorless hacksaw-skyliner bathtub would be nice in matt colour.
|
|
By Vic Correnti - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Nate, the 56 has a real frame and is not like the of the car as cars of today. I did a little googling and not one of the cars I read about that have a box frame that were converted have had any windshield issues. And most no X frame. A lot of convertibles might see some flex when jacked up to change a tire even with the beefed up stock X frame convertible frames. If it is going to be a driver I doubt you will see anything going wrong except a rain drop or two. As for cheap mustang convertibles without a frame to start with I would put my money in the 56 as being a stronger convertible. Here in the rust belt you know what I am talking about. I could tell you about the 49 or 50ish Cheby that a friend of mine and me when we were about 14 we cut the top off with a hatchet and hand hack saw then drove it around a field making ramps from dirt to see if we could get it on two wheels like they did at the Rockford speedway. No sissy seat belts or alcohol back then either. As you can tell I am not a purist in any sense of the word, I do respect cars that are true rare collectible cars being trailer queens but I think I am realistic. If my bird was a "E or F" code maybe I would have thought different about the way it has progressed for the 50 years that I have owned it, but buying it when I was 16 and driving it back then in the snow it was transportation and a cool car.
|
|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Brian B, I am a very lucky young man. I'm 35 years old and my grandfather is still with me and of sound mind (I had breakfast with him this morning in fact!). I understand your sentimentality because my relationship with my grandfather is one of my most prized possessions realizing few people ever get to experience an adult relationship with a grandparent. This car was never his (he never drove it) he purchased it for my aunt to use for college in the 60's and my uncle drove it for a time in high school in the 70's (hence the terrible rust). Although I'm happy my grandpa gave me the car, he did not give it to me to preserve or because it had great sentimental meaning. He simply wanted it out of his shed as he was considering selling his farm. He tried selling it and nobody wanted the rusty four door so he gave it to me to get rid of it since he knew I liked cars.
I don't have tremendous autobody experience, but I'm just confident enough to want to get into some trouble, especially now that I have room if the project ends up dormant for years. Here is some practice body work I did on an old chevy. |
|
By glrbird - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Nate
I am with Vic, its your car, make it enjoyable. A few years back on "overhaulin" they took a 53-54 ford 4 door and made it a convert, they did use hard top doors (2) and had a donor car but I dont remember how much frame work they did. Might look for the episode for reference.
|
|
By glrbird - 10 Years Ago
|
|
 
This started life as a 4 door, the episode is "overhaulin sema radical roadster" Could not find it for free, but it is for sale on Amazon.
|
|
By MoonShadow - 10 Years Ago
|
|
It would be interesting to see what frame mods were made. Being for SEMA you would think they made it safe. Chuck
|
|
By carl - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Put a power sun roof in it then you will have a mini convertible without all of the work LOL Carl
|
|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
|
WOW!!! WOW WOW....how beautiful. I love what they did with the windshield, looks terrific. My willingness to forgo doors should take a good chunk of the work out of it. I will definitely look for the episode, I'm very curious about that windshield (and of course the frame mods required). THANKS GARY so much for sharing, I now have new dream material
|
|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
I now ee the 54 had a straight windshield....I thought that was a custom modification 
|
|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Well, I just watched the episode (Season 5 episode 7 $1.99 on Amazon don't tell my boss I'm at work) and if they reinforced the frame they sure didn't show it or talk about it. They mentioned reinforcing the body and talked about how important the roof was to structural integrity, so possibly they did enough body mods to make the body stiff enough, but they did not elaborate any more on this and I couldn't see any major/obvious body bracing with the shots in the episode?? they did tack weld a square tube structure inside the body of the car while they made all the modifications, but this was eventually removed. Also they stretched the frame on this car and they did tack-weld square tubing across the frame during the frame modifications to maintain squareness, but they cut that tubing off later. Unfortunately they did not show them lowering the body on the chassis, that would've given a clear shot of any frame mods.
|
|
By OZYRAY - 10 Years Ago
|
|
I just saw this thread and boy did it bring back memories... here in Australia we originally never had anything but sedans and utes. Back in the early seventies (I was 17 years old) a good mate of mine did exactly what you are describing .. cut the roof right off that sucker! welded the back doors shut.. tube grille and some custom tail lights and made a convertible top - that didnt get used much because we had so much fun with the roof off .. I can tell you for sure there were no cracked windsceens or any other problems, that car had a hot y block for its day and then a 390, believe me it was put to the test ... do it..
|
|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Thanks OZYRAY! That is exactly the kind of anecdotal evidence I was hoping to dredge up!! Did you guys do any body bracing other than welding the rear doors shut? Where did you weld, just at the seams on the exterior? Were the door gaps tight enough that you were able to weld that gap without adding sheet metal? Any tips for the welding part? Thanks!!
|
|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Just now I noticed this car on my local craigslist. 56 Chevy 4-door - roof cut off. He even posted a pic of the brace he put on the b-piller. He left 4 operating doors (which I have no interest it). ($5,800 asking price)
|
|
By slick56 - 10 Years Ago
|
|
If you weld the back doors shut you wont need the brace.
Not too keen on the flowery door trims...
Nate, how are you managing to upload pics?
|
|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Hey Slick, I used picturetrail.com free hosting site, you upload a photo, and then they provide "image urls" that you can post into forums. It is very easy to do. The pictures live on the picturetrail website and what I paste into my post are simply links to those pics (with html code that tells the forum software to show the picture), unfortunately if the pictretrail website ever goes away these pics won't show up on here anymore.
|
|
By 56_Fairlane - 10 Years Ago
|
Once you cut the top off, you'll never really be able to leave it outdoors all the time. Once the top is cut off, you'll be lucky if anyone will want to buy it if you ever decide to sell it. You've mentioned rust in the car, you may not know the real extent of it until you start cutting. I feel you'll have a pile of scrap that no one but a salvage yard will want after you start cutting into it.
I suggest you just get it reliable enough to be a daily driver and enjoy it like it is. These are wonderful cars to just drive and it's amazing how solid they feel going down the road.
|
|
By slick56 - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Big6ft6 (6/20/2014)
Hey Slick, I used picturetrail.com free hosting site, you upload a photo, and then they provide "image urls" that you can post into forums. It is very easy to do. The pictures live on the picturetrail website and what I paste into my post are simply links to those pics (with html code that tells the forum software to show the picture), unfortunately if the pictretrail website ever goes away these pics won't show up on here anymore.
Thanks Nate, will give it a try.
|
|
By PF Arcand - 10 Years Ago
|
Ford didn't build any 4 Dr convertibles, in part likely because of chassis concerns. Even the 56 & 57 4 Dr hardtops had a large "B" pillar stiffener. If you do it the car will be rendered worthless...
|
|
By Doug T - 10 Years Ago
|
Well this topic is a bit off the wall and seems to have died out for a while, but I think it is your car, do what you want with it. But you do want it to be more or less safe and drive-able so some amount of frame stiffness will be needed. Before even starting I would get the car up off the ground and check the frame with the sharp end of a body hammer. Tap hard at every place you can reach, If you can punch holes anywhere in it then I wouldn't go further. If the frame is sound then I would gusset it along the bottom with 1 1/2" X 1/8" angle on both sides of both rails. from as far forward as possible to at least the front spring bolt of the rear springs. Putting an X member in sounds like more work than you are up to. Then I would brace the "B" pillar from side to side and also with diagonal braces recognizing that the seat has to move back. Something like heavy 1 1/2" conduit to do this would work. If you don't want the rear doors to open then weld a piece of sheet metal along the back edge on the inside so that you don't make even more body work. If the rear doors are immobilized the car would be a stiffer. Then cut the roof off the car and cut the doors down. I would take the glass out also since it is surprisingly heavy. Make sure you have covered storage for it when finished, sitting on wet seats isn't nice.
Of course you could buy the scrub and put a Y block into it. BTW if the scrub sold than it is likely that a Ford would sell also, so it might not be completely worthless.
|
|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
Thanks Doug...great thoughts and I appreciate your recommendations for dimensions of support material....your idea for testing for soft spots in the frame is a valuable tip. I likely would've just visually inspected for obvious rust-through. If I were to do this I would definitely weld the rear doors, I have no interest in a 4-door open-top car (as much as I appreciate Lincoln's version). I would remove the side window glass for sure....(no need for it). I have two pole sheds with cement floors that are just waiting for me to fill them...so weather/storage are not an issue.
Just today I found this beautiful green 71 Cougar convertible nearby....$6,000. No work needed, ready to go.....that is a low enough price to at least make me pause on my crazy ideas. I've lived my life so far without taking on any loans other than for our house mortgage. I don't have the cash to buy the cougar....but I know I could get a loan for it....part of me thinks I deserve it after making it to my 35th birthday without a car loan. The smarter part of me says don't be dumb...these are all toys and luxuries not worth starting bad debt habits over.
|
|
By snowcone - 10 Years Ago
|
I think I might have said about a hundred posts ago to just go and get a cheap convertible instead of spending literally what could be come months of cutting, chopping and butchering.
With the Cougar you have a safe and legal car that is ready to drive with the top down.
Without knowing your financial situtation it is difficult to make recommendations, but $6k is not a lot of money to throw at something if you really want it.
Remember, you only live once.
|
|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
|
C'mon Gary...."you only live once"..."not a lot of money if you really want it" !! You sound like the the devil I'm trying to ignore on my left shoulder right now .....unfortunately the devil is winning....I set up a time to go look at the cougar this weekend. It wasn't that I disagreed with your advice 100 posts ago Gary...just have no cash...and no interesting drop-tops within' spiting distance of my budget....technically I can't afford this cougar...but I'm a merc guy...and I like green....and well...."you only live once" right? !
|
|
By snowcone - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Go on, do it.
You can always go without something else like food or electricity for while as long as you have a nice rig in the shed to look
|
|
By 56_Fairlane - 10 Years Ago
|
Yeah, electricity is overrated anyway and you really only need to eat once for the rest of your life. 
|
|
By PF Arcand - 10 Years Ago
|
If the Cougar is as anywhere near as good as it looks in the photo, it's likely a deal at $6 thousand. What can you get these days for that kind of money?..
|
|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
|
When things look too good to be true, they usually are. The cougar was rough, it looked pretty good from 10 feet, but was a loose car. (and I was disappointed in the 70's interior..just not a fan) The car was repainted in the early 80's and I could tell that a significant portion of the lower rear quarters were made of bondo, some rust color was seeping out of some tiny cracks in the body work which hinted at what was underneath. Also inside the trunk someone had painted over rust in the wheel well area with POR-15. When the owner told me he'd had the floor pans replaced a few years ago, I knew this was a rusty car at heart. Also lots of loose things, side mirror was falling off, console shifter was very loose (shifter slipped into 2nd on heavy acceleration). The bottom of the car was heavily coated in undercoating...so who knows what is really there. It may be worth $6k, but not worth it to me. It ran and drove pretty good...it was fun...and driving it confirmed for me that convertibles are awesome and I will need one some day (soon?).
|
|
By montana ford man - 10 Years Ago
|
I know the convertible frames are X frames and also the crown victorias all have that same frame.reminds me of my older brother and his best friend in the late 60's.they took a 56 studebaker and cut the top off and made a convertible out of it. then,painted it bright red with surfer crosses on the sides.really cool,but made it kinda flimsy for obvious reasons.as I recall,they didnt drive it very long because of of the draft[my brother enlisted in the coast guard a week before his draft notice,his buddy was not so lucky,in vietnam the following year] also,they had old timers mad because of those"nazi crosses' on the doors!
|
|
By carl - 10 Years Ago
|
|
montana ford man (7/26/2014)
I know the convertible frames are X frames and also the crown victorias all have that same frame.reminds me of my older brother and his best friend in the late 60's.they took a 56 studebaker and cut the top off and made a convertible out of it. then,painted it bright red with surfer crosses on the sides.really cool,but made it kinda flimsy for obvious reasons.as I recall,they didnt drive it very long because of of the draft[my brother enlisted in the coast guard a week before his draft notice,his buddy was not so lucky,in vietnam the following year] also,they had old timers mad because of those"nazi crosses' on the doors!
crown Victoria's do not have the same frame as the convertibles,but they have an extra plate welded to the underside of the frame Carl
|
|
By 56_Fairlane - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Still want to do it? Read Daniel Jessup's post here: http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost106595.aspx
"another 56 Fairlane Town Sedan project that he bought for $250 after someone had CHOPPED the entire top and left it that way. He is planning to make a roadster out of it since it is so rough. The doors had real problems staying put and the center support between the doors was very wobbly. (Big 6 ft 6 take note here.) Wayne plans to weld quite a bit of sheet metal in it and make it a 2 door, 2 seater, eliminating the rear seat."
Your car may end up like this.
|
|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
|
DJ - Thanks for the link....good to have confirmation that the center support between the door would be pretty wobbly....I'm assuming if the rear doors were welded shut that would help the wobbly issue. If I did it, I would not only weld the rear doors but also plan on additional bracing to the floor from those center supports between the doors. I'm not as worried about stiffening the body, that I'm confident with enough welding and creative metal placement I can make the body rigid. I'm more worried about bracing the frame, if the frame is too flimsy and transfers those forces the body, I'm worried even all my terrible welding would eventually give way. One idea I had was to fabricate a tube-frame structure behind the rear seats tied to the frame and the body which would hopefully add support/strength to both.
I have to figure out my brake issue first. Drove a buddies 65 impala with all manual drums...way better than my 56 ford, almost like a modern car. I'd say the Ford takes 3-4 times the pedal effort. Now that I've driven a properly set-up manual drum brake car I know mine needs help. Everything is new and the shoes are in the correct position, pedal is firm..just takes a lot of force to stop...I've got to figure this out before anything else, because it detracts significantly from enjoyment (and safety) of driving.
|
|
By Daniel Jessup - 10 Years Ago
|
|
On the brakes issue... the 55/56 Fords (as did a bunch of other 50s Fords) have an ECCENTRIC adjuster stud at the top of each backing plate. As you know, these brakes are not self-adjusting. You have to loosen the large nut at the top of the backing plate on the wheel cylinder side. Then you can turn the eccentric to make sure the top of your shoes are striking the drum at the same time as your lower part of your shoes (adjusted by the star wheel). That could be your problem there.
You can also test your brakes by putting the front end up on stands and then having a friend spin a tire at a time. Press the pedal and see how far you have to go with it until you get full engagement. It isn't scientific I know but it won't hurt to see where you are at. You can do this with the rear as well but you know that most of your stopping power is going to come from the front.
|
|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
maybe I'll just go buy this! I have up for sale a 1970 307 V8 Chevelle Malibu. This car is in decent shape and is a really good runner. It has had a recent tune up that involved replacing the spark plugs, new radiator, oil change and cleaning and sealing of the gas tank. This car has also had new coil springs put on in the back. This car was a hard top that someone cut the top off of. So it currently does not have a roof. Whoever chopped the top did what I would call a good job, as they left plenty of metal to put a new roof on, and a new roof is a fairly easy to find part that is also not overly expensive. This would be a really cool father son project or you could simply drive it as is and have a fun sunday cruiser. Also, you could chop it further and make a really cool custom. This car was also a four door that was converted into a two door, but the driver's side door is also fixed shut so I would call it a straight up one door. As for rust, the body panels have been patched in and primed, they could use a little finish work to be perfect but look pretty good. The frame and floors seem solid enough. This car really turns heads and gets lots of thumbs up. This would be a great project for anyone who wants a cool low budget Chevelle. Email me with your phone number and any questions you may have and I'll get back to you as soon as I can. $2000 obo Thanks, Peter
Also I might be interested in trading for a running vehicle, such as a truck, 4x4, or vw bug or van, I'm open to a lot of cars, let me know what you have. |
|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Thanks Daniel!! That is a new path of hope for the brakes...I'd heard people talk about "cams" and "adjusters" but I was misunderstanding.... it was never as clear as you put it. I'll check into this.
|
|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
For a few weeks I gave up my idea...but I've found myself daydreaming again. I found this story today about a 51 Buick that went from 4 door to roadster. I'm using this thread as my collection of ideas. No matter what eventually happens, hopefully this thread will be useful for the next 15 year-old trapped in a 35 year-old body who wants to cut the roof of his 4-door car.
http://www.thanks2frank.com/featured%20cars%2051%20buick%20kevin%20mayabb.html
|
|
By PF Arcand - 10 Years Ago
|
Daniel: Thanks for the info re the eccentric adjusters. I've got the same problem as Nate with his 1956 brakes. The manual brakes on my 57 car are like stepping on stone. And braking is scary in city traffic. I've suspected poor quality linings, but there may be more to it than I was aware.
|
|
By Big6ft6 - 10 Years Ago
|
|
Paul, if you have any succes with the cam adjuster, please let me know...a nice write-up post with detailed description on how you made the adjustment and determined it was the appropriate position would be great, and future readers would probably appreciate it! If I get to it, I'll do the same, but haven't had time yet.
|